No name user

There is a difference between a car being "fast" and a car being "nimble". Where there is pretty much no limit on power (as in the open A class) then power will win out.

Key point is that the terms fast and nimble refer to different things in my book, what is in your book is anyone's guess Crunchy.

Last i checked a fast is reflected in lap times is it not? And dont they quote 0-60 these days in reflection to how it goes? Not too many quote corner G's that's reflective in many things including how big the drivers balls are.

Regardless nimble, heavy, light, power etc laps time reflect what your dealing with

Try youtube very handy

Okie dokie, if you have brave pills ill take you for a ride never said mine had stock suspension its far from it

Find a donor car and retain the stock ecu, i personally would go after market the fly by wire deal is rubbish

Done some from a friend in Finland, not hard to do and done worse the motor price is tad more than a common v12

Im waiting for my V10 to turn up for a E36

oh dear...

Sorry Murch. I have a very light E34. It is not nimble compared to cars that are traditionally considered nimble. The E34 is only 100kg heavier than my E30 race car yet it feels like it is 300kgs heavier. However it is much quicker than the E30 even without the turbo.

First off you havent run it YET as a turbo car second Dan i have a first name, so sorry but from whats said above power to weight has nothing to do with it so your screwed after all your hard work

BHP does not have any effect on what I would term nimble, acceleration yes, but does not change second moment of inertia, or "turn in".

I would always associate nimble with how quickly the car can change direction (in a controlled way), rather then how fast it can accelerate.

And i guess you failed to read the bit about how much weight the car has lost, selective reading me thinks and last i checked most tracks have some sort of straight and last i checked the quicker you can get from point to point seems to reflect lap times......so Google told me

lol

I'll pass your thoughts on to Dan Slater

I have driven three or four very nice e 34s and I would hesitate a. 1600 or 1700 kg medium sized car as nimble,a mini is nimble,an e 30 may be nimble e 34 not,imho

LOL

Your right my e34 is down to 1370kg and 500hp wheel, na not very nimble

i dont think an e34 can be considered,nimble

i beg to differ

I have 7 to rego so there's some saving still don't care too much regardless enjoy my toys, you pay to play

Running sock filter per trumpet, ive converted the stock ecu to speed density so no need for airbox or AFM thankfully

Touch of bling for the quads

Youll get away with stock injectors to 6psi , uses a Apexi S AFC for the MAF to add a bit more control and keep cost down.

Mines done 260,000km on stock head gasket running 11.8psi at 500hp, its all about control that makes them live

Does it have boost yet?

Only when my right foot decides its the right time

Took mine of of the shed and drove it !

used a 260 box behind my M50 with a auto 4.1 diff

sits on 3200 at 100kph not a big deal since i run it to 8500, youll be hard pressed to find all the bits here however Ebay england is pretty easy

legend

nope i had it right as per the ecu instructions , to change a reluctor signal to square wave requires a converter to which the sprint 500 doesn't do they do however allow you to select inductive or hall effect IF they were the same then it wouldn't have selection for.

And non of this is helping the poster in anyway he hasn't got a ecu to start with let alone needing to know the finer details, if at all they become a issue so rather than trying to show how big your wang is let the guy progress

"Reluctance" is a characteristic of some electric motors and magnetic circuits , the name "reluctor" provides some insight in to what the device actually is.

It is an electro-magnetic inductive device.

If we know and understand what the device actually is we can model and apply it effectively.

Your sort of making it tad more complicated dude, in ref to using them on the Haltech ecu a clamp is required based on their high output voltage lets not complicate life for the guy im sure he'll get the idea in due course

Reluctors which is a seriously out of date term (inductive devices) like capacitive devices are designed to be connected into a loaded circuit to produce an appropriate signal shape.

Correct loading is used to shape an output signal the rise time . It's not just about the voltage , its about the noise, the threshold and the rise time of the signal , whether it triggers on the positive going or the negative , all of these and numerous other factors all come into play.

Loading of the device controls the resonant "Q" and makes the output more consistent - creating the correct circuit Q is a science like a lot of things in tuning - piecing them all together is skill and experience.

Messing with them without the science is exactly that, just messing around- If you understand the science you have a better chance of understanding the process.

No disrespect to the crunch but black arts are practiced by those who know some of the science and wing certain parts.

Gurus are people who know all the science and work within their expertise.

Ah please correct me but the sensor on a M20 crank is called a reluctor pickup

Heard of both they just intercept the load signal, Unichip is sold by licence for each unit ( last i checked )

All i do is forced induction and if you want good control over the big bang theory then full stand alone ecu is best, people get scared of what is real a black art for tuning.

Thats not putting you off, each tuner has his strong areas thus they choose to stick to one brand of car or ecu, if you really want to learn go Haltech even the entry level unit the Sprint 500 ( i run one in my E36 turbo ) great unit great price and lots of back up, very easy platform to work with it also decodes the 60-2 BMW trigger which very few can.

Main issue is the reluctor voltage output can be as high as 30v which is a pain for the ecu thankfully Haltech allow you to clamp the signal, i found 1.7v works a treat, you can also code in the stock BMW sensors and calibrate or pick one from the menu and use other brands already supported, i tune in VE not many can but im sure youll learn much.

Word of advise, regardless what certain tuning schools tell you tuning is a black art yes you can do certain calc to a certain deg but if the calculator says you can run x amount of fuel and x amount of timing and the car says no!

Then the motor decides what your going to get not the calculator no matter how smart the tuner thinks he is or that Big Bang theory will soon be a reality, some of these so called tuners on line are giving people a loaded gun they have no idea what your dealing with and itll end in tears.

Go for it