jochen

Here's a video showing the extent of the damage NOTE: the repair work done by this guy is NOT the approved method - he just welds the cracks and fits plates. The approved method is filling the chassis cavity with expanding aerospace foam to prevent the metal flexing NOTE: the problem is worse in cars with stiff sports suspension, in diesel cars with high torque motors, and in cars that are driven hard (lots of high rev fast clutch drops). All these things mean the motor torque causes more body flex as the suspension cannot absorb as much of the loads. The body flex results in the metal fatigue and the subframe mount failure. I've read the repair instructions once... a BIG job... BMW recommend removing ALL active airbag components and ALL control units prior to doing any welding on the vehicle frame. That way you assure no electronics are damaged by the welding currents. Of course, you must remove the exhaust system, the rear axle assembly, and the fuel tank, as well as strip the boot of everything. Afterwards, rustproofing, underbody sealant, paint and wheel alignment is required. My friend had his M3 subframe repaired by BMW in Australia and sent me the photos - a lot of dismantling was done to the car!! He was lucky in that his got done by BMW under warranty, at no cost, but he said it was about ä AUD 12,000 of work... !!

633 = preparation for phone, but no phone fitted - eg: wiring and microphone in place. 638 = phone fitted and working 644 = ULF, which you know about

No. The ability to reprogram the radio started in vehicles made in September 2009 and newer Your 1999 E39 has the old-generation non-reprogrammable radio in it. To make the radio work in NZ, simply exchange the Japanese radio module with the European equivalent radio module. This is easy and relatively cheap to do, on ebay Germany the radio modules sometimes sell for as little as <$100 NZD PS: M means "Memory" PPS: Service mode on the 4:3 monitor and 16:9 monitor is activated with the SELECT button PPPS: Jap radios of the age of your car do not have a Service Mode

Further to my reply: The nav/TV system needs the following key components to work: Screen (On-board monitor) On-Board Monitor Radio Module (BM24, BM53, etc) Either a Nav computer, OR a TV tuner, OR both Make sure you know if you have a old-gen pre Sept 2001 car, because if fitting a new-gen radio to an old-gen car, then you'll need to replace the antenna amplifier as well. And note the difference in radio connectors: flat-pin = new-gen, round pin = old gen As for wiring loom, it is a zillion times easier to use the retrofit wiring loom, and that is well worth spending the money on. They're often for sale on ebay Germany... Heres the extra cable to make TV AND nav work: http://cgi.ebay.de/BMW-Nachruest-Kabelbaum...#ht_2289wt_1143 There's a few nav cable looms available too - search for BMW navi kabelbaum - but note that fitting a standard loom instead of the retrofit loom is MUCH more work and a HUGE amount of disassembly required. Read the retrofit instructions and note the work needed for a standard retrofit. Then imagine what you would have to do if you have to run new speaker wires to all speakers as well.... (depending on what amplifier you have)

Excellent, great upgrade choice Your googling was rather unsuccessful - there is MUCH better info than what you have available... No need, it all exists in the BMW retrofit instructions You have PM :-)

It's always worth it if you want to do it. Having the wiring diagrams in front of me let's compare the two modules: Old = Multi Function Clock, 6113.2 -> I'll call this CLK New = On Board Display, 6214.0 -> I'll call this OBD Power & Illumination connections Pin 1 = BRAKE-TEST signal (connect to gnd when brake pressed) = only OBD Pin 2 = BRAKE signal from brake pedal = same for CLK & OBD Pin 3 = LAC lamp activation check (?) = same for CLK & OBD Pin 4 = DATA = data signal = same for CLK & OBD Pin 5 = CLK = clock signal = same for CLK & OBD Pin 6 = CHECK licght connection = same for CLK & OBD Pin 8 = Power in START = same for CLK & OBD Pin 9 = Power in Run & Start from F23 = same for CLK & OBD Pin 10 = Chime Module 1 = only CLK Pin 11 = Chime Module 2 = only CLK Pin 12 = Outside air temperature sensor = only CLK Pin 13 = Speed signal from instrument cluster = only CLK Pin 14 = Power in Acc, Run & Start = same for CLK & OBD Pin 15 = Data signal from instrument cluster = only CLK Pin 16 = Illumination from Light Switch = same for CLK & OBD Pin 17 = Ground = same for CLK & OBD Pin 18 = permanent power from F31 = same for CLK & OBD So it looks like the Multi-Function Clock is the more complex of the two The connectors are identical, so simply plug the new unit in Then look at the wires and see what you are missing. My guess is: 1. Outside air temp sensor - so add the sensor and the one wire to make it work. 2. Brake Test signal - you may need a different brake switch for this 3. Data and speed from instrument cluster - add these wires 4. Chime - add these wires, and the chime module if not fitted So the only things that won't work immediately are clock, chime, speed and data from instrument cluster everything else will work.

PS: one key limitation: TV when moving starts to break up at 180kmph, so that may limit its use for some peorple...

With analog TV switchoff around the corner, it's time to start hunting for those digital TV tuners to fit to your BMW TV system This tuner looks like it supports all the right standards: http://www.resundz.com/sdp/303652/4/pd-113..._Dual_Tune.html Someone get one and try it...

It's the identical system to NZ-new, just inser the NZ map disc. Costs: 2x the UK price for a map disc from the dealer. UK map = all of Europe NZ map = just NZ, but double the price... go figure...

I've done a few... it works fine The ones I've done are the USA TCUs, a few happy campers there now (enabled VR, set a few options and settings) Not 100% functional according to BMW, because some functions like making the Bluetooth Name match the car I cannot do But if you can live with "BMW" as the Bluetooth name then it works fine :-)

Why don't you fix the fault instead of trying to hide the warning messages? "The problem is solved" No it is not. it is simply masked, but not solved. Imagine on a Jumbo Jet: "Captain, the Number 1 is on fire" "That's OK CoPilot, just take the bulb out of the warning light"

Buy a new SIM card, comes in large and small formats

Hi, Take the above as a warning sign of no maintenance and go over the rest of the car with a fine tooth comb A properly maintained car never gets to a state where the plugs are shot - they get religiously replaced well (years) before they get to that point. I have never suffered clogged plugs unless I have air-fuel mixture problems (which I did have on an old VW). As a start, easy DIY things are: 1. Air filter (you have 3: engine, cabin left and cabin right) I bet the cabin air filters are clogged! New cabin filters are cheap and make a world of difference to the airflow and smell of the cabin 2. ICV - if the M62 and not M62TU engine, then check and clean the ICV (idle control valve). Makes big difference to idle performance and reliability under changing idle load Go through the rest of the car - body, interior - and check it and fix all the niggly little broken bits. Then enjoy the car! Tip: on my 540i when running perfectly, it used 18 to 20 L/100km around Akld city (start-stop), and 10 to 11 L/100km on a long trip Akld-Rotovegas. As a mix it was around 16L/100km Driving on the motorway, at 100kmph, on a flat road, I could use as little as 9.7L/100km

Why don't you look it up in the WDS? It's all online... http://spaghetticoder.org/bmw/wds/ All wire colours and wire functions are there... PS: use IE otherwise you canot zoom on the wiring diagrams

Looking at the existing amp, you have the following options: 1. Line level Inputs to factory amp. You have full-range 4-channels to choose from (FR, FL, RR, RL) Be aware that this is a twisted pair balanced line, but connecting RCA to it is normally fine. In some cases you can cause ground loops, so you may need to isolate the ground. 2. Speaker level outputs from factory amp The factory amp is a 10-channel amp driving 10 speakers You would likely connect to the rear woofer outputs. Bear in mind that all speaker outputs are BTL, so d not connect any side of any speaker to ground.

Na, it was written by BMW... I just read it:-)

Maybe I should have rephrased my statement: The nav system is NOT a BMW nav system It is a FORD nav system, therefore questions re the FORD system should be asked on a FORD forum PS: fwiw: I think the Ford nav system was made by DENSO. (BMW was made by Philips/VDO/Siemens)

Your Range Rover was made by Ford, not BMW. You may need to ask on some Ford forums for assistance.

A BMW E39 is not "an ordinary car" A BMW is not a "SuperCheap Auto" Let those two statements influence you on what you do....

Your performance issues are caused by a fault with the engine - get that fixed! You may have clogged catalytic converters, this will rob a lot of power and cause O2 problems with the engine If one is clogged, replace both at the same time. A scan will reveal the cause My 540i would leave everything for dust and would attack any hill at >100kmph with power to spare So forget modifying the exhaust - fix the problem with the engine first.

There's always a little locking tab, you have to look inside the pin to see the tab. Use a jewellers screwdriver of the smallest size to insert and depress the tab Normally very simple....

OEM BMW Radio CD with softkeys = uses ibus CD changer Like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-BUSINES...#ht_4379wt_1165

Depends, the CP600BMW replaces the ibus controlled CD changer If your headunit is the later model then you can use the CP600BMW. But the ibus headunits were in I think only the last year of production of the E34 The E34 uses a standard DIN sized headunit. Wow, you expect forum members to be able to advise on marketing strategy for Clarion, Alpine, Sony, Kenwood, and all the other head unit manufacturers and importers??? If you want one, yes. Becker make some nice units Deciding factor will be the availability of maps for New Zealand.

Also don't recommend the OEM BMW nav for your E34, because: a) it is very old. In 1994, 15 years ago, nav systems were just being fitted to cars. They were very slow compared to todays systems the optional nav for the E34 is rare and hard to find I would recommend a standard head unit that fits in the slot. Almost every aftermarket brand (Sony Pioneer etc) have units with iPod support, USB connectors, or Aux In connectors. It'll come doen to personal preference with the looks etc. Many come with bluetooth for phone pairing. For the nav, get an external device like a TomTom (imho the best). Then you have also the choice of bluetooth phone connection to the TomTom - although this requires the nav to be there and turned on.

Assuming you are referring to a 06/2003 E65 745i Saloon N62 Europe Right hand drive Automatic Here's the antenna tuner: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=65&fg=30 Note the same part numbers in use for the different markets, the antenna tuner varies only in how it is programmed. Therefore, look at the part number of the tunr in your car to be 100% certain you get the same type. Then, get it from a car from the same market as what you want eg: Singapore, UK, Europe, Philippines, Malaysia etc The other way to do this, which could be cheaper is: 1. Remove the antenna tuner from your car and fit to a Singapore, UK, Europe, Philippines, Malaysia etc market vehicle (but NOT US or Japan market) 2. Recode the car using BMW software to make the antenna tuner coded correctly for the car. 3. Refit the tuner back to your car.