Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'e82'.
Found 11 results
-
Hello, Thought id start a thread to keep track of the progress on my 2008 bmw 135i. A bit of background, before this car, I had a 2004 e46 330ci m sport that I bought for $1000 with a crash damaged front end. That was my first project car and taught me most of what I know about cars, I fixed the front end, stripped and restored the entire interior after finding water ingress, rebuilt the cooling system and replaced a few gaskets. Once finished, I felt that it was time to sell it as it wasn't a car I felt like should be modified being somewhat of a classic, I sold it to an e46 collector and began the search for my next project, it had to be small, fun and fast, preferably n54 powered for easy performance gains, decided on a 135i. I bought my sapphire black metallic, black leather interior, 135i in late October, 127,000km bone stock leaking oil, overdue a service, cracked 3rd brake light and broken LED in RHS taillight and a dirty interior, and on the drive home it went into limp mode. Great introduction to N54 life. Not really a surprise when you got it at price that makes it the cheapest low(ish) km 135i for sale. However it wasn't all bad, it had extensive service history, used to be under auto sure mechanical insurance, had the water pump and thermostat replaced, and a transmission service done as well as regular oil changes at 10k intervals, that is until the owner I bought it from got it, who only owned it for a few months. Catching up on things ive done so far: First thing I did was address the issues, scanned codes, limp mode was for exhaust Vanos mechanism, most likely just needed a clean from the old oil. Did an oil change, cleaned the Vanos solenoids and that fixed the limp mode. However I found the following issues; leaking sump, valve cover gasket, OFHG, oil cooler gasket, wrong coolant. Time for an FCP euro order, added PCV valve, top radiator hose, expansion tank hose, coolant flange and also a new drive belt to the list. I worked my way through all of the hoses, gaskets one by one, learning as I went and eventually had everything except for sump done. Valve cover took 2 attempts because I couldn't find a tool for the ground lead studs anywhere, eventually I contacted Ray from HellBM who ended up giving me one for free o massive thanks to him. Filled the cooling system with correct bmw coolant and bled it, so easy with the electric water pump. No more leaks. Gave the car a good clean, cleaned the interior, rewired the paddle-shifters for left down right up, and installed silver interior trim in the place of the woodgrain. Now the sump wasn't a job I wanted to do myself, I don't have access to a garage, nor a car lift so dropping the subframe didn't seem like a fun task, decided to let Michael from Euromotive handle this and got him to install catless downpipes and larger high flowing silicone turbo inlets too while he had the subframe out of the way. Next was coils and plugs as it had started to misfire on the way to the workshop, one of the coils in the car was a Chinese one and ripped in half, leaving rubber stuck on the spark plug after removing it, spent an hour in the car park with needle nose pliers puling bits of rubber out. Eventually got the new coils and plugs in and car ran smooth. Next step after fixing all the oil leaks and misfire was replacing the drive belt that had oil all over it from the OFHG leak. Did that, easier than I thought with the inlet in the way. Also installed pcv valve and oil catch can. At this point car was running smooth and no issues, decided it was time to make some more power, bought a bigger intercooler, metal charge pipe and installed them. Angle grinder came in very useful in making room for the intercooler. Flashed MHD stage 2+ and car felt ridiculously quick. And sounded good with the hatless downpipe and inlets. Then installed some dual cone intakes and blanked off inlets so that DV vent to atmosphere for more noise. Decided exhaust wasn't loud enough to match intake noise, so cut off muffler and welded in 2.5inch steel pipe with thin stainless exhaust tips, sounds better now but will go back and change this slightly. Decided that power was more than enough (for now) and time to move on to some handling and aesthetic changes. Bought a set of 18x8 et38 CSL style wheels (in white which is a unique look) from an e46 and they fit rather well. A little bit of rub on the front guards, but nothing a wheel alignment shouldn't fix. Also bought a set of second hand aragosta coilovers with adjustable front camber plates so that I can fit some wider tires and dial in the ride height as well as firm up the suspension. Got 6 well used dunlop direzza 03g 245/40/18 semi slick tires for free so will see if I can get them to fit to gain some traction. White wheels and a nice clean engine bay: That is where the project currently is at, waiting for a new 3rd brake light as it cracked again so I can take it for a WOF and then install my coilovers and try fit the 245 tires and hopefully get the wheels repainted soon, thinking either shadow chrome, gunmetal, or gloss black... More things coming soon
- 144 replies
-
- 10
-
-
I have a few questions about the e82 135i, specifically the N54 version What are some of the most common problems with the car What are some key upgrades to make in terms of performance and reliability to when the car is driven hard And there is no doubt it will be driven hard! Are they expensive or hard to do maintenance on yourself Are they still alright with over 150,000km on the clock
-
Looking specifically for a black 135i based around Auckland, preferably with a sun roof... What’s out there??
-
Hi all, Bit of a story before I dive into the issue at present. 6 months of working on my E82 135i project! Everything has been reassembled and it's ready to go! Had everything you can think of wrong with it. Water pump failure, gaskets leaking ect. Many thanks to Brent at BMWorld for supplying about 80% of the parts I needed. Did every single preventative maintenance thing on the car. New brake pads, gaskets, coolant flange, water pump, thermo, vacuum lines ect ect. Now she's been parked up in my garage now for almost a month without being started, she's been sitting on a trickle charger on her new battery. Went to start it in the weekend to take it for a WOF and found that now it just cranks and cranks about 3 or 4 times before giving up... Ran codes on it and it popped up with the codes in the image attached. Went to go change the relay but my car doesn't have a relay in the DME box, only the fan relay. After a search, everyone suggests that the fuse is now build into the fuse box (in the Gove box) and that either the JBE or fuse box is faulty or the DME is toast! Now I've done the following to try isolate the issue, I've swapped the Fuse box and JBE to a used one from a wrecked car. No avail and same codes. So fuse and JBE are not the issue... I've pulled DME out to inspect for water damage, corrosion and burnt wiring. Couldn't find any damage. Engine wiring is fine and nothing I can see is damaged, checked all ground points ect So I've basically isolated it down to the DME being the issue which is a shame because it's a MSD81 DME Are these known to just fail? Is there anything else I can check and test? If not, is there anywhere is New Zealand I can send my DME too for repair? Can I use a used DME if I can find one? Cheers J
-
Anyone parting out a E82 or E87 130i? Need the front radiator support 51647193193 $$
-
got this car in parting out low ks n55 dct front seats gone most other parts there be quick 021433600 [email protected] IMG_2271.MOV
-
Hi people. Im new to this forum but have been reading alot from it. Just hoping to pick your brains. Im looking for a 135i. The one i like is a 2008, 100km. Price is reasonable and it drives fine, no rattles/noises that stood out. 2 warnings : Battery is low, and date hasnt been set. Havn't noticed anything else wrong but it was only a 10min drive. The seller (private) also has a transferable mechanical warranty (autosure essential) for a year. After which i will purchase an additional warranty. The issue is the PPI. I havnt been able to book one in that suits (timeframe, location). While i know ideally a PPI from a specialist would be great, would it be safe to risk it since i have the MW? Look forward to some help..
-
Hi Guys, Im wanting to get bluetooth audio working in my 135i. The car came with an AUX port but no USB. I've been looking at this - https://www.amazon.com/Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Streaming-Connection/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497494958&sr=1-1&keywords=tune2air+bmw But im a little confused as to which model i would need as my car does not have a USB port. Would the above work with a cigi lighter USB adapter plugged into it? Sorry, a little clueless with this stuff. Basically, i want to be able to play music over bluetooth, and have the ability to skip tracks etc from the steering wheel. Looking for options Cheers!
-
http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1350621157 $24K 62KMs "The PPK option increases the power output to 240kw (up 15kw from standard) and torque to 450Nm (up 50Nm), available from 1,500rpm. 0-100 times are also decreased. It also adds a nice burble to the exhaust on over-run (fantastic sound when in sport or using the paddles). The upgrade includes a software reflash to reduce lag and shift times; a second radiator; new intake; uprated cooling fan; and oil cooler. This vehicle was also optioned with the uprated BMW Performance yellow brembo big-brake kit, suspension, silver decal and badging, carbon fibre spoiler and interior trim - and coolest of all, white LED lighting pack (including halos)." Did wonder if this was John @e30ftw but TradeMe member ref appears different ... Looks like an awesome vehicle - some of the pics are very nicely done too -
Noticed this while cleaning my car today. Had been driven about an hour prior. what is it? Should I be worried? IMG_0856.MOV
-
Hi all, e82. just noticed this now. heater on front vents are blowing cold air unless the temp is maxed out then really hot air comes out from the front vents. i usually have it on 21c so barely noticed it before. but it seems that the heater works fine on the leg warmers and the windscreen on all temps. anyone got an idea?
