*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 5, 2008 What ZF were you looking for ? e36 based one or older style one ? Unsure Josh...just was told the ZF was close ratio, but I could settle for standard 5 speed to fit the M30 I understood that 5th gear in the ZF was 1:1 and the standard box was .8:1 in fifth which will effect my final diff ratio Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted February 5, 2008 Unsure Josh...just was told the ZF was close ratio, but I could settle for standard 5 speed to fit the M30 I understood that 5th gear in the ZF was 1:1 and the standard box was .8:1 in fifth which will effect my final diff ratio you mean getrag 265 with dog leg 1st and 1:1 top .you want a getrag 260/6 86 onwards (better) or 260/5 pre 86 from any m30 engine there also is getrag 280 used in M5 and M6 etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 22, 2008 (edited) Well things are now on the go I pick up a 635 CSI motor (10:1 comp) today and the getrag 260/5. I have the E32 sump & oil pump and the mock up cars already for the fun to begin. All unnessary brackets & mounts removed from the mock up. Hydraulic boosters all in place and I also get the rest of the system today...resevoir, accumulator and pressure regulator. Next step is to make up the engine mount brackets (using E39 encaptured V8 mounts) encapturing these mounts is necessary to prevent engine moving around under acceloration & braking (very close tolerances), do the hydraulic brake, power steering & oil cooler hoses, mount and plumb up the E30 oil cooler and then on with the extractors and the manifold for the 6 X 40mm R1 Yamaha carburettors. I'll post up some progress pictures once the engine & box is in. This is all going to be quite different to what others have done before me, so I'll keep it all documented and keep the pictures coming. I've also changed the thread topic to 335cc project, cc =carburettored coupe Cheers Glenn Edited February 26, 2008 by botanymotorworx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted February 22, 2008 (edited) Well things are now on the go I pick up a 635 CSI motor (10:1 comp) today and the getrag 260/6. I have the E32 sump & oil pump and the mock up cars already for the fun to begin. All unnessary brackets & mounts removed from the mock up. Hydraulic boosters all in place and I also get the rest of the system today...resevoir, accumulator and pressure regulator. Next step is to make up the engine mount brackets (using E39 encaptured V8 mounts) encapturing these mounts is necessary to prevent engine moving around under acceloration & braking (very close tolerances), do the hydraulic brake, power steering & oil cooler hoses, mount and plumb up the E30 oil cooler and then on with the extractors and the manifold for the 6 X 40mm R1 Yamaha carburettors. I'll post up some progress pictures once the engine & box is in. This is all going to be quite different to what others have done before me, so I'll keep it all documented and keep the pictures coming. I've also changed the thread topic to 335cc project, cc =carburettored coupe Cheers Glenn All i can say is ...wow...6 40 mm R1 yamaha carbies mikunis?or keihin?6 flared intake trumpets?they will be fun to sychronise Edited February 22, 2008 by kiwi535 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 23, 2008 All i can say is ...wow...6 40 mm R1 yamaha carbies mikunis?or keihin?6 flared intake trumpets?they will be fun to sychronise Synchronising is easy... its the rest thats going to create havock... oil cooler, hydralic brake booster system, suspension, manifolds, engine mounts, plenum chamber, CAI, Ignition system and the list goes on ....and on...and on I'm going to try and get the Keihin's Not many bike wreckers are willing to split them up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 23, 2008 Gettin there Been at work since 3.00 this morning Motor and gearbox are in the hole....sh*t its a tight fit...now the critical alignment starts Not much room to move so this has to be dead accurate. Ive been able to drop the rack down by 10mm which helps. Ive got about 15mm from the crank pulley to the radiator. I think that will be enough, because I'm going to encapture the engine mounts to stop movement and make up reaction rods from the bell housing back to the custom gearbox cross member. Will put some pictures up Monday... I have to go out this arvo.... interupting all the fun More to come Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yuen 16 Report post Posted February 24, 2008 Glenn, working at 3am on a Sunday? Now that's dedication!! I will keep checking back on this thread... it's a very cool project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Creaver 55 Report post Posted February 24, 2008 Glenn, working at 3am on a Sunday? Now that's dedication!! I will keep checking back on this thread... it's a very cool project. Very very cool project, I look forward to reading more about it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 25, 2008 Just playing round with all the clearances at the moment and looking at all the options while I'm getting the engine mount brackets cut out for me by Rex @ Aquacut. When I'm happy with all the clearances I'll weld them up. I'll post some more pictures as I go. Anyone have some critiscism or suggestions please feel free Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Creaver 55 Report post Posted February 25, 2008 Damn that is tight Glenn, all the best. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 25, 2008 Yes it is. Ive got 10mm in the front and rear and about 12mm between the sump and steering rack. I tried lowering the rack down 10mm but that makes the steering coupling too short. I might alter the firewall slightly to give me a bit more. Just need to check inside so that I still have brake pushrod and heater box clearance. I'd still like to have a bit more room up front. I can take about 3mm of the front pulley because the air con belt doesnt use the whole pulley Vee. Anyone else here thats done this and can help with a little advice... would be appreciated. Ive checked the other forums, but no one gives you actual measurements. I might actually be ok as it is...just not sure. Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QuickSilver 0 Report post Posted February 28, 2008 Looks mean! tight squeeze, was reading on a page about an m30 removing the heater would give a little more room??? Cant quite remember. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bumpstop325 0 Report post Posted February 29, 2008 using E39 encaptured V8 mounts) encapturing these mounts is necessary to prevent engine moving around under acceloration & braking (very close tolerances) Just a question about these engine mounts. Are these the ones that are filled with oil? After reading this thread, I was interested in changing mine over from my yellow ones. got quoted about $133 incl each Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 29, 2008 using E39 encaptured V8 mounts) encapturing these mounts is necessary to prevent engine moving around under acceloration & braking (very close tolerances) Just a question about these engine mounts. Are these the ones that are filled with oil? After reading this thread, I was interested in changing mine over from my yellow ones. got quoted about $133 incl each You might have to modify your mounting brackets though. To encapture them you have to weld a 100mm inside diameter piece of pipe onto the bracket above the mount 37mm deep. That will give you 5mm clearance around the mount and only allow the engine to move forward 5mm under braking. I'll post pictures after I've made them. I had the profiles all cut yesterday and will bend and weld them up next week. Yes the mounts are cheap. I've gone for the E46, E39 M54 type mount now. The V8 ones are a bit bigger and fowl on the chassis. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr E34 11 Report post Posted March 6, 2008 M30 install in E30 for everyones interest(hope Glenn doesn't mind) Really good pictures etc. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263978 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 6, 2008 Dont mind at all...go for it Every bit of info helps Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
conrod 1 Report post Posted March 8, 2008 I tried lowering the rack down 10mm but that makes the steering coupling too short.Don't lower the rack, you will end up inducing "bump steer" if you do this. If you lower the front crossmember at the same time then okay, but not the rack on its own! Best if you can avoid moving any of these bits, as it does upset geometry, especially if you plan on lowering the car- which I am sure you will! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 21, 2008 Due to other time consuming commitments, this project is now for sale Will sell complete with the 316 and the mock up car or seperately. Selling with everything I have so far M30 motor is a M535 10:1 compression motor done 89,000 miles ( can be confirmed ) E28 Getrag 260 gearbox and driveshaft E34 sump, oil pump, engine brackets, power steering pump, alternator, front pulley, ignition trigger etc Engine brackets all profile cut, not welded up yet Will sell complete (both cars) for $7,000 Or sell mock up car with M30 and everthing else for $2,000 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
