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moktar

capacitors

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Hey all,

Ok heres the deal...

I have got a 1000w sony xplode 12" sub and a 1400w amp 700w x2 (can get the rest of the stats if need be) and i am setting it all up on thursday.

Of all places i passed i stopped in at hotwire... after looking through the past topics on this forum i realised that this is probly not the best choice i could have made

Anyway i showed him what i was planning on setting up and asked about capacitors he said that it is a must and proceeded to rant on about farads and other technical terms that pretty much ment nothing to me...

So i decided to come to the one place that someone is bound to be able to better inform me on Capacitors and if i really need one.

I honestly dont know much about capacitor apart from the fact that it holds the power from the amp untill needed. Would having this produce a better sound or just keep the amp from frying itself?

Im just not too sure if hes trying make a sale or really trying to help me out.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Miles

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I was using no capacitor with an infiniti Kappa sub and a v12 mono amp and it was fine. Only started using a cap when I put in more components and anathor amp and screens etc etc.

You should be sweet. Can always chuck one in at a later time if it craps out.

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If you have a good quality power source with decent sized cables, a healthy battery and properly functioning alternator its as one car-audio expert puts it "snake oil". In other words a waste of time and money.

But on very high drain systems with too small a power source (alternator/battery/cables) it can be a cheap bandaid fix compared with replacing the above components. Iwouldn't bother unless you have problems later on with dimming headlights and the like.

Edited by bravo

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^^ what he said.

I would assume your battery in a 328i would be the same ( if not better) than my one in a 318 so as long as you have decent power sources you should be allright.

What size wire are you using etc.

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There's a simple rule of thumb: if your headlighs dim to the tune of the bass beat, you need the capacitor.

The headlights will dim because the amp is sucking more power out the car then it can handle.

The capacitor provides a short-term extra reserve of power, that can supply the car (amp or whatever) and thus supplements the main car battery

But if you never listen to loud music, then the amplifier will never draw too much power, and you won't need the capacitor.

An alternative to the capacitor is to mount another car battery next to the amplifier: it does essentially the same thing.

But the capacitor is smaller, and normally sold in pretty colours with shiny terminals - more bling than functionality :-)

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Anything abaove 115Db sustained for more than 10 mins will cause permanent hearing loss of some degree at that frequency.

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Hi Miles

Nah, I wouldnt be putting in one for that setup. Massive overkill and unnecessary. Go for gold mate

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But if you never listen to loud music, then the amplifier will never draw too much power, and you won't need the capacitor.

I am installing a sub and amp. was kinda hoping that it would be loud!

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Thanks for the heads up guys.

After reading what y'all said i really think its overkill, since my battery is nearly new and amp and sub are made to run each other. Also as my battery is in the boot makes it really easy to run wires as short as possible. (was a mean help on the E30 having battery in boot makes life very easy.) my head unit is triple RCA so once i get some good front component's and a second amp i think ill have another look at capacitors at that stage.

Ill post pics and let y'all know how she sounds once installed. "Ya know... doof doof?"

Is there a way to calculate "damping factor" ?

thanks heaps!

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And before someone like Crusader doubts the advice from 3pedals. He is a very knowledgable audio engineer.

Edited by Cain

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ok cool. i have got an old pre-made box that the 12" is going into whilst i build mine up to spec. but i dont know the benifits of having it ported or not. i see that you can make the box smaller when ported (as per sony's instructions) but what diffrence is it going to make to the sound?

thanks, you guys are a wealth of knowledge!

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The manufacturers specs for box design are like a manufacturer tuned engine - they are a best fit compromise between performance (output) and economy (box size). If you want to calculate your box dimensions specific to your requirements to get the very best out of your sub, and don't mind doing a bit of reading and learning, download WinISD Pro (alpha) or Win ISD Free Beta.

Edited by bravo

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And before someone like Crusader doubts the advice from 3pedals. He is a very knowledgable audio engineer.

One would imagine! really onto it.

Have a look on forums.nzicemag.co.nz...there is HEAPS on there about port sizes and box sizes etc,just have a search.

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download WinISD Pro (alpha) or Win ISD Free Beta.

Awesome programme thanks!

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Upgrade your grounds instead of wasting your money on a cap. Your amps will have easily enough capacitors in it.

Upgrade the grounds from your bat, and from your amp. 0ga or 2ga from the bat, min 4ga from your amp.

If SPLers don't use caps(apart from for HU's sometimes) then you don't need to. Especially with a sony setup..

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