my own fault

[keen 6]

have got a mechanical warranty and did not read the details throughly the electric window on the right rear side has spat the dummy. And it is not covered. So will have to fix it myself Not having a how to manual does any one have an exploded view and any help details on the repair of the offending part and what problems that I'm likely to run in to on the way? the car is a 2000 318 Am I correct in thinking that this is a regular problem with these cars and that the drivers one making a noise now will fail also?

[*Glenn* 854]

have got a mechanical warranty and did not read the details throughly the electric window on the right rear side has spat the dummy. And it is not covered. So will have to fix it myself Not having a how to manual does any one have an exploded view and any help details on the repair of the offending part and what problems that I'm likely to run in to on the way? the car is a 2000 318 Am I correct in thinking that this is a regular problem with these cars and that the drivers one making a noise now will fail also?

All the Companies I deal with cover window regulators. What warranty company is it and what policy do you have ??

[Mark 178]

My mechanical warranty through Protecta Insurance only covers the engine and drivetrain.

[keen 6]

All the Companies I deal with cover window regulators. What warranty company is it and what policy do you have ??

I got the cover through "Turners" it is the "standard" policy of QBE international ltd.

[wild_weston 0]

It is most likely the regulator. This is a really weak plastic part that fails all the time on the E46s.

My rear drivers side was screwed when I bought it. They had removed the motor thinking it was that and never bothered to put it back.

Got a new motor and then found out I needed a new regulator. Cost me around $600 to get fixed in the end (went to the stealership).

There is a cheaper way though. Get yourself a new regulator (from hell bmw or ladies mile motors). Then check out the following link:

http://www.skene.org/bmw/window/index.html

Really usefull website for DIY stuff like this is: http://www.bimmerdiy.com/dir/e46

The interior of the door seems to be a bit of a pain to get off (and make sure you don't rip your vapour seal/ weather shedder). Other than that you should be fine.

Good luck.

Edited May 21, 2008 by wild_weston

[keen 6]

It is most likely the regulator. This is a really weak plastic part that fails all the time on the E46s.

My rear drivers side was screwed when I bought it. They had removed the motor thinking it was that and never bothered to put it back.

Got a new motor and then found out I needed a new regulator. Cost me around $600 to get fixed in the end (went to the stealership).

There is a cheaper way though. Get yourself a new regulator (from hell bmw or ladies mile motors). Then check out the following link:

http://www.skene.org/bmw/window/index.html

Really usefull website for DIY stuff like this is: http://www.bimmerdiy.com/dir/e46

The interior of the door seems to be a bit of a pain to get off (and make sure you don't rip your vapour seal/ weather shedder). Other than that you should be fine. Hey thank you for that. It was just what I needed. But don't you think that BMW should have recalled the e46's and fitted a modified part. this would be boarding on a safety issue. I'm surprised that they put them into the cars in the first place. the part that breaks looks pretty flimsy and BMW have a reputation for using quality parts in there cars do they not?

Good luck.

[wild_weston 0]

I would usually agree that BMW use quality parts and stake their reputation on this fact. But I've seen a few examples of where this isn't always true:

Single vanos seals - inferior quality.

Dual vanos seals - inferior quality.

e46 regulator - too brittle plastic.

Jatco transmissions on e36s - japan - reknowned for deteriorating and being nigh on unrepairable.

E46 - certain year of production they had a weld issue on the rear subframe.

In all of the above cases BMW never admitted that there was anything wrong. All that they did was bear the cost while the cars were under warranty and that was it. Worse than that - even if you tried to get some of the above replaced the OEM part (used for replacement) would still be the one of known inferior quality.

Got most of my info from E46 fanatics website, plus some personal experience,amazing what you can find on there.

Good luck with the repair.

Regards

[keen 6]

I would usually agree that BMW use quality parts and stake their reputation on this fact. But I've seen a few examples of where this isn't always true:

Single vanos seals - inferior quality.

Dual vanos seals - inferior quality.

e46 regulator - too brittle plastic.

Jatco transmissions on e36s - japan - reknowned for deteriorating and being nigh on unrepairable.

E46 - certain year of production they had a weld issue on the rear subframe.

In all of the above cases BMW never admitted that there was anything wrong. All that they did was bear the cost while the cars were under warranty and that was it. Worse than that - even if you tried to get some of the above replaced the OEM part (used for replacement) would still be the one of known inferior quality.

Got most of my info from E46 fanatics website, plus some personal experience,amazing what you can find on there.

Good luck with the repair.

Regards A small update I went into the dealers today to ask about the regulators and the parts guy said that he doesn't have a lot of call for them and we would have quite a few e46's in Palmerston north so that surprised me. then I tried sourcing them from a well known supplier who are not dealers and their price was $60.71 more expensive. then the next thing I found out was that the dealers said that the cable is the most common reason they replace them not the plastic pulley go figure that. now I will take mine off tomorrow and see who is the correct one.Interesting aye?

[*Glenn* 854]

The plastic rollers or plastic retainers normally go first, then the wire cable either breaks or tangles and can sometimes damage the motor drive. Either way, you have to replace the regulator. If you damage the weather seal, replace it, otherwise you will get water inside the car if left outside in the rain. Take your time getting this off with a very sharp knife or razor blade. Just carefully cut the seal bonding. We always use new sealing strip, we have a roll of it.

BTW. I wouldnt go second hand. You'll be buying something that is as old or older than the one that is broken. You'll end up doing it again at some stage. OK if you were selling it though.

Edited May 23, 2008 by botanymotorworx

[keen 6]

The plastic rollers or plastic retainers normally go first, then the wire cable either breaks or tangles and can sometimes damage the motor drive. Either way, you have to replace the regulator. If you damage the weather seal, replace it, otherwise you will get water inside the car if left outside in the rain. Take your time getting this off with a very sharp knife or razor blade. Just carefully cut the seal bonding. We always use new sealing strip, we have a roll of it.

BTW. I wouldnt go second hand. You'll be buying something that is as old or older than the one that is broken. You'll end up doing it again at some stage. OK if you were selling it though.

Thank you for the advice The cable was absolutely ........ and the mounting plastic on the window slide was broken in half, of course that was the reason the cable came loose. So for the $220 for a new one I was quoted it hardly seems worthwhile repairing. But being the stubborn ...... that I am I have tried to repair it and will try to get some new cables during the week to finish the job. if I don't think that it is strong enough after completion I'll ditch it.