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Andre3000

Engine management systems?

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Jus a general question on what people are are running on their cars and what kind of performance gains are they getting. Also how difficult/easy is it to install it oneself? Im quite interested in the link g4, but are there any other viable options, excluding piggyback's and chips?

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I think Motronic 1.3 can be chipped - I'm sure someone will expand (or correct me if I am wrong).

I've got a G4 Storm sitting waiting for me to install it on the 2002. Installation isn't really that demanding, based on reading the manual. Ask me once I've done it ;)

MegaSquirt is a sort of DIY cheaper version (but very fully featured). Be aware that to tune yourself (which isn't necessarily easy) requires a wideband o2 (either Link or MS require it). If you are paying someone to tune it, then the bill for dyno time for a decent tune is probably $1000 +/- a wide range.

There is minimal benefit without supporting modifications.

Edited by CamB

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hi

i have done a Megasquirt conversion on my VW which had K-jetronic, the car runs really well when warm with ITBS from a GSXR. its a screamer. i say well when warm, as with the ITBs i am not running a cold start valve, so as most cars, without that the cold start valves, are not ideal. but if its just for a track car, or project, its fine.

if you have a car with a good ECU which can be chipped or played around with, i dont suggest going to an aftermarket system, as its a waste of money and time unless you want to play around with parameters...

the advantages are awesome tho, as you have full control of everything and there are many outputs to run a boost soleniod, a simple on/off soleniod, or a PWM( pulse width modulation valve) so you can control the boost at different throttle/Map settings. other outputs include, traction control, shift light, radiator fan....

also, many quick Beemers like to use the Alpha N setting, which is pretty easily done with Megasquirt, however using a map sensor is much better in my opinion.

the disadvantages are tuning, level of difficulty, cost, and time. like the previous post said, it is much quicker to tune with a wideband sensor. however to gain the best results a DYNO is needed, but its quite expensive.

hope that helps.

Edited by nastnas

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Jus a general question on what people are are running on their cars and what kind of performance gains are they getting. Also how difficult/easy is it to install it oneself? Im quite interested in the link g4, but are there any other viable options, excluding piggyback's and chips?

Are you planning on a turbo or anything along those lines at some stage? because in that case a g3 or g4 could be handy for best results.

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Are you planning on a turbo or anything along those lines at some stage? because in that case a g3 or g4 could be handy for best results.

Nah im not looking to turbo, rather keep it natural, but do some kind of 2.8/3.0 conversion.

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In terms of removing the afm, is there any way i can do this without involving an aftermarket system? ie cheapest way possible?

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stick with motronic - have Gavin at Hi Velocity remap your 2.5, ideally with a set of headers

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Why do people with e30s always talk about removing their afm?

Is it that restrictive? Or has it become trendy?

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AFM are removed (on ALL older cars)because the flap system is slow to respond & is a major restriction to the air flow...thats why you now have hot wire systems...even the M3 CSL (E46) went to MAF.

Some options are as follows:

Remap the existing ECU on a rolling road dyno.

Remove AFM & piggyback Map-Ecu 2 (MAF system) on to existing motronic & rolling road tune (Map-Ecu 2- GO KIWI'S, NZ DESIGNED)

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=16177

Fit complete aftermarket ECU...not worth it for a stock 2.5 M20

Edited by mr E34

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I'll be putting a G4 in my car this year, with a turbo but.. Still if you are going to stroke it out to 2.8/3.0 and you have a spare 1300 bucks, I say go for it. You'll unlock so much torque with a proper tune.

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Thanks mrE34. Question seems rather stupid now tho ha.

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Guest Spottswoode

Get rid of the AFM, get a set of wayney headers, and a unichip with a custom remap from Gavin.

Probably the biggest power gains you're going to see without opening up the engine, Andrew.

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Am going the 2.8ltr M20 route now. Will be getting Gavin to Chip and Tune for me. Most effective gains for $$ spent.

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Atm im liking the sound of headers and removing the afm plus a tune up with sum map-ecu2 fun. If i was to invest in sum map-ecu2 gagetry, would i jus run a straight pipe instead of the afm? or wud i need a hotwire sensor or watever..... (im in the grey zone, in terms of my knowledge here :D).

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MAP = run a vacuum hose to the inlet manifold and yes, a straight pipe (preferably to a cold air box).

I suspect the factory airbox is still fine, so you could just use a bit of pipe in place of the AFM.

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AFM are removed (on ALL older cars)because the flap system is slow to respond & is a major restriction to the air flow...thats why you now have hot wire systems...even the M3 CSL (E46) went to MAF.

Some options are as follows:

Remap the existing ECU on a rolling road dyno.

Remove AFM & piggyback Map-Ecu 2 (MAF system) on to existing motronic & rolling road tune (Map-Ecu 2- GO KIWI'S, NZ DESIGNED)

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=16177

Fit complete aftermarket ECU...not worth it for a stock 2.5 M20

i would have to agree here since i tuned this car with the mapecu it drives really well, im alos using the same setup on my turbo e34 2.5 and wanting to push alittle more than 400hp,and keep the bmw motor. B)

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