[email protected] 0 Report post Posted April 14, 2009 Mmm okay chaps, I'm fairly interested in sorting out the few issues my E34 540 has that spoils the ride on the motorway, it just has these annoying vibrations at 80-100k's like a lot of them do. So I'm wanting to know, what should I actually be replacing to correct it with out doing everything? So far I've gathered I'll need to do both control arm bushes, the main cause for the highway shimmy? Another thing is the center drive shaft bearing / housing. What else is there thats a must? Lower control arm bushes? 4x? Steering rack bushes? Sway bar bushes? Also whats the story with the engine mounts and rear tranny mount? Are they worth doing to get rid of the small engine vibrations at idle? Any advise would be good as to what to get done first, I know at the end of the day doing all of them will be the best, but Ive gotta start some where. If you can help, please post. Cheers Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLLIE 26 Report post Posted April 14, 2009 first check that your wheels are all hubcentric and aren't missing any hubcentric rings if they need them. 2nd check that all your wheels are balanced. 3rd check for play in main control arm bushes (front) then follow your list after that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLLIE 26 Report post Posted April 14, 2009 first check that your wheels are all hubcentric and aren't missing any hubcentric rings if they need them. 2nd check that all your wheels are balanced. 3rd check for play in main control arm bushes (front). If they have play - replace them The other bushes generally don't cause the shimmy but if they are terribly worn then why not replace them drive shaft bearing was more a problem in the E39 I thought, but I might be wrong Engine mounts are not cheap, so only replace them if they are split or you feel like splashing out. Check gearbox mount, only replace if it appears to be in bad condition. Anyway, that's the order i'd do it ... good luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Creaver 55 Report post Posted April 14, 2009 Basically all of what's been covered. Unfortunately I have done all of those and the shimmy persists. So if I was to keep the car...I would do steering tie rods and then as a last resort shock/shock mount (because then basically that's the whole front suspension replaced!!) So if all else fails on what you've listed, perhaps try those. Good Luck!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted April 14, 2009 Mine does this ever so slightly, the inner tie rod has a bit of play in it, i suspect it's that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted April 14, 2009 Basically all of what's been covered. Unfortunately I have done all of those and the shimmy persists. So if I was to keep the car...I would do steering tie rods and then as a last resort shock/shock mount (because then basically that's the whole front suspension replaced!!) So if all else fails on what you've listed, perhaps try those. Good Luck!! have you tried different wheels tyres? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
[email protected] 0 Report post Posted May 12, 2009 (edited) Good news, I got around to replacing the thrust arms on both sides over the weekend. These are most commonly said to be the cause of the highway speed shimmy in the E34's. This proved to be the case with mine, after replacing both arms, with new bushes and ball joints the major vibration has gone! It's no wonder the vibration ocured either, the right arm bush was completely gone, soft and seperating from the metal housing. There are still tiny vibrations at around 105km/h, but I have yet to fit my lower control arms, so my guess is they will sort out those ones. From there I will progress to do the tie end rods if theres any vibrations going on. Definitely money well spend, I should have done this ages ago! Edited May 12, 2009 by Mike-E34 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted May 12, 2009 Did you check to make sure your wheels are hubcentric Mike ?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
[email protected] 0 Report post Posted May 12, 2009 They are indeed Glen, 72.5mm and 72.5mm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Creaver 55 Report post Posted May 13, 2009 Good job, nice to hear. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
topcat 11 Report post Posted May 13, 2009 knowing this problem well myself. ran smooth on 15's and 16s.changed to 17 and the shimmies started. everything know to man was tried,never cured the fault. so now i cruise at 85 or over 120,no problems Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
[email protected] 0 Report post Posted May 13, 2009 Good job, nice to hear. Cheers Man. Have you had any luck selling your 540i? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Creaver 55 Report post Posted May 13, 2009 Nah, none yet....thinking about converting the sucker to manual, fixing all the little bits up and making her a minter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
[email protected] 0 Report post Posted May 13, 2009 Haha, thats pretty much what I'm doing. I just don't care, the market for these cars is gone. So why not make use of them, Mines already worth 6500 to me, and Id be lucky to get 4500 for it, so Ill just use it, and go from there. Best car Ive owned, and its getting nicer. The E D lights on the light of the scroll dash started working yesterday! I dont have to squint to see what mode the box is in now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
[email protected] 0 Report post Posted May 15, 2009 Interestingly Ive notice the vibration is still there but at 100-105km/h, so its clearly not only the thrust arms that cause this, more than likely the front control arm bushes/balljoints Ive got a pair to replace the old ones, just have not got around to it yet as they are a bit more difficult to replace. Hopefully they will remove the last trace of it, if not then I shall do the tie end rods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted May 15, 2009 Interestingly Ive notice the vibration is still there but at 100-105km/h, so its clearly not only the thrust arms that cause this, more than likely the front control arm bushes/balljoints Ive got a pair to replace the old ones, just have not got around to it yet as they are a bit more difficult to replace. Hopefully they will remove the last trace of it, if not then I shall do the tie end rods. i assume the whels are balanced and alignment is good?How old are the tyres?If the rears look better than the fronts it might pay to swap them,and if any of the wheels are bent put the two best ones on the front.Worn tyres plus a little bit out of balance/bend can make these cars shimmy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakamin 0 Report post Posted May 15, 2009 .Worn tyres plus a little bit out of balance/bend can make these cars shimmy.Not wrong there... I thought I had the shimmy but at 85. New tyres and an alignment - gone! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
[email protected] 0 Report post Posted May 16, 2009 i assume the whels are balanced and alignment is good?How old are the tyres?If the rears look better than the fronts it might pay to swap them,and if any of the wheels are bent put the two best ones on the front.Worn tyres plus a little bit out of balance/bend can make these cars shimmy. They were balanced about a month ago. Still Id say they are partly to blame. It would now be in need of an alignment too. With things like this its a number of small issues that make up for one problem really. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites