_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted June 4, 2010 hey guys. the M52 car has a very slow oil leak (maybe a drip every couple of days?) brand new sump gasket, sump is torqued to correct amount. is this normal on new gasket when the engine hasnt ever been run? ie does the gasket glue needed to be heated up to bake on or something? If not, what cant i do to correct it? should i put some more gasket glue around the join between he block and the sump? or maybe some silicone? Im not pulling the engine back out to redo the sump.. if thats the only option then ill just top up the engine every few months Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted June 4, 2010 (edited) whens it ever normal for a new gasket to leak???? if it is coming out of a small section around the sump try just nipping up the appropriate bolt just a quater of a turn or so. if that fails, remove it, replace gasket and apply some rtv. if you have had the sump welded on at all it is quite possible it has warped. sorry i just re read your post, so i am asuming you have used only gasket glue, no paper gasket? if so that is ur problem. Edited June 4, 2010 by DRTE30 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted June 4, 2010 whens it ever normal for a new gasket to leak???? if it is coming out of a small section around the sump try just nipping up the appropriate bolt just a quater of a turn or so. if that fails, remove it, replace gasket and apply some rtv. if you have had the sump welded on at all it is quite possible it has warped. sorry i just re read your post, so i am asuming you have used only gasket glue, no paper gasket? if so that is ur problem. thats what i thought. tried that, but i dont want to go any further incase it snaps the bolt. already had that drama once. Whats rtv sorry? sump has not been welded. has a proper paper gasket i got brand new, never been bent or anything. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted June 4, 2010 M52B28 sump gaskets aren't made of paper ? It should be metal with a rubber seal on it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flake 0 Report post Posted June 4, 2010 when i replace the sump gasket on my m50 it was as glenn said, a metal one with rubber seal. i also used some gasket goo and haven't had any signs of leaks. plus my engine has been sitting longer than yours.lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 398 Report post Posted June 4, 2010 Are you sure it's the sump where the oil is coming from? Does oil even reach up to the gasket when the engine isn't running? lol. Or maybe cos it's on more of a lean it could.. ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted June 4, 2010 to be honest i dont remember what the gasket was made of. I got it from Repcos and i have never had an issue with thier gaskets before. fitted them to many engines. yep definately coming from between the sump and the block.. i cleaned both and then polished the sump so they were almorst perfect before install so very easy to see where its coming from is it okay to sear some gasket glue or silcone or something along the join line to stop it? i dont want to pull the engine again. if i cant do something along the join line ill leave it. the leak isnt that fast anyway, i just want to do it because its dirtying my cleaned and polished sump Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 398 Report post Posted June 4, 2010 If it leaks when it's not running... It will leak a whole lot worse when the engine is running. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted June 4, 2010 yeah i know i said that above Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted June 5, 2010 is it okay to sear some gasket glue or silcone or something along the join line to stop it? i dont want to pull the engine again. if i cant do something along the join line ill leave it. the leak isnt that fast anyway, i just want to do it because its dirtying my cleaned and polished sump It'l be all oily, gasket maker won't stick to it (I know from experience). Should get a real gasket from Gavin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted June 5, 2010 wasnt sure weather it was paper or rubber, anyway my point was, was a gasket used or was the gasket made with just gasket goo (rtv) from the above posts i think you should start removing your crossmember and all and replace that gasket again. get a good gasket and also apply gasket goo to both sides of it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted June 5, 2010 meh. it drips at like one drip a week. ill leave it for now unless anyone can suggest a way to do my idea. Oil isnt that expencive when you have the hookups on it anyway Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) ^lol, if you can put up with oil leaks then just see how it goes, but it will only get worse... hookups? old oil from the local fish and chip shop??? Edited June 5, 2010 by DRTE30 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted June 5, 2010 ^lol, if you can put up with oil leaks then just see how it goes, but it will only get worse... hookups? old oil from the local fish and chip shop??? well if it gets worse ill deal with it then. and no. lol. more like $10ish for 4L of any current Castrol product (obviously unused lol) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted June 5, 2010 now i know who to come and see at service time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 398 Report post Posted June 5, 2010 now i know who to come and see at service time. Now you have to be a nice boy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
