DIY Reprogram ECU after Auto to Manual Conversion

[sammcj2000 1]

DIY Auto to Manual ECU Reflash - Success!

I've put the following post up in a couple of forums around the net, we've had a real headache trying to get my newly converted E36 328i to realise it's a manual - We don't want anyone else to have the same headaches we did!
Big thanks go out to my buddy Ross who spent a great deal of hours trying to fix this with me.

Symptoms I was experiencing:

-High idle (700RPM~).
-The car was revving up 300-500RPM between gear changes.
-Slight lack of top-end power.


----

Well, what can I say... We've done it! - We've finally figured out how to properly reflash the ECU/DME to a manual.

If you simply reflash your ECU/DME to a part number from a manual, the ZCS coding values stored in the EWS will cause your ECU/DME to think the automatic box is still installed!

To fix this, you need to change the GM code stored in the EWS.

Due to the lack of solid documentation available for BMW Auto to Manual Programming, My friend and I have documented the process to make sure others don't have to go through the stress we did!

EDIT: Updated version of the document here:

https://gist.github.com/sammcj/8a958942fdad9ef6ebc4289a4de4dcef

If the link goes down, get hold of me and I will repost it as I probably won't be needing to check this thread any longer.




Did I notice a difference?... YES

-At first the car will not be that zippy at first, as it has to relearn its adaptation values.

-Once the car is warm, the idle speed will drop from the automatic 650-700RPM to 500-550RPM manual setting.

-When changing gears you will notice the rev’s drop a lot faster between gear changes (if you have a lightened flywheel you revs may still rise 200RPM~ at times.)

-I’m not 100% sure on this one as I’ve only just done it, but I’m pretty sure the car actually feels a bit peppier at the top-end also, mine actually seems to sound a bit deeper when applying rev’s!


***Update Below***

Edited May 10, 2018 by sammcj2000

[sammcj2000 1]

And the doc it's self: (updated at https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AaUN4XDu...zl4Zg&hl=en )

----------------------

Reprogram BMW after doing Automatic to Manual Conversion. (Based on my E36 experience)

written by Ross W, and Sam M.

This guide assumes the following:

-You have programmed a BMW ECU/DME before using DIS or similar.

-You are taking all the necessary safety precautions. (Fully charged battery etc…)

-You have DIS working (We used EasyDIS 1.0, Base 44)

-You have Ediabas (INPA, NCS Expert, IFH Serve) installed and working.

-You’re able to read between the lines of our crappy document, some steps may differ slightly and our wording may be somewhat imprecise.

Make notes of the following:

-Your Basic Control Unit part number. (Mine is 1429861)

-The equivalent Programmed Control Unit to suit your car but for a manual spec (mine was 1429954) – I found several available on parts websites online.

-Your VIN

Also noteworthy:

-We did this on a 1996 OBD1 Euro 328i Coupe, Siemens MS41.0 with Getrag 260 manual conversion.

-We used a Carsoft cable (Chinese version) that had been modified to provide voltage readings and had several pins bridged to work with ODB1.

-We will take no responsibly for ANY damage that could be caused by this process – use at your own risk!

The gist of things:

If you simply reflash your ECU/DME to a part number from a manual, the ZCS coding values stored in the EWS will cause your ECU/DME to think the automatic box is still installed!

To fix this, you need to change the GM code stored in the EWS; this is done through comparing a value from the E36ZST.000 file in NCS Expert’s Daten Folder with your current GM code. This is simpler than it sounds.

Steps:

1) Find your current GM code from DIS; this is located in programming under ZCS/FA Coding – Choose Print Current Values. Answer the questions provided and note down all three codes when you get them. (GM, SA & VM will be displayed).

2) Open the following file in notepad C:\NCSEXPER\DATEN\E36\E36ZST.000

3) Find the line with your model, engine, old transmission and US/Euro information. You will see a 8 character value on the left of the large number of 0’s that will look something like 11B20000. (The non-0 parts of this number should match the start of your GM code.)

4) Locate the same car but in manual, you will see the value above is slightly different, for an e36 328-coupe manual the value is 11A20000. Note this down; this will be the base for your new GM code.

5) Now match your new GM code found in the last step with your current GM code provided by DIS but ignoring the last digit, which is only a checksum value. For example:

Old GM code from DIS: 11B20700B

I found the manual GM base code to be 11A20000

My new GM code will be 11A20700 (and we will work out the last digit in the next step).

6) Open NCS Expert. (My version is in German)

Click File > Load Profil

Choose Expertmode

Press the first button – FG/ZCS/FA

Press the first button again – ZCS eingeben

Choose your model (e36)

Insert your VIN, Press OK

Enter your new GM (without the last digit) (Eg: 11A20700)

Enter your current SA (without the last digit) (Eg: 0000482001228491)

Enter your current VN (without the last digit) (Eg: 0004BFA936)

Tick checksumme berechnen and press OK.

7) Now in the top part of the display you will be provided with your new GM including your last character, which is the checksum value (mine was 11A207008).

8) Back in DIS / Programming

Choose ZCS/FA Coding

Choose Recoding

Choose the EWS module

9) If you get prompted something along the lines of ‘Are these correct?’ when displaying the current GM,SA & VM values – Choose NO.

10) Enter your new GM and your original SA & VN (these wont have changed).

Go through the programming process as normal.

11) Now we go to DME Programming

Choose exchange control unit

Determine Control Unit

12) When asked “Is the faulty unit still installed in the car?†choose NO.

13) Enter your current basic control unit part number. (Mine was 1429861).

Enter your chassis number.

Enter your replacement programmed control unit part number (Mine was 1429954).

14) You’ll need to click down a few times, then back to ‘Program Control Unit’

Enter details are requested (Kms, Chassis number), Start programming! (Make sure your battery is full of juice!)

15) DIS will now walk you through clearing your adaptation values.

16) Open ZCS/FA programming; follow the process to Align-EWS to DME.

17) Open DIS – Diagnostics and do a quick clear of errors.

All done!

You should notice:

-At first the car will not be that zippy, as it has to relearn its adaptation values.

-Once the car is warm, the idle speed will drop from the automatic 650-700RPM to 500-550RPM manual setting.

-When changing gears you will notice the rev’s drop a lot faster between gear changes (if you have a lightened flywheel you revs may still rise 200RPM~ at times.)

-I’m not 100% sure on this one as I’ve only just done it, but I’m pretty sure the car actually feels a bit peppier at the top-end also, mine actually seems to sound a bit deeper when applying rev’s!

Carsoft Cable Mods:

Pin 16 of the 20pin diag connector needs to be connected through a 4k7 resistor to pin 9 of the serial port

Pin 1 of the 20p diag via 4k7 to pin 6 on the serial

The above two allow INPA and friends to detect battery and ignition. Could connect direct without the resistors but you're in megadanger of blowing up your serial port so definitely use the resistors.

Pin 14 on the 20pin diag connector needs to be bridged (no resistor just a link) to pin 18 on the diag connector for OBDI cars to allow programming.

FYI:

On the 20pin diag connector:

Pin 1 is terminal 15 (ignition voltage)

Pin 14 is an always on 12v source

Pin 16 is terminal 30 (battery voltage)

Pin 18 is programming voltage for OBDI cars (not fitted in my E46)

On the serial port:

Pin 6 is Data Set Ready "DSR" (used by EDIABAS for ignition detect)

Pin 9 is Ring Indicator "RI" (used for battery detect)

On the carsoft cable the serial DB9 male to female has all wires in it pin for pin. The 20pin diag connector to the DB15 however only has 4 wires in it so an additional 2 wires will need to be added for the above mods.

[Revision 1.1 - 22/6/10]

Edited June 22, 2010 by sammcj

[sammcj2000 1]

The carsoft cable mods that Ross made are:

Pin 16 of the 20pin diag connector needs to be connected through a 4k7 resistor to pin 9 of the serial port

Pin 1 of the 20p diag via 4k7 to pin 6 on the serial

The above two allow INPA and friends to detect battery and ignition. Could connect direct without the resistors but you're in megadanger of blowing up your serial port so definitely use the resistors.

Pin 14 on the 20pin diag connector needs to be bridged (no resistor just a link) to pin 18 on the diag connector for OBDI cars to allow programming.

FYI:

On the 20pin diag connector:

Pin 1 is terminal 15 (ignition voltage)

Pin 14 is an always on 12v source

Pin 16 is terminal 30 (battery voltage)

Pin 18 is programming voltage for OBDI cars (not fitted in my E46)

On the serial port:

Pin 6 is Data Set Ready "DSR" (used by EDIABAS for ignition detect)

Pin 9 is Ring Indicator "RI" (used for battery detect)

On the carsoft cable the serial DB9 male to female has all wires in it pin for pin. The 20pin diag connector to the DB15 however only has 4 wires in it so an additional 2 wires will need to be added for the above mods.

[westy 614]

Thanks for the info. I'm sure some people will appreciate it.

Strange that I never encountered this problem with my conversion.

[sammcj2000 1]

Thanks for the info. I'm sure some people will appreciate it.

Strange that I never encountered this problem with my conversion.

No worries!

Are you sure? What is your idle speed? 328 should be 550RPM for a manual, if its an auto it will be around 650-700RPM.

[No name user 379]

very well documented info but as has been said ive never had any issues with both my cars when i converted to manual, turned key ran great both times

[sammcj2000 1]

very well documented info but as has been said ive never had any issues with both my cars when i converted to manual, turned key ran great both times

Mine started straight away, but yeah it has more power up top now and the rev's return better. Pretty interesting!

Do you know what their idle speeds were?

[westy 614]

No worries!

Are you sure? What is your idle speed? 328 should be 550RPM for a manual, if its an auto it will be around 650-700RPM.

Aprox 550 from memory.

How did you wire your car?

[sammcj2000 1]

Aprox 550 from memory.

How did you wire your car?

The guy I bought it from did the usual bridge bypass to allow it to start, stock wiring otherwise.

[hybrid 1043]

Thanks for the info ... Its very similar for e46/e39/x5/z4 on the ODBII system.

Im intersted what you did with the Carsoft cable to get DIS running. Will PM.

[No name user 379]

Mine started straight away, but yeah it has more power up top now and the rev's return better. Pretty interesting!

Do you know what their idle speeds were?

i put some cams in so one is 900 and the other stock 700, to which isnt that high and would only be an issue if it was a auto

[westy 614]

The guy I bought it from did the usual bridge bypass to allow it to start, stock wiring otherwise.

I wired to neutral. Not sure if that's any different to you or not, but I am OBDII.

[sammcj2000 1]

I wired to neutral. Not sure if that's any different to you or not, but I am OBDII.

Yeah I think thats the same.

But if the ECU thinks the auto box is still installed, it raises the rev's slightly to make the gear change smooth.

I wonder if having OBDII makes a difference?

[sammcj2000 1]

i put some cams in so one is 900 and the other stock 700, to which isnt that high and would only be an issue if it was a auto

I believe if its at 700 it still thinks its an auto.

[sammcj2000 1]

Thanks for the info ... Its very similar for e46/e39/x5/z4 on the ODBII system.

Im intersted what you did with the Carsoft cable to get DIS running. Will PM.

Hey no worries, I really need to work out a doc for that too, we actually used EasyDIS which was very easy to setup, I can post some howto docs that someone else as written on setting this up for you.

I used a VM, you have to make sure the RAM is set to 256MB and the hard drive to the right size (cant remember off the top of my head, 18.93gb or something?)

I'll give some more info tonight / tomorrow, I'm flat tack at work.

Also if you're in CHCH I'm happy to meet up / help out.

[hybrid 1043]

I'll give some more info tonight / tomorrow, I'm flat tack at work.

Also if you're in CHCH I'm happy to meet up / help out.

no worries , Im in AKL unfortunitly but can skype etc etc. Look forward to your PM later.

[*Glenn* 854]

I've got a slightly high idle and the revs are slow coming back to idle , so I'm going to give this a go. We did a forced manual recode on the DME & it's running the manual programe. Didn't do anything else so this is worth a try. Thanks for sharing Sam & Ross

BTW: I know of 2 others that do this to different degrees. Some do it and some don't. I've just put up with it because it's been quite OK apart from the slowness to return to idle...quicker would be better. My idle is just under 700rpm cold and about 625- 650 hot.

Edited June 22, 2010 by *Glenn*

[sammcj2000 1]

BTW: I know of 2 others that do this to different degrees. Some do it and some don't. I've just put up with it because it's been quite OK apart from the slowness to return to idle...quicker would be better. My idle is just under 700rpm cold and about 625- 650 hot.

Hi Glenn,

Will be interesting to see how it works with yours.

For what we understand, even though you can flash your ECU with the part / program number from a manual unit, it still uses the hardware found coded in EWS, Your GM code in the EWS provides the ECU with what options you're running. We're not 100% sure if this is also true for OBDII models but we can't see why not.

I do have a 100% working VMWare image of my GT1 / DIS setup if needed. Of course for legal reasons you would have to own the rights to the software too

[central3 31]

Very interested in this. My E36 conversion has the high idle and rev increase during gear change. Also I have been considering a conversion for my E46 but have been put off by the electronics complication. Reading between the lines re your discussion with Hybrid - do you think this same procedure is applicable to a E46? I see in your write up you refer to "Pin 18 is programming voltage for OBDI cars (not fitted in my E46)" - is this a mistake or are you making reference to an E46.

[sammcj2000 1]

Very interested in this. My E36 conversion has the high idle and rev increase during gear change. Also I have been considering a conversion for my E46 but have been put off by the electronics complication. Reading between the lines re your discussion with Hybrid - do you think this same procedure is applicable to a E46? I see in your write up you refer to "Pin 18 is programming voltage for OBDI cars (not fitted in my E46)" - is this a mistake or are you making reference to an E46.

Whoops thats a mistake, It's supposed to read "my E36.",

Are you in CHCH?

[central3 31]

No - Central NI

[sammcj2000 1]

Very interested in this. My E36 conversion has the high idle and rev increase during gear change. Also I have been considering a conversion for my E46 but have been put off by the electronics complication. Reading between the lines re your discussion with Hybrid - do you think this same procedure is applicable to a E46? I see in your write up you refer to "Pin 18 is programming voltage for OBDI cars (not fitted in my E46)" - is this a mistake or are you making reference to an E46.

Whoops! Ross just corrected my 'correction':

"Actually I was referring to my E46 not having that pin there. Your E36 /DOES/ have the pin and required it for programming. My E46 worked without it and not surprisingly as that part of the diag socket does not have pin 18 fitted."

>>Document updated.

Edited June 22, 2010 by sammcj

[central3 31]

Whoops! Ross just corrected my 'correction':

"Actually I was referring to my E46 not having that pin there. Your E36 /DOES/ have the pin and required it for programming. My E46 worked without it and not surprisingly as that part of the diag socket does not have pin 18 fitted."

>>Document updated.

thanks Sam - again do you know if this procedure would apply to an E46?

[sammcj2000 1]

thanks Sam - again do you know if this procedure would apply to an E46?

Howdy,

You shouldn't have to bridge the pins on your OBD connector for the E46.

The fix is only for OBD1 car's.

[hybrid 1043]

For DIS to work on the round plug ODBII connector you need ECU,EWS signal (12 volts) to pin 14,15 and 16.

However you can bridge these pins to provide 12 volts from the ECU ALIVE signal to 'bypass' DIS's checks if you dont have a EGS (gearbox controller)

Next pre-req is 13 volts, which is pretty much impossible from the standard battery and/or bridging it. So and easy way around this without using an expensive battery pack is to grab a reliable car and jumper it to your car that requires programming. It will provide the nessecary 13 volts. make sure that the cables are reliable, the car is reliable and the jumpered connection is secure as you DONT want a voltage surge while programming.