Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
sammcj2000

DIY Reprogram ECU after Auto to Manual Conversion

Recommended Posts

Interesting.

So my revving up between gears and 680-720rpm idle has come back to haunt me!

I have a feeling my car is not keeping it's settings and is 'constantly relearning'.

I've noticed the the clock has been loosing its settings every day or two which is odd.

I'm wondering there is something with my TPS or ICV as I'm getting a dead-spot / bog in power down really low.

I have also noticed that on idle, if I tap the juice, it bogs for about half a second before revving up.

So I'm out of $ and wondering WTF is going on....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds very similar to the m54bXX fly by wire issues ... flat spot in revs around 3-4k on full load etc etc,

Have you tried clearing the adaptive maps DME/EGS again and seeing if it disappears for a small time?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds very similar to the m54bXX fly by wire issues ... flat spot in revs around 3-4k on full load etc etc,

Have you tried clearing the adaptive maps DME/EGS again and seeing if it disappears for a small time?

Oh geez, fly by wire, is that easy to fix? what exactly goes screwy(/ie)?

Yep, I've cleared the adaptations twice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, I've cleared the adaptations twice.

This is why I said I'm waiting for a factory manual 328 to come to my workshop and be here overnight. I want to swap the EWS & DME over into my car and see if it all changes. I see in another thread your looking at knock sensors. Are you getting a fault code ? do the knock sensors become active in live data while driving ? If they activate while driving you may have another issue. If they activate, they are just doing what they are supposed to do (protect)... check the fan blades... a broken or cracked fan blade can activate the front knock sensor. My only issue is a slow return to idle when changing gears. The idle speed of just a tad over 600rpm is not really a concern.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi glenn,

I was looking into an o2 sensor actually.

I think the second one is a bit lazy.

I get no knock sensor errors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi glenn,

I was looking into an o2 sensor actually.

I think the second one is a bit lazy.

I get no knock sensor errors.

Ooops... pays to read things more carefully :rolleyes:

What readings are you getting ? and what is the difference between No1 & No2 ?

Do you get out of scale O2 sensor fault codes ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ooops... pays to read things more carefully :rolleyes:

What readings are you getting ? and what is the difference between No1 & No2 ?

Do you get out of scale O2 sensor fault codes ?

Ill have a look tonight, I know it was a bit slow to warm up and the reading a bit jittery.

The car seems to run a bit better when its cold.

Weird thing: the car shakes around / pulls/pushes under light throttle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, here are all the outputs from my sensors.

I noticed both oxygen sensor voltages we bouncing around from high to low, although both reached almost the same highs and lows it appeared to be at random? (it's possible this is my software i guess?)

Note: It has not been driven today, I let it warm up to 1/2 in my driveway before I took these readings.

Idle speed was between 680 and 720rpm.

(By the way, if anyone in CHCH wants me to plug into their car to see what their readings are feel free to PM me and I'll try to help.)

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by sammcj

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For anyone that's interesting in looking at my ECU software dump....

We've removed the chip and have taken a dump.

We've then dumped that back onto a new chip (29f200) which is up and running in the car (I had to get the Siemens DME socketed to take a removable chip holder thing (technical term unknown!) to put the new chips in.

Here is my BIN file (inside a rar)

http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B6UN...OGIwNzVk&hl=en

Info about car:

1996 OBD1 E36 328i Manual Coupe RHD. (Yes it is OBD1 as it's euro spec not US)

95-98 Octane fuel is always used.

M50 intake and cold-air-intake system installed.

Getrag 260 Manual Conversion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had my BIN tuned by the owner of 'http://www.ecuconnections.com'.

I paid him to have it done, but I think it's worth it.

Fuel increased by 6 miliseconds threw whole rev range in WOT

Timing advanced by 8 deg

Spark Increased by 4Degs in whole rev range

Spark Increased by 4degs in WOT range

Rpm limit set to 7000rpm

e36328_95octane_NAtune.zip

post-1812-1278825419.jpg

post-1812-1278825425.jpg

post-1812-1278825522.jpg

Edited by sammcj

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Badass ... dont suppose he got you any details on what where how ?

Nice to see you have some overlays.

Also, How did you end up dumping your ECU BIN ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Badass ... dont suppose he got you any details on what where how ?

Nice to see you have some overlays.

Also, How did you end up dumping your ECU BIN ?

I've attached a Siemens MS41 'How to tune' guide. (This is available on www.ecuconnections.com)

OK well dumping from a Siemens MS41.0 is a bit of a bugger because the flash chip is soldered onto the DME.

My mate Ross's father who is very skilled with electronics did this for me:

-Desoldered the Intel flash chip (28f200) from the DME.

-Ross put the chip in his willem eeprom programmer and dumped the BIN for me.

-We got in 2x AMD 29f200 flash chips and dumped the BIN from my old Intel flash chip onto it.

-Ross's father then soldered a small ejectable socket onto the DME to make the new AMD 29f200 chip fit and be easily removed for flashing.

-We installed the DME (with the new AMD 29f200 chip) back in my car with the original software still loaded (to prove it would work) and it did.

-We then uploaded my tuned BIN image to the AMD 29f200 chip and placed this back in the DME and back in the car.

Overall, it's a pretty simple process, but you _need_ someone that is good at soldering small connections.

If you have an OBD2 / Bosch system this would probably be a lot easier as their chips are already socketed.

BTW - feel free to download my 'tuned' image above and compair it to yours / a stock image and see the difference at those addresses - having said that, if you feel like spending $50, the admin from ECU Connections did it really quickly short notice, I PM'd him and within 15mins he had a the first version done

Siemens_MS41_Tuning_Guide.pdf

Edited by sammcj

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, Ross's auto to manual / checksum calculator looks really good up on the site aye.

What else is going to be put up on bminfo.co.nz?

Edited by sammcj

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hehe .. Still have some more articles to write.

Re the eprom burner ... My old man does the same sort of things .. I just never really had the balls to de-solder my eprom from the mss50.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Uploaded the more aggressive tune to my chip tonight... (+8 deg ign timing)

It's so, damn, good! :o

In fact, there was a much bigger difference between tune 1 and tune 2 than there was from stock to tune 1!

I still have the problem with the car holding rev's between gears.

It's pretty impressive now, all I need is a 3.something LSD. (And maybe to remove the cats?)

post-1812-1278930117.gif

Edited by sammcj

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

maybe do some testing and monitoring of knock.

Sounds awesome man .. good work. Do your exhuast system and look for any flow restrictionssuch as noise reducer 2-1 pipes about mid way down. This will help your topend power.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When the rpm limiter is moved how is the fuel and spark controlled in the gained rpms? Is there space to add in new values?

Are you using a wideband sensor to see any changes in wot? Or is it all butt dyno stuff

What information did you give the tuner? is it just a general tune not specific for your car?

Was your second tune one you personally changed or was that done by ecu connections as well?

Thank you for supplying this info. This is all new to me and i'm trying to get my head around it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it the GM that needs to be changed or the SA? :huh: Does this depend on the model? In an auto to 5 speed swap for an E46, Neil1138 notes the SA code and changes his SA code but leaves the GM and VN alone.

Step 12: Coding

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=659314

Try out the tool Ross made for re-coding your GM.

http://www.bminfo.co.nz/?page_id=31

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try out the tool Ross made for re-coding your GM.

http://www.bminfo.co.nz/?page_id=31

Thanks, but I have an E46 :(

Do you have the E36ZST.000 file? My NCSExpert version 3.0.8 had E31 files in it?!? I wanted to see how you and Ross got the new GM code. The attached image here shows an except from a data file named E36ZST.000 but for some program called Zeko v4.2a. How accurate is this compared to your E36ZST.000 file?

post-6188-1285463704.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wait, I think I see something...all the 11's were looking the same. I see the 11B2 and the 11A2.

How did you know to save the 0700 from the 11B20700 and just pair it with the 11A2?

post-6188-1285464606.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I got it...if this is correct with what I am looking at for the E46ZST.000, particularly the E46 330Ci.

According to this:

post-6188-1285465174.png

These are the only three I get to pick from. BN51, BN52, and BN53. Mine is a BN53 from various VIN decoding plus going to realoem.com and entering in the VIN. So seeing how mine is a U.S. model, and the other two are Euro, my GM number will not change, unlike for the E36 recoding/reprogramming. So, as mentioned in Neil1138 (e46fanatics) link in a few posts above:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=659314

He only seems to mention the SA code. I strongly believe now that this is correct with looking at the E36 instructions and how it examines the GM code in the NCSExpert data files.

I'll have to post my own E46 programming write-up when my time comes. :D There is also the coding bit about recoding the cluster (kombi) to have it disable the transmission gear display.

I used the SA decoder/encoder here to get my new SA code. If I am correct, all I needed to do was to uncheck "0205-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION" then re-encode it to get my new SA code.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...