*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted July 29, 2010 Just thought I'd pop in this handy little E30 rear sway bar mod to stop sway bar links coming off the sway bars. Picture of the sway bar tip Grind down the tip so you have about 8mm of flat surface Centre punch and drill out for 6mm thread to a depth of 20mm. Then tap the thread. I used a shallow cap screw and a stainless steel Toyota rocker cover seal washer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 17, 2010 Mission accomplished Updates either tonight or in the morning Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted August 17, 2010 Excellent! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted August 17, 2010 The other thing you have to consider, if you increase negative camber, you also increase positive toe in. Under acceloration the bum will drop, camber and toe increases. The actual degree of this I'm unsure of. Credit to Gustave. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 17, 2010 (edited) I have now acheived what I set out to acheive. Front and rear camber all negative 1.5 deg F&R Rear toe is now reduced from 7mm + total to 0.8mm total. Although zero toe is achieveable, the alignment tech recommended a small amount of toe in to stabilise the rear. A little bit of a mission...but it's all done now... more to follow Edited August 17, 2010 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted August 17, 2010 Good news Glenn! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 17, 2010 (edited) Started Monday morning. Removed exhaust, handbrake cables, brake hoses, ABS & Wear sensor wiring, rear wheels, driveshaft and dropped the whole diff, subframe and axle assembly out. Removed old subframe from diff and control arms. Burnt out the old control arm bushes and installed the new control arm bushes. Sorry no photos of this as I didn't have my camera at work, but it's all pretty simple and staight forward. Measured up the Delrin subrame bushes and found that the mounting is slightly different from the E30, which the bush kits were made for, 11mm difference in height. I had 5mm machined off the top alloy insert and the Delrin bush had 6mm machined off the top and recessed for the alloy insert to go back in. I removed the subframe mounting studs from the chassis and purchased 150mm bolts to substitute for the studs. Removed the rear diff plate and cut the mount with a hack saw to get the old mount out. Fitted the new Delrin diff mount. The diff mount is off centre, the slotted centre must go horizontal with the 40mm (from centre to the top & the 45mm from centre to the bottom. I then drilled the housing into the bush, removed the bush and taped an 8mm thread in the housing for the grub screw locator. Refitted the bush with eurothane and fitted the grub screw with loctite.. Cleaned up the diff housing and cover, refitted with eurothane and refilled the diff with 75w90 LSD full synthetic oil. The geen arrow indicates 40mm the red arrow 45mm. Pressed in the new Delrin subframe bushes using some threaded rod and washers. You will notice I've put the subframe toe adjusting bolt in from the subframe mount. I did this deliberately to make it easier to undo the the locking nut when adjusting toe. It does require the bush to be removed if you ever need to replace control arm bushes, but much easier for the alignment technician. Refitted the whole assembly, exhaust etc etc, bled the brakes, adjusted the handbrake cables, spanner check everything, then off for the wheel alignment. Edited August 17, 2010 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted August 17, 2010 Nicely done Glenn And if my diff mount is as flimsy looking as that no wonder I tore it off the chassis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 17, 2010 Thanks Simon.. I'm really pleased with result after driving it home and to work this morning. A bit more road noise because of the rigidity of the mounts and a little gear noise which I can live with, but the handling is much more positive now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1039 Report post Posted August 18, 2010 Nice work! ... Will help big time when getting it set up for track days Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 18, 2010 Nice work! ... Will help big time when getting it set up for track days Very true Josh... knowing what you have in the beginning and knowing what you want to acheive is critical in doing this mod. All my calculations turned out spot on... and it all works properly. The alignment tech said it was so easy to set up and very well done. Anyone needing more info on this mod...ring me (09)2722546 or 021921377 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
