Another Broke E30 :/

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

Seems to be a bug in my suburb of no working E30s haha. i swear i have nothing to do with them before they break! This time its the mrs' step-dads

91 E30 310i

M20B20 (highly doubt its a b25, but is a possibility as the chassis is quite high km)

Electric automatic.. the one with sport/ecno etc

Jap import

..anything else you need ill add it

Car was used as a DD last year, then one morning it wouldn't start, and has sat in the carport ever since. As far as i know, this was not an intermittent problem before hand.

Car will not crank over at all when you turn the key. Lights very very occasionally come up on the dash, but then die as soon as you flick the key to start. other than those lights, the car gives no response ie ICV or fuel pump. What ive checked so far:

- General observation of engine bay, everything looks right

- All fuses are good

- All relays in the fuse box click as normal

- The three relays in the engine bay i tested and give good continuity

- Replaced main relay anyway

- Checked bolts on starter and all are on the correct terminals (you can put them on the wrong way anyway)

- Ground strap needs replacing, BUT for now i cleaned it and it throws a resistance of 0, so is fine. ill get him to replace that

- ECU no moisture

- ECU for the gearbox is the same (mounted in the boot)

- Put fresh gas in the car last week when i first looked at it

- Did not have the right tools on hand for seeing if the engines seized, but after only sitting a year i doubt it right?

What i think my next steps are:

- Check for siezed engine. Wouldnt explain intermittent electrics though

- Take out the ignition switch and test that.

- Also just thought now i might turn the car to ON and see if there is a drain (when the dash lights arent on).

- Check inhibitor for automatic box. Where is this for the electric auto?

- ??

Anyone experienced this before? thanks!

Edited July 13, 2010 by _Ethrty-Andy_

[zenetti 0]

silly question... but have you checked the battery?

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

not as sillly as it might seem! but yes i have, i charged it up. also isolated it and connected it to the volvos battery, with no change

[Forrest 35]

I would replace the ignition switch, had the same symptoms and had corroded/fried terminals, fixed once replaced.

Edited July 13, 2010 by Brams

[hotwire 352]

Battery may be good but - dirty connection inside terminal?? - Have you tried starting on jumper leads? If this was the problem - jump starting would bypass that problem.

Could be as Nathan said but I would doubt the ign switch to all of a sudden fail - never to go again.

My hunch is a connection issue somewhere in the main supply/earth.

Using a test light or voltmeter to confirm where voltage is or isn't is the easiest approach

[bmw335i 16]

check the distributor. mine cut out when i was driving my old m10 e30 once upon a time

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

I would replace the ignition switch, had the same symptoms and had corroded/fried terminals, fixed once replaced.

This is what i wanted to hear! thanks mate!

Battery may be good but - dirty connection inside terminal?? - Have you tried starting on jumper leads? If this was the problem - jump starting would bypass that problem.

Could be as Nathan said but I would doubt the ign switch to all of a sudden fail - never to go again.

My hunch is a connection issue somewhere in the main supply/earth.

Using a test light or voltmeter to confirm where voltage is or isn't is the easiest approach

Yes have tried leads. (isolated the batteries in both his E30 and my Volvo, and then connected his car to my battery using leads)

I have heard of that before.

check the distributor. mine cut out when i was driving my old m10 e30 once upon a time

joke at dizzy cap? thanks for the tip, but i wouldnt think that would give a total lack of responce by the car. Ill check that if i can get the car cranking but no start.

[Forrest 35]

FYI mine melted cause I had a wire short out and set under the dash alight

Worth a try though, doesn't take too long to get to it.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

okay so after spending the morning and early arvo washing and waxing my cars i went over there and got started on his car again.

Clipped in a new ignition switch which i tested and does not have any change in regularity. the car initially stayed dead, then it decided it would show it had life and the dash lights came up in ON and cloud set the clock etc. (Also found it had a WORKING fan switch!! never heard an E30 fan on 1,2, or 3 lol)

This time the ICV was humming too. turned the key to start, but it died again like i thought it would.

So still stumped! i probed around a lot with the multi meter and everything is fine. I checked:

Current draw (when the car was normal but ignition to OFF) = 0.1mA

Resistance from +ve to starter = 0.1 ohms

Resistance to fuse box = how to check??

Voltage across jumper leads = 10<V<14

Voltage at starter (permanent live) = same

few other bits and pieces but all telling the same story.

I also had a good chat about it on anything that may have contributed to it before it was stopped being used, and apparently it hit a loose manhole cover which took out the wiring to the automatic tranny (its one of the late model electrohydraulic ones). This prevented the car from responding at all as well. He does not know/cant remember whether they reconnected the old one or installed a new loom. Once this was done the car was drivable again. I think this might be the next thing to check, but i really have no idea what id be looking for as ive never looked at/worked on an electrohydrauic 'box before. Anyone have any photos or something of that area?

Any other ideas?

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

Bump anyone?? Glenn?