Forrest 35 Report post Posted January 17, 2011 Bitta shopping done in the last week or two. Pelican parts earns a killing out of me, brought; water pump, timing belt kit, PP bolts, pedal rubbers, thermostat and assoc. gaskets, crank seal, rear main seal, sump gasket and exhaust manifold gaskets. Have organised a set of delrin rear subframe and diff mount from Kerry at Mosens. Not a lot more to order before all the pieces of the puzzle are here, mainly need a slave cylinder, clutch release bearing and driveshaft hanger mount, and get the flywheel lightened. Is 6kg safe enough for a cast fly? Now that the LSD in my own car is leaking I am half tempted to use the one Dad brought for his car in my own then get this one rebuilt and ramped up, same ratio and everything so it wouldn't be an issue. Rear boot has now been stripped, just need to work out how to remove the long range fuel tank and that'l be sorted. Going to Hampton Downs this weekend for the Chris Amon Festival then it will be game on after that to crack into the engine/driveline removal and suspension swap, can't wait. Few pictures to keep the thread interesting: Pelican Order Ugly Jap plate holder removed Boot strip Where has the potential gone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 21, 2011 Have your sorted the long range tank? I have all the parts. Ring me! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted January 23, 2011 i run 6kg on mine with no issues so far... wheres the progress at dude? i will be rebuilding my lsd myself over the next few months so if your not in a rush we could use mine as a guinny pig for a diy rebuild... its not a hard job from what ive reaserched. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted March 20, 2011 (edited) Time for a bit of long overdue update, progress is chugging along, we (read: me) have been cracking along wanting to get this done asap. - Rear end is finished for now: Koni adjustiables, King spring superlows, Delrin subframe and diff bush, urethane trailing arms, 3.64 LSD, rear sway bar delete, long range fuel tank removal. - Sunroof has been removed, what a f***n nightmare, compared to when Henry removed his our one was in perfect condition, got annoyed and managed to buckle the roof in the process (a replacement shell was mooted but decided to perservere with this one, too much work done already - some bog and a panelbeating hammer should fix the worst. - Engine and auto gearbox removed, engine overhaulled with new sump, thermostat, rocker cover, exhaust and rear main seal gaskets. New water pump, thermostat, cambelt, tensioner, viscious fan delete, dizzy cap and rotor, spark plugs and leads, oil filter, fuel filter. Manual pedal box fitted and clutch lines installed in the car, driveshaft center hanger bearing replaced. Engine and manual gearbox should go in this weekend all going well. - Front end has been stripped, I am awaiting a tie rod and some shock dust boot covers and that will be installed asap. New control arms etc going in also. - Have donated some parts off my current E30 as I figure there isn't alot of point having two identical spec cars in the garage, so once this one is done I will have my green one up for sale, - still a relatively modified state. Parts donated to this car include: AKG motorsport urethane engine mounts, Whiteline 23mm front sway bar, heavy duty rubber gearbox mounts, homemade aluminium cold air box, race exhaust, electric fan set up, motorsport leather gearknob, tech1 wheel, r888's. Have also sourced a set of 15' weaves, installed a aluminium steering coupling and picked up a fibreglass iS lip from Hans (Dutchy) - thankyou so much mate! Here is a few pics of bits and bobs anyway, nothing too exciting, should be more visual progress in the next week or two. Still got plenty of sound deadening left to strip too Edited March 20, 2011 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Top Secret 2 Report post Posted March 20, 2011 Nice progress. Pity to hear about the sunroof causing a bit of a headache. What options are there for making the LSD more aggressive? Can you modify it so it becomes a 1.5 or 2 way? Ramp angles etc. What do all the E30 guys in Europe use for motorsport? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted March 20, 2011 It's already a 2 way. They can have the ramp angles modified to be more aggressive on acceleration, and the lockup can be increased (by shimming - rangi, or by adding plates - properly). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted March 21, 2011 (edited) There are plenty of threads online in re: to diff modification, e30tech is the best place to look I have found for DIY stuff, if I was to do it I would pay a pro to do it imo, doing a front seal was scary enough. I should add this car is a very budget bang for buck build, there are many things we would like to do in terms of engine mods etc but there are far more important things to spend $$$$$ on than cars. Hoping to build the whole thing including respray and rollcage for under 10 grand, very much on track at this stage, with only the brake parts to buy and cage + paint really. I should add due to my Dad having health issues, it will be me I will probably be driving this on the track once it is done for the short term, and I can't wait to get it out there, even though it is basically a shared car at this stage Edited March 21, 2011 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted March 24, 2011 (edited) Front struts done with Koni Adjustiables and the specific progressive race series 320i king springs. New rack ends, tie rods, 23 mm whiteline sway bar with urethane D bushes and new end links. So thank god all the suspension is finished! No pics because it looks like it has factory ride height thanks to the lack of a engine and gearbox at the moment. Next up is the brakes (factory rotors, flash pads and braided hoses) and finish off the interior to get it all ready for the cage. Hopefully will get some pics after the engine installation this weekend all going well. Edited March 24, 2011 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted March 25, 2011 Should have taken some pictures of putting the Koni adjustables in.. I'm yet to get around to buying some for the front of my car. Sounds like progress is HAULING along, keep it up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted March 25, 2011 The front Koni's are no harder to install than OEM shocks, and you get plenty of instructions included. Weather is average here today and presently have no water thanks to a burst water main, shouldn't stop me getting the engine in though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted March 26, 2011 Good progress mate. Hope your dad gets well soon, I still remember when he pressed that CAB in by hand, strong guy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted April 4, 2011 Cheers Max. Update time. Engine and gearbox in, weekend before last. All thats needed now is to replace a missing powersteering pump bolt, throw some acc belts on it, buy a new battery and sort the wiring out to trick it thinking its in park all the time now so it can be started. Weekend just gone I spent all Saturday rebuilding and refreshing the brakes. Consisted of new plain rotors front and rear, OMP race compound pads in the front and OEM replacement rear pads. Also added were braided brake lines off my old car and also regreased the sliders. Driveshaft was also attached for good, and exhaust of my old car fitted apart from the rear mount which I forgot is different to a PFL, so will need to get handy with the welder and 'adjust' the rear valance to fit the exhaust nicely. Not much more to do then it's off for a cage which will be organised soon. Here's a few pics of bits and bobs. Cheers, Nathan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted April 4, 2011 Oh how this brings back memories. Looking good bro. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted April 4, 2011 (edited) All this build brings back is deja vu that I have done this sh*t too many times already, after this I'm having a break from modifying cars for a bit. Probably. Cheers bro, uncanny how similar our cars started out, hope this one will be just as baller as yours in the end. Plus once the m20 goes bang hopefully a m52 will go in so can be equal on displacement too. See you at Taupo in Sept Edited April 4, 2011 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted April 4, 2011 All this build brings back is deja vu that I have done this sh*t too many times already, after this I'm having a break from modifying cars for a bit. Probably. I call bulls**t. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) Having issues getting this to crank at all post manual conversion. Turn key, ign turns on, but no fuel pump, TPS click etc, ICV humming but I am getting the K5 unloader relay click at the fuse box. I have followed this diagram in terms of bypassing the auto inhibitor switch: http://www.slidewaysonline.com/images/E30M...anualwiring.gif but it isn't doing anything. Can anyone shed some light on what I have missed? All the obvious earths etc are back as they were, have double checked the c101 connector and I am getting mains power to the starter motor, unsure about the black yellow solenoid wire but the connection seems fine between starter motor and ign switch wiring. Is there a relay I can bypass to get it to start or a wire I can splice direct to the starter motor from the c101 connector? Much like this? http://forums.eurocca.net/showthread.php/3...4490#post454490 (Written under the problem solved bit). Don't really want to splice engine loom unless I have to. I have a feeling there is more to it than the inhibitor switch wiring but I can't be sure. Any help? and thanks in advance Edited June 25, 2011 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted June 25, 2011 Okay so I got it to crank. Further research found that I could remove the starter inhibitor relay (underneath the glove box, and jump pins 30 and 87. It now cranks and wants to catch but I don't think there is any fuel, I can't hear the fuel pump prime briefly when I turn the key on, will check the fuel pump with a multimeter in the morning, anyone think of anything else I have missed? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gotheschu 1 Report post Posted June 25, 2011 Okay so I got it to crank. Further research found that I could remove the starter inhibitor relay (underneath the glove box, and jump pins 30 and 87. It now cranks and wants to catch but I don't think there is any fuel, I can't hear the fuel pump prime briefly when I turn the key on, will check the fuel pump with a multimeter in the morning, anyone think of anything else I have missed? My car's fuel pump didn't prime when my ignition turned on a while ago. Found out it was caused by a 2 Pin Plug ( something that size ) was not plugged into the ECU itself. That might be your problem. If not may be the fuel pump relay... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted June 25, 2011 ^you mean the 3 pin plug under the steering collum, may pay to check this nath, was the same problem anthony had. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) ^ Have checked this but will double check later, remember its a FL so the wiring is slightly different. And yip going to try jump the fuel pump relay in the morning see if it makes a difference, otherwise I'm sure I'm missing a earth somewhere, still got no icv hum etc. When I removed the 2nd SA fuel tank I unplugged the control box and wiring associated with it, would that break the entire circuit for fuel? I was under the assumption they were two separate circuits? Can anyone shed some light? Ta Edited June 25, 2011 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) Jumped the fuel pump relay, fuel pump turns on but no start still, replaced main dme relay also. Getting over this pretty fast now, really need a multimeter. Is my next port of call the crank sensor? Edited June 25, 2011 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hartage 0 Report post Posted June 26, 2011 Nath, If the car is turning over, then it nothing to do with the auto swap out as i see it. Go back over all the electrical plugs, earth between motor ans body by the p/s pump, it has to be some thing simple as it ran before! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2136 Report post Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) Go onto realoem.com and punch in your vin, it will show you an exploded view of the fuel system wiring, which you can compare to a non SA circuit. Are you getting spark? Check ecu has terminals the right way around if you removed it. Iirc the car will still crank even if there is no ecu in the car as it's a separate curcuit. Certainly the case with m5x conversions. I must say I haven't really played around with m20 other than doing a manual conversion. Only wiring you have to do for that is under the gearstick which I assume you have done Also text me about that valence next week if you still want it Edited June 26, 2011 by _Ethrty-Andy_ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) ^ Yeah sweet man, been busy at work and training, will text this week as I have bit more time. I have no power at the coil (so no spark) so been chasing around how that came about, got 12v at the ignition switch but nothing at the coil, so I am stumped. Have done the wiring under the gearstick to bypass the park safety starter switch, and works fine, cranks just no no snap crackle pop. Will have a look on realoem cheers. Wiring diagrams are killing me slowly. Edit: And thanks Ian for your help, currently have one earth wire from chassis to sump do I need a extra one? Compared with flakes car and he only has one from the sump to the chassis. Edited June 26, 2011 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted June 26, 2011 give us a bell if you get stuck, can come and look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
