Garett 103 Report post Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) After looking over the specs and doing some reading im going to stay with the b32 cams as they should be fine for my build and are already mated to the lifters and shims Ive just been going through the BMW catalogue and getting part numbers of what i think i may need.. My Orders List: Engine Block: 11111317548 x 1 Nozzle mesh gause top of block 11121726243 x 2 Dowel 13.5mm 11121726238 x 8 Dowel 10.5mm 11111743118 x 2 Dowel 14.5mm 11111403958 x 1 Maybe Chain guide Bearing bolt 11421317278 x 1 Oil spray nozzle under piston Under Intake: 13411401660 x 1 Idle Control Valve lower hose 13411403013 x 1 Idle Control Valve Upper hose 13901403010 x 1 Idle Control Valve Upper hose to rear top rail steel pipe Timing: 11311405081 x1 S50B32 Chain Tensioner 11311317335 x 1 RH Upper Chain Guide rail 11311309945 x 1 RH Lower Chain Guide rail 11311317339 x 1 Top Chain Guide rail 11311317338 x 1 LH Chain Guide 11311317668 x 1 Chain Guide bearing bolt 11311403081 x 1 Timing Chain 11311317332 x 1 Idler Sprocket with needle bearing Vanos Delete: 11311403367 x 1 Exhaust Sprocket 11361401494 x 1 Exhaust Sprocket locker 07129905536 x 6 Exhaust Sprocket bolts M6x16 8.8 Engine Sump: 11411401399 x 1 Oil Pump Chain 11411317650 x 1 Oil Pump Chain Tensioner 11417838123 x 1 Oil Pump - S50B32 Duel Pickup 11411404621 x 1 Suction Pipe 11411404635 x 1 Suction Pipe o-ring 20x2.5 11411404584 x 1 Return pipe 11361404409 x 1 Return pipe o-ring 12x2 11411404645 x 2 Support Brackets 07119904524 x 2 Support Bolts M6x16 8.8 Cooling System: 11531318274 x 1 Thermostat 11511405720 x 1 Water Pump - Exchange # 11511406650 11531402571 x 1 Steel Coolant pipe under intake 11531318404 x 1 Connector to Steel pipe 11121318054 x 1 Maybe - Regulating valve on cylinder head by vanos?? Mountings: 22316799331 x 2 Gearbox mounts 11812283798 x 2 Engine Mounts 11611437560 x 1 Rubber cap for throttle body The quantities are not relative to the engine just numbers of parts i personally require Edited November 12, 2016 by Garett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) Update: S50B30 engine crankshaft has been polished and rotating assy is getting ready for balancing , All bearings are within spec too, i was a little worried about this one, didn't really want to go ordering oversize bearings... Edited November 12, 2016 by Garett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted November 12, 2016 Are you not going to do an oil separator delete and use a catch can instead? I would have thought with such a high powered boosted engine that removing it would make sense? Correct me if I'm wrong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted November 12, 2016 22 minutes ago, zero said: Are you not going to do an oil separator delete and use a catch can instead? I would have thought with such a high powered boosted engine that removing it would make sense? Correct me if I'm wrong. sh*t yes your dead right... will remove that from my list cheers 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted November 12, 2016 What cooling will you be using for the engine? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard 384 Report post Posted November 12, 2016 what's the cost of the engine rebuild if you don't mind me asking Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted November 12, 2016 1 hour ago, richard said: what's the cost of the engine rebuild if you don't mind me asking Nah no worries when I know total figures and for what for I'll let ya know Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted November 12, 2016 11 hours ago, zero said: What cooling will you be using for the engine? At the moment as you guys may know already I'm running a very basic Fenix alloy radiator, running a Mini Cooper puller fan, remote bottle and viscous fan removal What I'd like to do it upgrade the radiator to a thick core mishimoto type. Pretty standard cooling system at this stage Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 Thicker radiators don't improve cooling they mask issues Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 2 hours ago, crunchy said: Thicker radiators don't improve cooling they mask issues I don't think I'll have any issues with the set up I have now but time will tell... ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 Famous last words Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 3 hours ago, crunchy said: Thicker radiators don't improve cooling they mask issues In what way? increasing power output will increase heat output, so generally a bigger radiator will be needed. though ive generally found bmw radiators to be quite big and good from the factory. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 Do a google to understand how performance cooling systems work 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 10 minutes ago, crunchy said: Do a google to understand how performance cooling systems work Hey Crunchy, can u give a quick overview of what cooling you would recommend? I'm building a e46 with a m62b44 and would love some advice on the subject of cooling. Thanks mate 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 What do you guys think of this http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/ignition-electronics-efi/wideband-airfuel-ratios-from-every-cylinder-with-aem-electonics/ im may of touched on this earlier in the thread... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 Not sure i could be bothered with that many o2 sensors. if it was me and inclined that way would prob go single o2 sensor and individual egt's. but thats just me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 1 hour ago, crunchy said: Do a google to understand how performance cooling systems work Hot water comes out of engine, and with any luck cool(er) water goes back in? 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) 28 minutes ago, polley said: Not sure i could be bothered with that many o2 sensors. if it was me and inclined that way would prob go single o2 sensor and individual egt's. but thats just me. I've always wanted to have each cylinder tuned, I have access to muiltiple wideband sensors, but I find myself wondering how I'm going to read all 6 and link them into the link G4 ecu, I should have enough free ports but understand there may be a controller that may be needed Edited November 13, 2016 by Garett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 I've also got access to muiltiple egts, but how do I set up a way to read them, should I plug them straight to the ECU Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Depends how many analog inputs your ecu has. that aem controller outputs each afr signal as a 0-5v analog. so you'll need at least 6 analog inputs for that. and then for the thermocouples, if your ecu cannot take them directly (unlikely ) youll need an amplifier and another 6 analog inputs for the egts. Link g4 extreme has 11 analog inputs and im not sure if that's incl your tps, map, coolant and air temp sensors. if you incl oil pressure and temperature, fuel pressure etc you start eating up your analog inputs pretty quick. Edited November 13, 2016 by polley 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 Egts sound like the cheapest option if they will directly work.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 42 minutes ago, polley said: Hot water comes out of engine, and with any luck cool(er) water goes back in? In light of that then you dont need my input Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 15 minutes ago, Garett said: I've always wanted to have each cylinder tuned, I have access to muiltiple wideband sensors, but I find myself wondering how I'm going to read all 6 and link them into the link G4 ecu, I should have enough free ports but understand there may be a controller that may be needed Ok answer this, what are you going to do with all this data and how are you going to make use of it ? I did a 80k twin turbo big block the other week, once tuned correctly we only monitor 02 readings per bank even then the owner has no idea what to do with the data. ( Cant hold his hand even time he uses it ) Just have it tuned right to start with using the intended fuel, there is no such thing as a "safe" tune however a tune is either right or wrong end of story. if you think you have time to watch a bunch of gauges when pedaling this thing then your streets ahead of anyone else i know, set within the ecu the limits and setup warning alarms for main parameters then drive the thing as intended. Monitoring EGT's per pot is a cool thing if you were after the absolute hp even then its questionable to whether its needed, plus EGT's chill off quickly once throttle is closed and slow to respond. Like i said tune it right to start with, no Knock and dont set it on the edge, go forth enjoy it as intended. I would cover the cooling thing but that seems to be covered above. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 1 minute ago, crunchy said: I would cover the cooling thing but that seems to be covered above. I would be interested to hear what you recommend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 21 minutes ago, crunchy said: I would cover the cooling thing but that seems to be covered above. No I'm actually interested in what you have to say, as I have been through this with my own car and ended going back to a factory radiator and its fine. The only reason I originally "upgraded" it to a fenix radiator was because the power steering pump munched the old one. The fenix one was rubbish... I would google it, but as you know, the results can be misleading. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites