Garett 103 Report post Posted April 22, 2017 (edited) The other day I spend shiming the motor and think I only have to order about 10 or 11 shims as can reuse the rest to get it all within spec, the tool I borrowed from BMW made it really easy.. so 2weeks and will be ready for the old engine to com out and the new one to get fitted with all the bolt ons Will be running an oil cooler this time, a hydraulic handbrake and an accusump set up the body is almost ready, got it back from the panel shop not that long ago, with some new bumpers and removal of the tinted window it will be off to the paint shop, I wana bring it back to the original look it had when I first finished it instead of listening to other people saying you need to do this and that, make it louder... put a wing on it, make it a v8... you all can get fuct haha this is my project go get your own. Rant over. ? Edited April 22, 2017 by Garett Spellcheck 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted April 22, 2017 Sorry for the dumb question, but what is the benefit of a vanos delete? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted April 22, 2017 1 hour ago, zero said: Sorry for the dumb question, but what is the benefit of a vanos delete? Not a dumb question at all... everyone will ask this, and many different answers, I believe it's easier for the tuner which means it's going to cost me less, also when track racing a car it's mostly always up in the rev range and reducing the margin for era of having something go wrong and ruin your day, nothing worse than going to a track day and finding out after a couple of laps you have to go home because something faulted... like when I went to a drift day with heaps of new tyres and found them delaminating all tread off, 4 tyres in i was like f**k it I'm going home and sending the rest back. No doubt there are a lot of benifits of keeping vanos like more power down low for one but I don't think I need it and just another thing to go wrong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted April 22, 2017 Its a big engine plus hair dryer, Vanos is a pain in the butt and as has been outlined its a race car not 10km/hr car sitting in Aucklands peak hour traffic. Less to go wrong, as for lose of torque? Pretty dam sure the turbo will make up for that, keep up the good work Garett. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 25, 2017 Ive taken time off work this week actually the whole week, I thought I might try get this engine in, most of it is coming together okay it's just the intake runners they have been cut and missing the bolt on flange part so no way to secure them, thinking I will go past mico metals and pick up some tube and flat and give it ago and also try make an intake boot. I've found a e60 starter motor which is nice and light so going to install that as it has the same connections and should fit the flywheel as I'm not running the m20 wheel anymore. ive found the pinout diagrams for the m50 and the s50 here.. http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/1994 BMW 318i-s-c - 320i - 325i-s-c Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf Which will make it easier to swap over the link g4 im going to get it running off the standard computer first to make sure it is all good Heres a few pictures of what I've been up to the last couple of days, tomorrow morning the m50 engines coming out and test fitting the s50, I know I'm going to have to modify something on the exhaust manifold and other things I just hope it's not going to be a major otherwise It might just be cheaper to get another one made lol 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted July 25, 2017 You forgot the pics in the last post Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 25, 2017 Yeah It was late and they didn't sync to my iPad off my phone. Ive almost finished shimming the cams, every intake and exhaust are exactly the same .22 intake and .33 exhaust 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 27, 2017 Today was a battle, but winning now, bring on tomorrow!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 27, 2017 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaNs 226 Report post Posted July 27, 2017 Looking good, I have wiring diagrams also for m50 and s50. Send me your email and will send it over Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted July 28, 2017 Wow, those old mounts were munted lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard 384 Report post Posted July 28, 2017 nice whats the hammer4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard 384 Report post Posted July 28, 2017 are you running a oil pressure gauge and where are you mounting it. (best place). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 On 7/28/2017 at 9:03 AM, HaNs said: Looking good, I have wiring diagrams also for m50 and s50. Send me your email and will send it over All good bud I got em printed already Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) On 7/28/2017 at 2:02 PM, zero said: Wow, those old mounts were munted lol. They were new when they went in and didn't last very long only about 13 track days, mind you I hit a few ripple strips and ran over a truck tyre that threw me in the air lol ? Edited July 30, 2017 by Garett 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 On 7/28/2017 at 5:51 PM, richard said: nice whats the hammer4 Ha yeah that was for tapping the exhaust when fitting the clamps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 On 7/28/2017 at 5:54 PM, richard said: are you running a oil pressure gauge and where are you mounting it. (best place). Yep, it sits just above the shifter next to the boost and wideband gauges Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 Hurry up mate want to see some skid vids 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) Rocker cover bolt seals, changing them was a bitch... broke two then realised you need to put them in boiling water before you event attempt to slide them on to the bolt. I found when going to put the rocker cover on two bolts missing.. the two long m7 bolts at the front, priced them from the dealer at 40+gst each so went everywhere to try find some, no place does m7 bolts btw... so tapped the holes to m8 and helicoiled to m6 bolts... worked a treat and only cost 10 bucks. So I turned the engine over to get oil pressure then carried out a compression test before I started it, all around the 125psi mark. Started the engine using the standard s50 engine computer and sh*t it started! Must have done something right... but was running on 5 cylinders, after battling testing this and that I figured it was probably the engine computer as everything tested good so I stripped out the good things from the old engines computer and re soldered everything in, the s50 and m50tu share most of the pin locations, only differences were the injectors and ignition layout, and what had me stomped was the crank sensor pins were different the black and yellow needed to be swapped around. tried starting it again, and set the crankshaft deg to 282 it started but running very rich and still #6 not firing, so went back to basics, check the spark, the link computer has test functions, in short spark plug was faulty and not sparking, swamped it with another and tried again, still rich at 10afr I brought the fuel setting down to 4ms from 6 and ran very good at 13afr, very responcive and my god it sounds good using the tune from the m50 engine... ? Edited July 31, 2017 by Garett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard 384 Report post Posted July 31, 2017 17 hours ago, Garett said: Yep, it sits just above the shifter next to the boost and wideband gauges my bad, I should have said "connect" not mount, to the engine. As I can't fine a suitable spot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard 384 Report post Posted July 31, 2017 And don't ya love the way a freshly built engine smokes and smell on first startup 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 3, 2017 (edited) On 7/31/2017 at 2:36 PM, richard said: my bad, I should have said "connect" not mount, to the engine. As I can't fine a suitable spot. I'm running an aftermarket oil pressure sensor in the place of the factory and using it for the gauge and the ECU Thread size is 12x1.5mm same as your wheel bolts Edited August 5, 2017 by Garett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 5, 2017 Like this pic... lol 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard 384 Report post Posted August 5, 2017 innovative if anything, 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
