M50B25 E30 Help

[Scorched_onion 0]

Hey all, so have decided to swap an m50 into my 1990 318i. Which is m40 powered (slow )

Anyways. I have been doing alot of research and just wanted to clear a few things up. Have i missed anything out of this list of parts?

-M50B25 NV

-Using getrag 240 out of 318.

-E36 engine arms

-E34 sump, oil pickup, dipstick tube and dipstick.

-E28 m5 mounts

-Wiring adapter and e36 loom.

-M40 radiator (same as m42 one)

-M20 shaved 1/8th flywheel, m20 clutch and starter.

-Ebay ss headers

-E30 csb with e36 325 driveshaft.

1. Electric fan (how easy to set up?)

2. What is the ideal diff to use? primarily for good acceleration but not too noisy.

3. I am told i need to use the e36 325 driveshaft with the e30 240? why can't i just use my e30 driveshaft?

4. Which brake booster to use? one that requires the least amount of modifying but boosts well preferably.

Cheers guys.

Edited August 15, 2011 by Gapin_it

[BM WORLD 1283]

e36 engine mounting arms.

check ss/ headers will suit RHD car ..

why not use a bigger e30 325i/e36 325i radiator??

the engine will sit back further so the driveshaft will need to be shorter , also the gearshifter rods etc

gearbox mount might have to be made to suit gearbox angle??

3.46 to 3.73 diff should be ok depends what you like

use a gearing calculator to work out revs vs speed etc

http://members.dodo.com.au/~wawawa/revs.htm

select your gearbox type , tyre size and enter diff ratio's

i have a mate with a m50b25 nv type for sale

Edited August 15, 2011 by Brent HARTGE535i

[Scorched_onion 0]

check ss/ headers will suit RHD car ..

why not use a bigger e30 325i/e36 325i radiator

the engine will sit back further so the driveshaft will need to be shorter , also the gearshifter rods etc

gearbox mount might have to be made to suit gearbox angle??

3.46 to 3.64 diff should be ok

use a gearing calculator to work out revs vs speed etc

http://members.dodo.com.au/~wawawa/revs.htm

select your gearbox type , tyre size and enter diff ratio's

i have a mate with a m50b25 nv type for sale

I will be doing this on a budget which i am yet to figure out haha, and im pretty sure ill have to get manifold custom modified to fit round steering column. The m40 radiator is fine and people have used it for long periods of time with noproblems. I have read on many different places that stock mounts, transmission subframe and 240 are fine with no modification but if that is the case i dont see why i need a shorter driveshaft? which is what im confused about. Many people use 240s out of 318 with no problems but im still confused. thanks for help so far, btw how much does your mate want for that engine?

[BM WORLD 1283]

I will be doing this on a budget which i am yet to figure out haha, and im pretty sure ill have to get manifold custom modified to fit round steering column. The m40 radiator is fine and people have used it for long periods of time with noproblems. I have read on many different places that stock mounts, transmission subframe and 240 are fine with no modification but if that is the case i dont see why i need a shorter driveshaft? which is what im confused about. Many people use 240s out of 318 with no problems but im still confused. thanks for help so far, btw how much does your mate want for that engine?

the m50 engine will sit further back in the engine bay than the m40 engine so the gearbox will also sit further back so unless you can shorten your driveshaft to suit by the same amount ??

maybe 50mm???

my mate wants about $600 plus extra for the electrics.

but i am sure if you call him you can work out a deal.

listed here

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=397483486

i have some e36 mounting arms and m52 steel headers if needed

[Scorched_onion 0]

the m50 engine will sit further back in the engine bay than the m40 engine so the gearbox will also sit further back so unless you can shorten your driveshaft to suit by the same amount ??

maybe 50mm???

my mate wants about $600 plus extra for the electrics.

but i am sure if you call him you can work out a deal.

listed here

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=397483486

i have some e36 mounting arms and m52 steel headers if needed

Ah thanks, still needing to save up my funds but i would if i could. Just collecting information so i can have it done as quickly and efficiently as possible when it comes to build time. Im confused as to how the 240 will mount if i need a shorter driveshaft. But i have been told i can use stock mounts and crossmember? how does that work?

Thanks.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

-E30 csb with e36 325 driveshaft.

1. Electric fan (how easy to set up?)

2. What is the ideal diff to use? primarily for good acceleration but not too noisy.

3. I am told i need to use the e36 325 driveshaft with the e30 240? why can't i just use my e30 driveshaft?

4. Which brake booster to use? one that requires the least amount of modifying but boosts well preferably.

Cheers guys.

Your list looks good. I don't know if that driveshaft will work but an m20b20 g240 one will. Also use the shifter linkage from the same car. This is what I did on my car.

MAKE SURE the gearbox is from an m40 and you won't have the tilt issue. If you use a g240 from an m20 you will.

1/ if your car has an a/c fan use that. You probably wouldn't bother connecting it up with the m50 anyway.

2/ 3.9x if you can find one. I used 3.6x and that was fine.

3/ The reason this works is because the g240 is the same for both cars except for the bell housing. When connected to an m20 (straight 6 like the m50) it sits one cylinder further back, so using the 6cyl driveshaft makes it work. This is the ONLY 100% e30 parts bin raid setup that works, afaik. You could use an m20 g240 or 260 but then you have the tilt issue and driveshaft problems.

4/ there are a million ones to use. Look towards the Audi/vw/Porsche family. I used a Porsche 944

Edited August 15, 2011 by _Ethrty-Andy_

[Scorched_onion 0]

Your list looks good. I don't know if that driveshaft will work but an m20b20 g240 one will. Also use the shifter linkage from the same car. This is what I did on my car.

MAKE SURE the gearbox is from an m40 and you won't have the tilt issue. If you use a g240 from an m20 you will.

1/ if your car has an a/c fan use that. You probably wouldn't bother connecting it up with the m50 anyway.

2/ 3.9x if you can find one. I used 3.6x and that was fine.

3/ The reason this works is because the g240 is the same for both cars except for the bell housing. When connected to an m20 (straight 6 like the m50) it sits one cylinder further back, so using the 6cyl driveshaft makes it work. This is the ONLY 100% e30 parts bin raid setup that works, afaik. You could use an m20 g240 or 260 but then you have the tilt issue and driveshaft problems.

4/ there are a million ones to use. Look towards the Audi/vw/Porsche family. I used a Porsche 944

Ok thanks, yeah i knew about the m20 g240 and how it sits further back because of the engine being larger. My concern was if it sits farther back, then wont the mounting spots on the tranny subframe be too far foward to bolt the transmission into it?

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

Ok thanks, yeah i knew about the m20 g240 and how it sits further back because of the engine being larger. My concern was if it sits farther back, then wont the mounting spots on the tranny subframe be too far foward to bolt the transmission into it?

You haven't been under the car yet have you haha. Undo the nuts a turn or two and they slide back and forward to were you want them. Remember e30s came with lots of different engine gearbox and diff combinations but all the same shell so everything's adjustable/multifit

Edited August 15, 2011 by _Ethrty-Andy_

[Scorched_onion 0]

You haven't been under the car yet have you haha. Undo the nuts a turn or two and they slide back and forward to were you want them. Remember e30s came with lots of different engine gearbox and diff combinations but all the same shell so everything's adjustable/multifit

Ahh ok thanks i thought this could be possible but hadn't checked because my car is lowered and i can barely fit my head under haha. Thanks. So i can use a 6cyl e30 driveshaft? or is it best to use a 325 e36 one?

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

Ahh ok thanks i thought this could be possible but hadn't checked because my car is lowered and i can barely fit my head under haha. Thanks. So i can use a 6cyl e30 driveshaft? or is it best to use a 325 e36 one?

Careful. You can use a 6cyl g240 driveshaft. The 6cyl g260 one won't work. And I dont know about using e36 parts sorry.

Trouble is finding the parts to do it. You'll have fun finding someone willing to sell just a driveshaft etc not part of a conversion. I have everything you need including gearbox for 1000, could take what you have and offset price. Or can do engine as well for 3000 total a shameless plug.. But might be an option

[Scorched_onion 0]

Careful. You can use a 6cyl g240 driveshaft. The 6cyl g260 one won't work. And I dont know about using e36 parts sorry.

Trouble is finding the parts to do it. You'll have fun finding someone willing to sell just a driveshaft etc not part of a conversion. I have everything you need including gearbox for 1000, could take what you have and offset price. Or can do engine as well for 3000 total a shameless plug.. But might be an option

Alright thanks man appreciate that alot, i would be interested if i had the funds at the moment but unfortunately i do not . I am just trying to get all my information together so my conversion can be nice and smooth .

Thanks though helps alot.

If i used the AC fan wiring for the radiator fan would that mean i would have to put the ac on to engage the radiator fan? is there a simple way to wire it so it automatically turns on?

Edited August 15, 2011 by Gapin_it

[BM WORLD 1283]

Alright thanks man appreciate that alot, i would be interested if i had the funds at the moment but unfortunately i do not . I am just trying to get all my information together so my conversion can be nice and smooth .

Thanks though helps alot.

If i used the AC fan wiring for the radiator fan would that mean i would have to put the ac on to engage the radiator fan? is there a simple way to wire it so it automatically turns on?

you can use the factory thermo fan switch thats in the radiator to turn the ac fan on ,

maybe change it for one from a e36 318ti as they have a lower temp sensor and come on earlier.

2 temp settings and 2 fan speeds availible

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

you can use the factory thermo fan switch thats in the radiator to turn the ac fan on ,

maybe change it for one from a e36 318ti as they have a lower temp sensor and come on earlier.

2 temp settings and 2 fan speeds availible

Yep that's what I did. There no room for a viscous fan i there.

[gouba 0]

i have the modified gear linkage here you can have for free ( just pay for postage) it came with the z3 shifter I bought off Jacko and I dont need it (as I have my m20b25 in the car).

Let me know if you want it

[Scorched_onion 0]

i have the modified gear linkage here you can have for free ( just pay for postage) it came with the z3 shifter I bought off Jacko and I dont need it (as I have my m20b25 in the car).

Let me know if you want it

Sweet thanks mate ill pm ya.

Edit: since this is modified to suit the g260, which is on an angle. If i use it with the g240 then will the shifter be to the left side seeing as the g240 doesn't get angled when its used with m50?

Edited August 16, 2011 by Gapin_it

[Scorched_onion 0]

Also when i take out my old engine should i take out the transmission aswell? do i NEED to change to the getrag 260 shifter linkages or can i use my getrag240 shifter linkages with the new engine?

[Jacko 2156]

Also when i take out my old engine should i take out the transmission aswell? do i NEED to change to the getrag 260 shifter linkages or can i use my getrag240 shifter linkages with the new engine?

You'll want to bolt your engine to the box, and then install the whole lot as one, be a nightmare to to do them seperately.

Not sure about the 240 box and linkages, If the angle doenst change there wont be any problem, it'll be evident when you bolt it in anyway, and isnt hard to fix with and angle grinder and mig I cut the link in half, had one end on the stick, other on the box. Got someone in the car on the hoist holding the stick in neutral, had the box in neutral, one brave bugger holding both ends of the link lined up and zapped it with the mig.

A couple of other hints before you do it -

Ideally stick the engine in with the intake manifold off, the manifold gets VERY close to the heatercore fittings on the firewall, they require minor tweaking to fit. Doing it with the manifold on is no fun.

The EASIEST way to wire up the radiator fan is to go pick up a davis craig thermoswitch kit for like $60 (repco supercheap etc), a pusher fan will set ya back $40. The thermoswitch is rated for 20A current, so you dont even need a relay, its just one wire (ideally with a fuse in it). Running the A/C fan setup can be troublesome, I gave up looking for the right fittings to get the BMW factory switches and stuff into, some places wanted stupid money for one of the aftermarket A/C install fittings. I wouldnt bother even looking into it when it only costs $100 to do it with new parts, that you can set exactly what temp you want it to turn on, and very little screwing around with rubbish parts from wreckers.

As for a brake booster. 2000 renault clio is the way (you want one from a clio with plastic front gaurds), I found one at the renault/jag wreckers up north, theyre nice modern bosch booster( Unlike most golf etc boosters, which 25 years later are rusted heaps of sh*t), they bolt straight in, the onevalve is built in and even aims right at the fitting on the M50 manifold. Also have MUCH better brake feel than the stock E30 booster.

When you go M50 hunting, make sure you get a good one with everything on it, ask for odometer numbers, warranties, compression checks etc. Pull the plastic cover off and have a look at the coils etc, pull the waterpump out and see what sort of condition the coolant was in. If something looks busted, get them to replace it then and there. If they arent willing supply the above, walk away and look elsewhere. Wreckers want way too much money for tired M50's. If your paying ~$1000-1500 for a ~20 year old engine, it had better be a good engine. Learn from my mistakes

Dont forget stuff like a new o2 sensor (~600 from BMW nz, can be had MUCH cheaper overseas for the same one) new themostat/waterpump etc. Its a wise idea to put a small bleed hole in the top of the thermostat BTW, makes for MUCH easier bleeding of the coolant.

Edited August 20, 2011 by Jacko

[Scorched_onion 0]

You'll want to bolt your engine to the box, and then install the whole lot as one, be a nightmare to to do them seperately.

Not sure about the 240 box and linkages, If the angle doenst change there wont be any problem, it'll be evident when you bolt it in anyway, and isnt hard to fix with and angle grinder and mig I cut the link in half, had one end on the stick, other on the box. Got someone in the car on the hoist holding the stick in neutral, had the box in neutral, one brave bugger holding both ends of the link lined up and zapped it with the mig.

A couple of other hints before you do it -

Ideally stick the engine in with the intake manifold off, the manifold gets VERY close to the heatercore fittings on the firewall, they require minor tweaking to fit. Doing it with the manifold on is no fun.

The EASIEST way to wire up the radiator fan is to go pick up a davis craig thermoswitch kit for like $60 (repco supercheap etc), a pusher fan will set ya back $40. The thermoswitch is rated for 20A current, so you dont even need a relay, its just one wire (ideally with a fuse in it). Running the A/C fan setup can be troublesome, I gave up looking for the right fittings to get the BMW factory switches and stuff into, some places wanted stupid money for one of the aftermarket A/C install fittings. I wouldnt bother even looking into it when it only costs $100 to do it with new parts, that you can set exactly what temp you want it to turn on, and very little screwing around with rubbish parts from wreckers.

As for a brake booster. 2000 renault clio is the way (you want one from a clio with plastic front gaurds), I found one at the renault/jag wreckers up north, theyre nice modern bosch booster( Unlike most golf etc boosters, which 25 years later are rusted heaps of sh*t), they bolt straight in, the onevalve is built in and even aims right at the fitting on the M50 manifold. Also have MUCH better brake feel than the stock E30 booster.

When you go M50 hunting, make sure you get a good one with everything on it, ask for odometer numbers, warranties, compression checks etc. Pull the plastic cover off and have a look at the coils etc, pull the waterpump out and see what sort of condition the coolant was in. If something looks busted, get them to replace it then and there. If they arent willing supply the above, walk away and look elsewhere. Wreckers want way too much money for tired M50's. If your paying ~$1000-1500 for a ~20 year old engine, it had better be a good engine. Learn from my mistakes

Dont forget stuff like a new o2 sensor (~600 from BMW nz, can be had MUCH cheaper overseas for the same one) new themostat/waterpump etc. Its a wise idea to put a small bleed hole in the top of the thermostat BTW, makes for MUCH easier bleeding of the coolant.

Thanks alot mate appreciate that