Interior Fan + Windows

[Gus 5]

my interior fan doesnt work....along with a whole host of other things. cant find the fuse for it (replaced most of fuses anyway) could it be something else? possibly damaged wiring from my ham fists?

and on a second note, my windows work.....with the door open. they refuse to when im driving......highly frustrating as you can imagine..cars behind me dont like it. any ideas?

[gmccormack 0]

FL cars have an extra fuse mounted on the fan unit (not just the one in the fuse box) could it be that?

The windows........could be a fault between the ignition switch and the window relay under the glove box.

[Carl 3]

Perhaps the fan switch is buggered? When I first bought mine the fan only worked when in the max position and even then it was half mast.

Agree on the windows - there's two ways to make them work

[Gus 5]

both sound about right...where is the fan unit?

and which is the window relay under the glove box?

[E30stz 0]

The big switch on the right seems to disable the circuit to all my window motors, maybe that switch is jammed on or you tapped it at some stage or anther.

[MattA 164]

The fan unit is behind the fire wall access from the engine bay.. your window is possibly a damaged wire/connection earthing check at the doors where it goes through the door pillar you can get to the connector block through the speaker hole. good luck

cheers Matt

[gmccormack 0]

and which is the window relay under the glove box?

With one door open, push the switch that turns the interior light on and off. Hold on to each of the relays under the glovebox in turn. You will be able to feel and hear it click on and off. There should be power at the relay with the ignition on and the doors closed but also power when the ignition is off and the doors open.

[topless 13]

Gus, relay K7 supplies power to the blower fan and the fuse controlling the blower/relay is number 20 and should be 30Amp. Swap the relay with another in the fusebox in case it is faulty. Pins 86 and 30 should also have 12v with the ignition on and the relay removed. Pin 86 is the switching supply and 30 the main supply. F/L has that extra fuse also mentioned...

Does the fan work at all on full? Sometimes the blower resistor module dies and then you only get full blast.

[BM WORLD 1283]

have a look at the one of the main inline fuses thats just after the battery main power cable and the contacts inthe engine bay , where the battery sits in the 320i

[Gus 5]

last time i looked there wasnt a fuse on the actual motor...however just realised that was on the pre FL. just a bitch to get to.

not getting voltage on pins 86 and 30 for K7. other relays dont work. its not the resistors, fan was working fine on all settings until it just stopped.....now it doesnt go at all. my recirculator and AC lights dont light up either.

brent, there is no inline fuses near the battery bay?

swapped the relay that clicks when door opened....doesnt work either.

my power mirrors dont work either..possibly they are all related?

[topless 13]

Relays K5 and K7 supply power to windows, mirrors and fan. They get their main supply from a heavyish red cable that comes directly from the battery, but not the main one to the starter. Will be one of the smaller red wires that connects to the +12 terminal and goes across the firewall and directly into the fusebox. Terminal 30 on both of these relays is fed directly from the wire so should show 12v all the time. If you are not getting 12v on K7 pin 30 then this supply cable must be faulty. Check that the cable is not broken or badly corroded inside the heatshrink at the battery terminal. Stick a pin deep into it near the fusebox if necessary and connect your voltmeter to the pin to check for voltage in the cable. If you have voltage in the cable open the fusebox and check that the cable is still bolted up inside the fusebox.

Once you get 12v to the 30 pins on the relays, you should have action !!!

[Gus 5]

well ive found some of the problem

the facelift harness has an extra connector to the starter that according to bentleys goes to the load reduction relay. however the pre facelift starter motor doesnt have a prong for it to attach to. is it simply a ground? ive fiddled with the ground that is on there already and the things seem to work....however they also seems to be noise constantly independently of ignition.

does the load reduction relay need a separate ground there, from the main starter ground?

bit reluctant to simply put the facelift starter in, as just had the other one rebuilt! but will if i have to

Edited July 12, 2005 by Gus

[topless 13]

the facelift harness has an extra connector to the starter that according to bentleys goes to the load reduction relay. however the pre facelift starter motor doesnt have a prong for it to attach to. is it simply a ground?

This connection is not a ground connection but supplies 12v to the relay while the starter swings over.

If you don't use the F/L starter you can connect it using a separate relay that connects to the Black/yellow wire to the solenoid to duplicate this circuit. Connections would be as follows to a standard relay:

pin 85- lead from black/yellow starter wire

pin 86- to ground

pin 30- +12v from battery(pref with min 30A in-line fuse).

pin 87- black/green wire to load reduction relay.

As this connection only should supply 12v while the starter is swinging, it shouldn't be essential to connect it.

I don't have a full wiring diagram for the F/L, nor do I have a wiring loom to absolutely check the complete circuit so am working from experience and memory... so if someone has a F/L wiring diagram(or link) to send me it would be good....

[Gus 5]

ended up using the FL solenoid, on my pre FL starter (didnt want to swap as have had it rebuild recently). eventually figured that it supplies power with ignition....im not the brightest crayon in the box sometime. should all work nicely, did valves too...just need to do some sanding and drilling then everything back together this arvo. thanks for all ya help