kevinator9 57 Report post Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) Hi Guys, You have all been very good to me and I have yet another (tedious?) question. I have failed a warrant on the left rear drum brake leaking. Warrant sheet says 'Check rear brake balance LHR brake wet' I took this to PitStop and they said 'OK new rear drums are $95 each and rear brake pads are $90 pair. Plus 2 hours labour thats $400' Question 1. Because one is leaking does it need everything replaced? That seems a little extreme to me... Question 2. If it does need replacing, do the drums need replacing as well? I thought they were under the same general guidelines are brake discs. In other words they need to be a certain thickness and no major damage (or may need machining if that is the case). It seems like a drum would take a fair amount to need replacement. Oh and PitStop did this without even looking at the brake that was leaking let alone looking at any of my brakes... Question 3. Wondering if it worth my time to take to another mechanic to have a look at the brakes and assess them? Also managed to find brakes and drums overseas for half those prices quoted so if it is the worst case I can get those. Many Thanks, Andrew Edited June 2, 2012 by kevinator9 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted June 2, 2012 I would definitely take it somewhere else, to someone who is going to at least have a look at it! As for the rest, sorry got no answers, havent touched my drums yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Etwenty1 45 Report post Posted June 2, 2012 Hi Guys, You have all been very good to me and I have yet another (tedious?) question. I have failed a warrant on the left rear drum brake leaking. Warrant sheet says 'Check rear brake balance LHR brake wet' I took this to PitStop and they said 'OK new rear drums are $95 each and rear brake pads are $90 pair. Plus 2 hours labour thats $400' Question 1. Because one is leaking does it need everything replaced? That seems a little extreme to me... Question 2. If it does need replacing, do the drums need replacing as well? I thought they were under the same general guidelines are brake discs. In other words they need to be a certain thickness and no major damage (or may need machining if that is the case). It seems like a drum would take a fair amount to need replacement. Oh and PitStop did this without even looking at the brake that was leaking let alone looking at any of my brakes... Question 3. Wondering if it worth my time to take to another mechanic to have a look at the brakes and assess them? Also managed to find brakes and drums overseas for half those prices quoted so if it is the worst case I can get those. Many Thanks, Andrew Have just done a rear disk conversion on a '1985 318i. drums were warrantable. happy to sell parts cheap if you want. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinator9 57 Report post Posted June 2, 2012 Thanks for the offer! I will definitely hit you up if it turns out my drums are stuffed. Will still go the new pads route though (don't wanna be skimping on those). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted June 2, 2012 If wheel cylinder is leaking fluid - IT will require replacing or at least rekitting (but rekitting usually not viable). The shoes on that side are probably saturated & if they cannot be properly cleaned of fluid contamination, they will need replacing. Shoes are sold in a set - both wheels. In this case the drum will simply be contaminated & easily cleaned. If it is worn, depending on the amount - they can be machined. If this is the case & new linings are also required, it would make sense to replace cylinders on both sides, along with shoes & drum machining. Both sides for even braking. Or - a disc rear end conversion... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinator9 57 Report post Posted June 4, 2012 Oh bugger I am a silly twit. I mis-heard the guys at PitStop. I have confirmed it with them now and they said new pads, cylinders and machining of drums. So it will indeed need new cylinders which I will now be on the hunt for. They were the ones quoted at $95 each. Sorry for the confusion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nath 134 Report post Posted June 4, 2012 I definitely paid less than that for new rear cylinders on my old 1985 318i Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AN E30 Fan 1 Report post Posted June 4, 2012 I definitely paid less than that for new rear cylinders on my old 1985 318i Yep had them both done at a mechanic locally for $200 cash. $95 is a little steep Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nath 134 Report post Posted June 4, 2012 Yep had them both done at a mechanic locally for $200 cash. $95 is a little steep How is dudlee? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AN E30 Fan 1 Report post Posted June 4, 2012 How is dudlee? Still unwell, getting painted this week, just waiting on radiator and a few other bits and pieces. He'll be back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted June 4, 2012 As above, $95 ea for wheel cylinders sounds well over the top. Have replaced them on many vehicles over the years, not an E30 though. They normally retail at around the $30 mark. Check Repco, BNT etc. The linings are shoes rather than "pads" that you refer to. NB, drums may or may not require machining, there is no way they can tell without having dismantled to confirm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinator9 57 Report post Posted June 10, 2012 (edited) Thanks for your help so far guys. Up to putting on new cylinders just a question on the procedure here. Old one is off and brake line is plugged. When I put the new one on, I fit it and open the bleed valve on the back of the cylinder, get someone to put pressure on the brake (max pressure???) and then when it flows out the valve, close the valve? Is that right so far and do I do this with or without the new shoes on? I assume without. Many Thanks. Edited June 10, 2012 by kevinator9 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinator9 57 Report post Posted June 14, 2012 Thanks for your help so far guys. Up to putting on new cylinders just a question on the procedure here. Old one is off and brake line is plugged. When I put the new one on, I fit it and open the bleed valve on the back of the cylinder, get someone to put pressure on the brake (max pressure???) and then when it flows out the valve, close the valve? Is that right so far and do I do this with or without the new shoes on? I assume without. Many Thanks. Well it is all sorted. Many thanks to all who helped out, new cylinders, lines, shoes and drums are on and system is bled. I never realised how dangerous the brakes were beforehand... I guess it takes a good system to compare to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites