buying e30, need advice.

[mops 4]

Hello.

I'm currently looking at buying a 1985 E30 2 door manual 325 that has done 122000 miles. Asking price is $3500 in auckland.

I'm wanting to have a weekend car, that I could do some work on, with decent performance. I do realize it's not a new car, but i'm prepared to spend some time and money on it to make it better, just for the fun of it. THe particular one I'm looking at has been driven by older lady

It has a bit of rust, but nothing that I cant fix.

It drives allright, the only issue there I see are the gear shift bushes need replacing and brake is a little bit sloppy (i.e. i have to push it further down than than normally to brake), but it still breaks good. Performance is pretty good, exacly what I would expect from 325 (i never drove 325 beofre, i drove some 318, 320 and 323's).

My only major concernes are with the engine itself:

-valvetrain is REALLY loud. They just changed the oil with some elf synthetic. Thesed no bottom pressure (if I remove oil cap and dipstikc it doesnt blow any gases out of there -> sign of good engine), but you can hear those valves from miles. Can that be fixed with different oil or adjusting valves ?

-looking from the under of the car at the engine, it is coveded in oil and greases, like it was leaking oil from somewhere. What are the typical places those engines start to go ?

lastly, can you tell me what model engine do I have ? the car has badge 325 only (not 'i' or 'e'), the redline starts at just over 6000 rpm. Is that the m20b25 engine then ?

Are there any aftermarket ECU's that would improve engine performance ?

Thanks in advance,

I would appreciate a quick response, as I'm viewing the car sat afternoon (toomorow).

Mops.

[bimmer boy 21]

Yep it would be a M20b25

[Grant 4]

Hello

Welcome.

1) Firstly it will be the M20B25 engine.

2) Valvetrain noise is very common with E30's, and is accentuated when synthetic oil is used (as i is thinner). Don't worry about it, there is more than likely nothing wrong, normally adjusting the valves doesn't really make a hell of a lot of difference.

3) It is common for the engine oil seals to leak (more a seap than a leak). It is no big deal, and isn't expensive to fix.

4) It is expected that a Link or similar aftermarket ECU will improve engine performance, many of us have talked about doing it, but no-one has yet (for a atandard engine anyway). Andrew is on the verge of doing this. Also it means you can ditch your AFM.

5) Gear shifter bushes becoming sloppy is common too, and eay and cheap to fix.

Good luck, sounds like a good car.

Cheers

Grant

[mops 4]

Oh damn, I'm so excited.

So far it sounds good

Is the noisy valvetrain a problem ?

I mean, will that damage engine prematurly ? Or is it ok to drive with it.

[E30stz 0]

be sure to checkout this Buyers guide thread

[Grant 4]

Is the noisy valvetrain a problem ?

I mean, will that damage engine prematurly ? Or is it ok to drive with it.

Shouldn't be a long term problem, get the valves adjusted as best as possible, and then just get used to the noise.

[Carl 3]

Learn to love the ticketity tick, you'll come to appreciate the finer things in life

The Link ECU is expensive, you can just buy a chip for it with prices varying. I have 3 chips now and all three have there benefits.

[Gus 5]

the valves are like that....synthetic accentuates the noise. but its good.

the bottom end of engines are great

filth on the engine is usual for cars of this age, especially since not everyone cleans their

sh*t. oil seals do leak, the only hard one is the rear main as the box needs to come off

NZ didnt get the 'e' e30, never seen one round.

122000mi is pretty ballpark

rust is the main prob with cars of the age

before you do gear shift bushes, ask what ones to replace. it was a bit trial and error

before i figured out which ones to do, so ask us first!

put some pics up, n good luck.

[Guest Andrew]

Learn to love the ticketity tick, you'll come to appreciate the finer things in life

The Link ECU is expensive, you can just buy a chip for it with prices varying. I have 3 chips now and all three have there benefits.

i have linkizzle .

[ED1RTY 2]

Is the noisy valvetrain a problem ?

I mean, will that damage engine prematurly ? Or is it ok to drive with it.

Shouldn't be a long term problem, get the valves adjusted as best as possible, and then just get used to the noise.

Stick some nice headers and a straight through exhaust with a couple of small resonators, that'll drown out the sound! Make it nice and throaty to.....

[Gus 5]

single 2.5 with one reso and muffler

i love mine

[Grant 4]

i have linkizzle .

Sorry for the minor thread hijack here...but Andy, when is it getting installed/ dyno tuned?

Bob Homewood doing it?

Cheers

Grant

[Gus 5]

next sat being dropped

some bitch is driving the rolla to get him after

[Guest Andrew]

i have linkizzle .

Sorry for the minor thread hijack here...but Andy, when is it getting installed/ dyno tuned?

Bob Homewood doing it?

Cheers

Grant

Sat next week and yes - turbo is amount 2 months away from being finished.

[Guest Spargo]

I want to run the 2.7 against the link 2.5 before you turb's.

[mops 4]

Hey dudes.

I had a good look at the car today. I went to my mate mechanic and we lifted it and had a very good look underneath, as well inspected by 3 different mechanics.

The only thing i learned about the car is that oil pressure sensor needs replacing and waterpump possiblt might be on a way out.

I found some more rust on the rear driver flare. No structural rust. Some rust on the very bottom of where the sideskirts would normally be.

Looks like a bit of rust work, but otherwise looking good.

essentially i want your opinion guys... whether it is worth 3k ?

no rust under battery, in boot, bottom of doors , etc.

Drives very well, it's just that rust now that it is my concern, then Again, most is fixable by me.

[Grant 4]

Hey dudes.

I had a good look at the car today. I went to my mate mechanic and we lifted it and had a very good look underneath, as well inspected by 3 different mechanics.

The only thing i learned about the car is that oil pressure sensor needs replacing and waterpump possiblt might be on a way out.

I found some more rust on the rear driver flare. No structural rust. Some rust on the very bottom of where the sideskirts would normally be.

Looks like a bit of rust work, but otherwise looking good.

essentially i want your opinion guys... whether it is worth 3k ?

no rust under battery, in boot, bottom of doors , etc.

Drives very well, it's just that rust now that it is my concern, then Again, most is fixable by me.

sounds like a good deal...buy it.

Cheers

Grant

[Gus 5]

I want to run the 2.7 against the link 2.5 before you turb's.

be worried if you didnt win

its ok, ill be 2.5 for a while longer if you need a comparison

[Guest Andrew]

be worried if you didnt win

its ok, ill be 2.5 for a while longer if you need a comparison

i reckon my 2.5 link would win.. perhaps a less torque 2.5 wouldn't.

Will be interesting. Me you gus + sam for comparisons. Early Sep.

On Topic -

I say buy it.

Rust can't never be SO bad hah

[Grant 4]

Mops...you buy the car in the end?

Cheers

Grant

[mops 4]

Hello guys.

Yes, I did buy the car for $3200. So far, so good. I'll be posting many questions about how to fix this/ how to do that in the comming days/weeks.

This morning on my way to work, the car was flashing check on the dash, and when I checked the onboard computer, it told me that my screen washer fluid was low, hahah! i wonder whether it makes coffe and do dishes too ?

Planned repairs in order

1. fix leak of oil pressure/level sensor

2. Adjust valves

3. put thicker oil, so they dont go tick, tick, tick like it does now (really loud, barerly noticable on clod engine, but REALLY loud once warm).

4. transmission shift bushes needs replacing badly.

5. replace all shocks

6. fix not working passenger electric window

7. fix all rust

then I'll see what else needs doing

[Gus 5]

top notch!

oil pressure is the switch coming out of the block just below the oil filter

oil level is the bit coming out of the sump, near the alternator

there a lot of writeups about adjusting valves around the net...www.e30zone.co.uk has one.

learn to love the tick..it wont go away completely

shocks are easy, transmission bushes are easy to as long as you know what to do...ask us first

good luck...get that rust sorted and some of us on here are useful so dont be afraid to ask

[Grant 4]

In addition to what Gus says, the non-working passenger window is more than likely a switch issue. Pull the switch out and either replace it, or pull it apart and clean the contacts and put it back together.

The window switches are notorious for failing (but luckily are easy to fix).

Cheers

Grant

[mops 4]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate warm welcome.

That broken window switch might be the case, as the window winds down, but does not go up

there's an allen key stuck in the door that allows you to wind it back up :banghead:

[topless 5]

Hey Mops, how about a pic or 2???