euroriffic 609 Report post Posted November 15, 2013 So I've noticed a bad rattling noise comment from the bottom end when the motor is hot. Fine when first fired up but once it's had a run its pretty noticable and worse when it's shutoff. A d only really when its idling. Any idea what this would be? Still runs fine, just feels abit rough on idle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted November 15, 2013 hard to say, if its when hot worst case could be big ends, if you have the time and expertise doing a set of big end bearings is good insurance for a long life. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted November 15, 2013 Yea it was my plan to do all the bearings and bolts over the next few months. But maybe il be doing it abit sooner than I thought. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted January 12, 2014 So my windows started going crazy, as the drivers stopped working so checked that but was fine so put I down to control module as the passengers one started going crazy too so got a new module and put that in today and was all working fine apart from drivers window working backwards. Turns out I put the motor housing on the wrong way so spun that around and was working right again. Did notice tho that the window wasn't dropping when opening the door so must of got a sedan module. So put mine back in again and now it's working fine.... No idea why tho but will keep an eye on it and try swap the sedan one incase it does it again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 (edited) So two steps forward and one back today. got it back from the painters from getting the dint between boot lid and bumper fixed. got bumper painted too as there was a bit where the paint flaked off and got the rear window spoiler painted and put on. Then tonight put the new strut tops in but when putting the sway bar link back on it snapped the balljoint on it Hope I can find some tomorrow. But I doubt it Edited January 31, 2014 by euroriffic 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 Haha yea was upside down for some reason! Sorted now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 And it's nothing like your problem! Just a simple bolt on part for me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 Cheers Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted February 1, 2014 Just off eBay, think its in this thread somewhere. Also got a new swaybar link today too 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m3Dakar 5 Report post Posted June 8, 2014 Where/who do ya get those plate surrounds from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted June 8, 2014 Got them from andy in his German plates order. Have a look in his thread since he's doing another order. But are genuine euro plates on the M. Thought I'd better run legit haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted July 12, 2014 So a small update, the rear window spoiler fell off the other week at 100km so that needs the scratches fixed and a repaint and today figured out the banging noise in the front, was a loose sway bar link and installed the underbody brace. Seems abit tighter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted October 4, 2014 Wow! Long time no update! Where to start! Ummm new HnR springs, brake and clutch pedal bushes, slotted and plated rear rotors- fronts still to come, just finished vanos rebuild today. Was shitting myself on start up even after turning by hand but everything went well, but ruff for the first 10 secs but then settled to a nice idle. Went for a drive to run it in and pulls a lot better down low, comes on cam about 1000rpm earlier now and pulls strong all the way through and idles so much nicer and the slight miss has gone too. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted October 4, 2014 Took 3 goes to get timing right, and wrecked one of the vanos seals by got there in the end Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted October 4, 2014 What part? When fitting exhaust cylinder into housing it caught the Teflon seal and cut a chunk out of it so that was ruined, and every time I went to check timing after bolting up hubs and retarding cams it was off a tad. Third time got it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted October 4, 2014 Would check timing with cam bridge. Be fine, fully tighten hub bolts, check again and was slightly off but think that's because cams weren't fully retarded before tightening. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted October 14, 2014 So thought I'd better check timing again after been running before I sent daves tools back. Good thing I did as it was out, ughhh! Then I remembered dave saying the lock pin was bent. That would be way it's out!! So have just redone it and should be right this time! Will find out once rotated and all sprocket bolts are tight. It did feel as if it wasn't pulling as well down low as it should.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
handgrenade 189 Report post Posted October 18, 2014 Props to you and Dave tackling the b32 dual VANOS by yourselves!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted October 18, 2014 Wasn't too bad really, apart from ruining a new seal, which I got two replacements, and getting timing right. Finally!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) Wow, has been a really long time since this was updated! have pretty much just driven the thing for the last few years when I can. Have started my own electrical business and now have a one year old boy, so don't have much time for toys at the moment. Bit Have replaced the engine mounts, and a few oil changes and that's about it. have entered in a few autocross/grasskhanas, to the oamaru drags, and a few sealed hill sprints, and the clutch has been getting worse and worse. So finally ordered a new one and replaced that over the last week. This included the new flywheel, pressure and clutch plate, spigot bearing, pivot bush, new gearbox mounts, and new shifter bushes, and did the rear sway bar bushes I've been meaning to do for years. Have done a few auto swaps and a manual conversion before but to get the bell housing bolts out on this was a major pita compared to the others! But finally got it finished up today and man, what a difference. Was always hard to get a smooth shift, but now is sooo much better and tighter on the shifter too with the new bushes. So now I've replaced every bush, mount, or joint apart from the steering shaft coupler and the inner and outer balljoints. Was trying to get it done for today for a hill sprint but didn't quite get there, but is ready to go for the oamaru drags this coming weekend. My best time was a 13.9, on just road tires( non prepped track and no burn outs since it's a airstrip) and with the clutch slipping bad between gears. So hopefully this time with a new one and some semi slicks tp try should get it down a bit further. Oh,and my head liner has started sagging finally. Edited March 4, 2018 by euroriffic 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted March 11, 2018 So a little disappointed after the weekend at the drags. Best I could manage was a 14.007 sec pass. Was a warm sunny day, where as last time was overcast and cold. Will have to try some different start techniques and try again. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted October 28, 2019 Slowly been doing bits and pieces over the last year. Had a new exhaust fabbed up by a mate (JDL Engineering Timaru) with supersprint rear added later as it was just too loud as it was. made a cold air box with insulated panel that seals to the bonnet, and a big fram filter with air ducted from the brake duct, but has given a flat spot around 2.5-3k, tried to space it out from the airflow meter but no real difference, so might be going back to the factory box. Does sound good though. been putting up with a squeaky belt idler for a few years now, even though it was replaced a while back, it has finally got the better of me so replaced it with a genuine one this week which sorted that out. Hopefully lasts longer than 15-20k the last one did. also replaced the TPS since it’s in the service book to be done at inspection 1 or 2 this week so that’s done. The drivers door has always needed some extra force to shut so sorted that out too. And lastly, got some Inpro smoked tail lights on, and reminded myself to get the genuine ltw Wing sorted and on I’ve had for a few years now. So has been a busy week! 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted October 28, 2019 Oh, and also got a dereg 318i e30 coupe as a bit of a long term project. Had it a year now and done nothing with it apart from pop some tyres at our works do last year. Came with a manual conversion and a twin cam motor. But also got a loom,computer and motor from a 318ti to rebuild to go in it. and more recently got this manual 316i compact to abuse as a grasskana gravel sprint car as a basic hack and see how far I’ll go with it. Will be just stripping it out as much as I can to keep it legal. Just needed a new belt and rear strut mounts for a wof so not bad for a $1000 car! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sweetm3 180 Report post Posted October 28, 2019 6 hours ago, euroriffic said: Slowly been doing bits and pieces over the last year. Had a new exhaust fabbed up by a mate (JDL Engineering Timaru) with supersprint rear added later as it was just too loud as it was. made a cold air box with insulated panel that seals to the bonnet, and a big fram filter with air ducted from the brake duct, but has given a flat spot around 2.5-3k, tried to space it out from the airflow meter but no real difference, so might be going back to the factory box. Does sound good though. Justin, I did the air box as you decribed in my car and had it dynoed. This didn't show any flat spot. The flat spot that is decribed in many threads on the net including yours, only showed on my dyno runs after I installed my custom exhaust version 1. The dyno numbers and the solution I used are in my build project page. Be warned it's picture heavy. http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/51595-m3-evo-32-1997-hackar-part-2/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 609 Report post Posted October 29, 2019 14 hours ago, sweetm3 said: Justin, I did the air box as you decribed in my car and had it dynoed. This didn't show any flat spot. The flat spot that is decribed in many threads on the net including yours, only showed on my dyno runs after I installed my custom exhaust version 1. The dyno numbers and the solution I used are in my build project page. Be warned it's picture heavy. http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/51595-m3-evo-32-1997-hackar-part-2/ I had read your build a couple times and saw it took a few goes to get it right. Was hoping what we had done would be enough but clearly not. At one point when I was driving it back from timaru, dropped it a gear to pull out and pass and all it did was back fire like it had anti-lag and wouldn’t go any where. Had to lift from the throttle and try again then away it went and felt sluggish the rest of the trip. That was with the first version as pictured before the rear box went on. Put the factory one back on later that week since it was so loud but still hasn’t been a hundred percent since. Will have another look through your design and make some changes. But will swap out the air box and see how that goes first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
