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danutt

e39 motorsport fixing up blog thingy majig

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right so i got an e39 motorsport a few moths ago before i left the country since being back my OCD has gotten worse so i thought id start a small thread as im DIYing everything and maybe someone here can benifit from some of the repairs ill be doing who knows

to DO's-

-headlights need restoring

-foglights brightness doesnt match

-install higher diff ratio

-redo vanos seals

-new front tyres(tyre noise)

-alignment

- install new thrust arms

-install new rear aftermarket sway bar bushings

-address "tin" sounding exhaust note

-replace thermostat

-new sparkplugs new oil and filter

-skim rotors

not the most intense list of things to address but hey why not right

Edited by danutt

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First things first got some new sparkys and oil and filter 10w40 magnatec and chucked it all in the normal way haha no real need to throw up photos for this but it did make a nice difference to throttle response as the sparkys im quite sure had never been replaced-put a simota washable airfilter in aswell as the last one was well...black

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onto the thermostat...car was running at normal opperating temp while standing still but then at driving speeds it would go to cold..checked the fan clutch and it was good and working as it should(spinning semi free at cold and more difficult to spin at warm(normal opperating temp)

figured the thermo was stuck open which was great as thats better than it being stuck closed

got a new one from our mate gavin at euroitalian, was careful to remove the thermo housing as they can break when being removed and also break if miss aligned being reinstalled(sorry no pics here i didnt have much time to take it apart so was a tad rushed) still used a lil loctight soft gasket seal for peace of mind though

problem solved car remains at opperating normal temp once warmed up

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as its an e39 i could almost expect the dread wobble... i did a fair bit of research and contributing factors included everythings from control arms, brake rotors being slightly warped, tyres out of round , poor balancing even alignment...then i found better and more accurate information that pointed to the thrust arm bushings being kaput

so yesterday and today i spent approx 6 hours doing both and it was mainly because all the tools i had for the job didnt work haha what fun

easy enough to get the bushing end off and all the other neccessary parts but the ball joints were both so stuck in there it wasnt funny

i used a pickle fork and that didnt work then a joint press that didnt reach so im taking that back to the store-went to a mecahnic friend and loaned a bigger joint press which also didnt work so now ill do my best to explain what did work-here come the inner neanderthol

with the strut bolt still tight and holding the strut inplace and with the steering tie rod still connected loosely to the hub, i placed a trolley jack on some brick and proceeded to apply pressure to the thrust arm bar nearly to the point where it just just began to bend

then put another old nut on the bottom of the thrust arm ball joint thread and with a big hammer a few taps and she was loose

reinstalled the new thrust arms paying careful attention to aligning the strut with the R and L with the seams respectively and there you go

no wobble would of been a great outcome but its 99% gone, its only there very slightly and only over 100km

so now im gonna added skimming the rotors to the list -alignment ,tyres and balancing may address it a bit more aswell:)

old bushing s were torn really badly and the outer joint that goese in the hub moved far too easily

will post pics soon of new arms in (gotta get better at taking more pictures..will take more of the vanos proceedure as im quite excited to do that haha)

Edited by danutt

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I have to do the control arm bushes too - been avoiding it for months

Try Darren (forum sponsor) for some new rotors. The price he gave me for a set was sublime - barely more than you'd pay for a skim.

Free shipping within Auckland too I think!

http://www.nzad.co.nz/

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thanks mate might look into it -what rotors does he supply though? who know a good place for rotor skimming so i can compare the two thanks :)

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right so did the alignment today...toe was in on the left wheel front and out on right front wheel, that being in order now ...i think ill get some tyres with less noise:)

also sorted the fog light issue-now both are 12v 55w narva :) much better haha

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What was the brand of control arms you fitted? as their are some cheap and nasty ones out their.

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ah oem part from good old gavin at euro italian-wouldnt use the crap stuff haha they definitely made a huge difference..while i was there noticed the spring purches were out of place and after all was said and done it handles better and no wobble :)

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righto so i got some new nexen 235 40 18s for the front and walla...no more tyre drone at all awesome!!

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Got the exhaust dealt with -replaced the back boxes with one straight through muffler its not loud at all and has provided a decent deeper sound happy :) pics to follow

Edited by danutt

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heres a pic before it was sprayed up no leaks and pretty tidy considering all the bends and expansions needed to get it to for and look original with the standard tip -happy :)

post-660-0-80922800-1383860614_thumb.jpg

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well finally the vanos seals arrived-at first they went to my old address and the people who lived there just sent it back to 'murica!!so contacted beisien systems and explained myself and they were nice enough not to charge shipping the second time around an just paid for the seal again :)

it has arrived today so tomorrow (if the surfs not good) ill be going pic crazy and ripping the engine apart-gently haha

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Only a screenshot worked haha car is much smoother low end torque is much better and overall much smoother through the rev range..drives like it should now and on the last tank of gas its at just over 10kms per litre so open road will be even better much improved from its previous best of 8kms per litre haha

Old seals were exactly that..old and hard ..i bent one and it cracked and when moving the piston in and out of the vanos unit it was easy to move ...not now with the new seals in:)

post-660-0-37242300-1384848611_thumb.png

Edited by danutt

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Awesome - it makes a big difference (certainnly did on my M54 twin vanos).

I couldn't believe how hard the orings were in mine - same thing - basically turned to plastic and almost shattered. The seals basically didn't touch the sides on the bores, so I reckon truckloads of oil was gushing past. I could actually move the pistons side to side. I guess that's what happens when you use the wrong materials.

I guess that's why the seals last as long as a rocker cover gasket (at best).

Nice pics too - good to know an engine is clean inside.

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Thanks mate i always take care of my cars...so the light for low pads came on and exactly 2 hours later i was putting new pads in :)stopping is much improved and brake feel is better :) npw that theres nothing left to do and shes running superbly i think i may sell her and get a project haha

post-660-0-92680200-1384898481_thumb.png

Edited by danutt

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Hey Damian,


Where did you get the tools for the vanos seal job on your e39? My 528 desperately needs doing and i dont really want to buy tools or pay someone to do it for me! heh. I've seen people use a bar and modified C clamps as a DIY cam locking tool, however am interested in what you did.


PS. Cant send you a PM?

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Hey Damian,
Where did you get the tools for the vanos seal job on your e39? My 528 desperately needs doing and i dont really want to buy tools or pay someone to do it for me! heh. I've seen people use a bar and modified C clamps as a DIY cam locking tool, however am interested in what you did.
PS. Cant send you a PM?

+1

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PM thorburn on here he has them and will gladly rent them to you im sure..just ask nicely :)

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