E39 525i Oil Change & Gasket Advice

[sam726 29]

Hi Everyone,

Wondering if someone can please assist to point me in the right direction. I'm going to be doing the oil and filter on my 2002 525i and while that's getting done I'm going to take the opportunity to tighten up a few small leaks by doing the rocker cover gasket and sump gasket.

I suppose what I want to know is two main things:

- Where would be the best place to get the gaskets from, BMW NZ has quoted $90 for rocker cover gasket and $110 for sump gasket.

- Also what type of oil would you recommend?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

[jeffbebe 1559]

Try forum sponsors first (Gavin @ Euro Italian, Ray @ HellBM, Brent @ BMWorld). Failing that Schmiedmann offer cheap parts and shipping, particularly for smaller items.

Also heard good reports about Milland in Dunedin.

[Arma 134]

Not sure about what the 'best' oil to use would be per se, but if it helps I try to use castrol edge titanium 5w30.

Like Julian said, try call one of the above forum sponsors, someone is likely to have them in stock. Milland is also very good if no one else has in stock.

[Allanw 1071]

Are you sure the sump is leaking? The oil filter housing is far more likely - it wet's the entire bottom of the engine too.

Oil - You want BMW LL-01 AND ACEA A3/B4 in either 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 or 5W-40.

Castrol Edge at Ripco in 0W-40 A3/B4 is about $97 retail. Penrite 0W-40 A3/B4 is $50-something. There are others around, but tricky to find (although Repco is never usually the cheapest place to find anything, unless you have a good trade account).

Theoretically, just about any oil will work. If you're going to follow the oil service lights on the dash, get the proper stuff.

I get pretty much everything from Milland - he get's me genuine when I want it too.

[jonesrp 63]

I had the Rocker cover gasket done {$57) from BM parts. Cam cover bolt rubber seals ($67). Total job 2 hrs labour. Also did the oil filter housing gasket($15).

Very happy, I use Victoria Street motors in ChCh. They keep an eye on my car and are very good to deal with.

[dereklau007 1]

I agree with Allan because more often than not the culprit is actually the Oil Filter Housing Gasket and that just goes everywhere. I've recently done this and while in there I did the CCV and associated hoses.

You will still get some oil for a few weeks as there will be residual old oil around the place but now the area for me is bone dry and the bottom of the engine only has specs of old oil.

I believe to do the oil pan gasket it is quite a PITA as you have to remove the sub frame (click here for DIY link)

[Lucan 196]

I just brought a bunch of gaskets, seals and filters blah blah from Pelican parts in the states, took less than a week to get here.

You'd struggle to find much cheaper.

[sam726 29]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Got my mechanic to have another thorough look at it and he said it's definitely the sump gasket as there's oil all around the edges and below but not really around remote filter housing gasket (as though it's not dripping down). Going to get the rocker cover gasket and bolt seals off Brent, then get sump gasket sent over from online somewhere and will get my mechanic to do the oil filter remote housing gasket at the same time just as preventative maintenance.

Going to be taking it in in the next week to get a full engine service done so all those gaskets, oil filter & change, fuel filter, new cabin filters, air filter. Needs a new intake hose as one has a crack so that'll get done too. And thinking I might just do sparks while I'm at it since I have no record of when they were last done.

Anyone have any other suggestions of things to do while he has the car apart to this degree? He'll be checking everything anyway but more thinking along the lines of preventative maintenance.

What about the vanos system, anything worth doing with that?

Thanks again!

Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk

[Allanw 1071]

I wouldn't be 100% convinced of the sump gasket, though they have been known to fail.

The oil filter housing and power steering reservoir can both leak down to there. Our was pretty wet over the sump, but doing these two sorted it out. The sump can always be done at the next service, if it is still leaking (unless is a real gusher (unlikely)). That oil spreads a LONG way!

Vanos seals are a good idea! http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/39809-vanos-seal-replacement-done/page-2?hl=%2Bvanos+%2Bseals+%2Bdone%26%2333%3B#entry446648

Do the two belts and tensioners too - the bearings in them get rattley and can destroy themselves (at least check them).

Check the DISA valve in the intake - only takes 2 mins to get out, and it can destroy an engine if it comes apart.

And remember the cooling system can have issues. You want to scan for codes, because if the thermostat heater element has burned out, the engine will run hot all the time, and not run at lower temps when under load (The ECU/DME usually controls the temp via this).

[sam726 29]

I wouldn't be 100% convinced of the sump gasket, though they have been known to fail.

The oil filter housing and power steering reservoir can both leak down to there. Our was pretty wet over the sump, but doing these two sorted it out. The sump can always be done at the next service, if it is still leaking (unless is a real gusher (unlikely)). That oil spreads a LONG way!

Vanos seals are a good idea! http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/39809-vanos-seal-replacement-done/page-2?hl=%2Bvanos+%2Bseals+%2Bdone%26%2333%3B#entry446648

Do the two belts and tensioners too - the bearings in them get rattley and can destroy themselves (at least check them).

Check the DISA valve in the intake - only takes 2 mins to get out, and it can destroy an engine if it comes apart.

And remember the cooling system can have issues. You want to scan for codes, because if the thermostat heater element has burned out, the engine will run hot all the time, and not run at lower temps when under load (The ECU/DME usually controls the temp via this).

Cool I think I'll do the Vanos too as a precaution.

Soo.... So far have the following:

Pelican Parts

Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Oil Filter, Oil Pan Gasket, Outside Temp Sensor, Spark Plugs (NGK BKR6EQUP)

Brent

Rocker Cover Gasket, Bolt Seals, Oil Filter Housing Gasket, Intake Boot (mines cracked), Cabin Filters

Vanos

Double Vanos Seal Repair Kit from Beisan, Vanos Gasket + Vanos Oil Hose/Pipe Washer from Pelican Parts. Then also have some of the optional/'easily breakable' parts on my order list - oil fill neck gasket, vanos piston bolts, engine cover bolts, fan shroud rivets, radiator overflow neck.

Will ask my mechanic to check DISA and belts & tensioners when he has it apart. My list is already long enough!!

Think I'll address some cooling system preventative maintenance early next year (unless my guy picks up on something). Car doesn't run hot or take ages to warm up or anything so i think that'll be fine for now.

Anything else?! haha

Thanks for your help bimmersporters!

[Allanw 1071]

It all depends on the size of your wallet

Don't rely on an E39 temperature gauge. It'll read bang on straight up and down from 65 or 70C to about 115C (or even higher!). By the time it registered an engine getting hot, it's almost too late! It pays to check the KTMP in the secret OBC menu to see what temp the engine is running at.

Sounds like a good list. When you get to cooling, you may find the bottom of the radiator bowed out (!), the water pump may need doing, depending on your kms.

Shocks and suspension bushes don't last very long (our front shocks were 100% rooted at 115K, and probably had been for quite a while). Worn front shocks can cause bottoming, which bends the front shock towers. Easy to fix though.

Good to change any of the "lifetime" fill oils too!