Beeker2 69 Report post Posted May 27, 2014 I would be very interested to see it when finished!!! Are you in CH-CH? So far you have done an amazing job! A proud jafa But the car will be in the mainland for the one and only October targa rally of the south island. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) Ordered these (subject to fitting the car). They are F'n expensive, but when you consider that the critical thing between you and injury (or worse) is the seat, it doesn't pay to cut corners. Was originally gonna get the trusty 4009HR, but talked myself into the new 4119 which has the new three point mount system and also a rear seat vent. When on targa you get very hot and very tired; anything you can do to keep fresh will help your concentration, get better results and help you stay safe. Surprisingly i take the tall seat even know i'm 5, 11". I could have taken the std + smaller seat cousin, but didn't want to run into comfort issues when sitting in the car all day. see: Edited May 27, 2014 by Beeker2 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted May 28, 2014 Update: Dropped the car into Bellars to do a smoke test on the inlet, as there is lots of reports of lost power due to vacuum leaks on these aging cars. The good news is that there was only minor leaks around #1 and #6, and at a level that it would not affect anything. Mostly around the two trumpet seals. The bad news! Well i consider it good news, as I've avoided disappointment during a race. The CPU has logged a 'Vanos Retard valve' error, and essentially had a stuck vanos solenoid. With a ECU actuation process it unstuck itself and is now working ok. The car is now idling much smoother (no wonder with vanos stuck to high rev mode). However I'm not confident that this is a permanent fix, so i'm now committed to a vanos de-install and refurb by Dr Vanos in the US. Will get this done once the cage is in. Also... So much for my prior inspections, as the rear trailing arm bush (upper) is stuffed apparently. Glad I found that now. Will get another OEM M3 bush for it next. PS. Bellars were very good and i see why people like them. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nastnas 9 Report post Posted May 30, 2014 Update: Dropped the car into Bellars to do a smoke test on the inlet, as there is lots of reports of lost power due to vacuum leaks on these aging cars. The good news is that there was only minor leaks around #1 and #6, and at a level that it would not affect anything. Mostly around the two trumpet seals. The bad news! Well i consider it good news, as I've avoided disappointment during a race. The CPU has logged a 'Vanos Retard valve' error, and essentially had a stuck vanos solenoid. With a ECU actuation process it unstuck itself and is now working ok. The car is now idling much smoother (no wonder with vanos stuck to high rev mode). However I'm not confident that this is a permanent fix, so i'm now committed to a vanos de-install and refurb by Dr Vanos in the US. Will get this done once the cage is in. Also... So much for my prior inspections, as the rear trailing arm bush (upper) is stuffed apparently. Glad I found that now. Will get another OEM M3 bush for it next. PS. Bellars were very good and i see why people like them. I think Beisan Systems is a good option as well for VANOS repairs. Have you seen what they have to offer? Cheers, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted May 30, 2014 For parts yes, but they don't seem to offer a refurb service like Dr Vanos does. Note: Still getting my head around how much work there is on the deinstall as opposed to the actual refurb. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2429 Report post Posted May 30, 2014 Keep an eye on my project thread over the weekend and you will get an idea of what it takes to rebuild the S50B30 vanos using Beisan kit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted May 30, 2014 Best of luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) Service Crew Wanted for Targa South Island, see this link: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/49534-service-crew-wanted-for-targa-south-island-october/ Edited June 2, 2014 by Beeker2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted June 4, 2014 (edited) Mini update. Changed the rear trail arm bushes (RTAB's) myself. Started the hack way and then managed to borrow a proper RTAB bush removal/insert tool (thanks Tom). Also inserted some of Tom's limiters. First bush (hack way) 4 hours.... Second bush (right tools), approx 40 minutes Old bush didnt look so bad until you pull in it with a screw driver and realise the insert has broken away from the rubber: Old bush out new bush in (genuine BMW) hack tool to pretension (align the plate prior to tightening of the bush throu bolt) Job complete. Now just the wheel alignment. PS. There is allot of web info around measuring bush offset (generally 1/16") and re-installing the new bush as the same, but as everyone has now moved to the new bush which is symmetrical on both sides, I made the big assumption that the bush should be centered in the housing. If anyone can confirm this it would be good. ie like this, where the bush Alu outer sits outside the arm equally on both sides Edited June 4, 2014 by Beeker2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3_Power 636 Report post Posted June 5, 2014 (edited) Good to hear the tool did its job well Noel ... the gap is 2.5mm - from memory it's not quite all the way through (i.e. not completely equal on both side - outside is slightly further out) - tbh I doubt you'd notice too much difference in toe adjustment range as a result of having it equally spaced). Edited June 5, 2014 by M3_Power Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rarerimresource 6 Report post Posted June 8, 2014 Awesome read thus far, love what you've done with the place. Are you hanging onto the interior? I've got a project car that's been crying out for an M-Cloth interior for some time if you're willing to sell. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted June 8, 2014 Interior is pre allocated. Sorry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted June 8, 2014 Hope you are making mancave furniture out of the seats Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted June 13, 2014 Coming together nicely great job, ill be following this build looks like your doing a tidy job of it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted June 19, 2014 (edited) Update Started with the roof repair as it had a aftermarket sunroof in it which slightly damaged the roof when it was removed. After replacing the cut roof beam and cutting down the sunroof cassette to reglue to the sunroom surround its now got its strength back. Next the cage. Ran into a snag where you are supposed to use a special MIG wire for T45 steel. Most NZ fabricators don't bother and use the std stuff and even that passes the weld test machine they use for FIA cert, but wanted it done right so had to import some. Also ordered Vanos spares ready for that rebuild. Note the sunroof hole lip which was cut off the old aftermarket cassette and then glued back in place, ready for attaching the old sunroof panel note the careful placement of the dashbar to allow for the ventilation to still work. Also note how tight the cage is to the A pillar. Edited June 20, 2014 by Beeker2 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) E36 specific seat rails turned up from the UK. They leverage the OEM mounts and also push the seat hard against the tunnel. Saves allot of $$ with custom fabrication. Edited July 1, 2014 by Beeker2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 Cage is getting there, a few bars yet to come. Incurred a delay with the need to import some specialist T45 MIG welding wire, which then turned out to be out of stock even in the UK. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zadkiel 41 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 That is an impressive looking cage! I want this car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rgvkiwi 10 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 Beeker, you may want to double check the size of the cage footings. The engineer and I got pulled back by MSNZ on the floor plan size of ours when we built the mx5 turbo and had to make them bigger, yours currently look our first version....might just be an illusion but double check the reg's just in case. I think they recently changed the rule or changed the method of measuring them.... We submitted photos as we went so it wasn't a huge deal but had we put everything back together, painted it etc it would have been a serious pain. Also, would you mind saying what brand and where you sourced the seat mounts? That solves a particular problem I am facing.....I want to leave the standard mounts in and be able to swap race seat for oem seat as required....these sound ideal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) Beeker, you may want to double check the size of the cage footings. The engineer and I got pulled back by MSNZ on the floor plan size of ours when we built the mx5 turbo and had to make them bigger, yours currently look our first version....might just be an illusion but double check the reg's just in case. I think they recently changed the rule or changed the method of measuring them.... We submitted photos as we went so it wasn't a huge deal but had we put everything back together, painted it etc it would have been a serious pain. Also, would you mind saying what brand and where you sourced the seat mounts? That solves a particular problem I am facing.....I want to leave the standard mounts in and be able to swap race seat for oem seat as required....these sound ideal. The cage is a FIA cage from Custom Cages in the UK. It will be certified by them under FIA rules and then cross certified by MANZ. As such, NZ rules don't directly apply. The seat mounts are sold by a few difference people, but i got them from these guys: http://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-bmw-e36-and-e46-seat-frame-316-318-325-328-m3-seat-rail.html Edited July 1, 2014 by Beeker2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nhaden 0 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Beeker. Looks good. A few questions: Will you weld the A pillars of the cage to the A pillars of the car (probably with the windscreen out)? You can do the same with the B pillar and possibly roof bars. I assume the seat won't be too close to the tunnel because you need to get the lap belt into it? Why attach to the side of the rear strut mount rather than the top - or is there other reinforcing there? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Beeker. Looks good. A few questions: Will you weld the A pillars of the cage to the A pillars of the car (probably with the windscreen out)? You can do the same with the B pillar and possibly roof bars. I assume the seat won't be too close to the tunnel because you need to get the lap belt into it? Why attach to the side of the rear strut mount rather than the top - or is there other reinforcing there? My understanding is that we'll weld it to the frame wherever we can, especially the A Pillar. This has been proven to be the strongest method to build a cage. There is an additional A pillar support bar yet to be installed. The belt eye bolts are normally installed just behind the seat, so that'll still work. The rear bars mounting to the strut is part of custom cages FIA design. They know they stuff. Yes its reinforced. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2052NV 43 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 HOLY COW that cage is amazing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted July 2, 2014 Vanos parts, in prep for that refresh. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted July 3, 2014 (edited) Sump plate > Thick 6mm Marine(stronger) alu > T45 steel hoop bracket up to chassis rails. Removable by way of a plate which is welded to the chassis with nuts inserted in that > Front of guard has a hole for a spigot which is attached to the jack, allowing for secure jacking. > rear is attached to the X brace > All bolts recessed Edited July 3, 2014 by Beeker2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
