E36 M3 Targa Car Build

[Nobimmer 694]

That's a rad looking cage!

[Beeker2 69]

That's a rad looking cage!

On targa there is heaps to hit!!

This is a hack drawing on the extra bars. Remember they are T45 so a little lighter than normal steel

Edited April 2, 2014 by Beeker2

[Beeker2 69]

More arrivals

Group N Oil Restrictor for S50B30, else head gets too much oil which cant drain fast enough

OEM X brace to stiffen the front and provide extra sump protection

Edited April 3, 2014 by Beeker2

[Steve K-B 51]

Epic cage! sh*t I cant wait to see this :-)

[Beeker2 69]

[Beeker2 69]

Apex 17" ET40 8.5" to clear my AP BBK

[Beeker2 69]

This is the weld test that Dan had to do for Custom Cages. I need to ship it back to the UK for them to certify his work. I believe they twist it until it breaks. Only welders which support a minimum twist strength get the pass certification.

[Beeker2 69]

Suspension is in.

Was planning for a refurbed and revalved PS9 kit (1x way adjustable), but the front shocks were too long enough.

As a result i have PS9 in the back, and custom valved bilsteins in the front.

We're starting with 300lb front and back and will tune it from there once the cage is in.

Its height adjustable front and rear, and uses OEM spring locations on rear (non coilover, but still height adjustable) as thats a stronger setup.

I'm treating this as a get started setup, and would like to go 2 or 3 way adjustable later. Big $$ thou...

Chris from Suspension tech did the work. He's done 4 cars for us now, and always sets them up well.

The car is setup quite high, in fact could be higher than factory. Reason being is that you need compression for targa, else you can bump yourself right off the road....

A few pics:

Note the black ring around the centre. Thats the BMW OEM strengthening plate that sits underneath.

Note the Turner Motorsport strengthening plate

New wheels are on in prep for the AP Racing BBK install project for Sunday.

Edited April 13, 2014 by Beeker2

[Beeker2 69]

Installed.

Yet to install rear braided brake lines and bleed.

Apex wheels clear the Essex AP's by miles. Can shove my little finger inbetween.

[KwS 2429]

mmmm, very nice wheel and brake combo!

[M3_Power 636]

You need an oversized washer (one larger than the bottom shock lollipop) between the bottom shock mounting bolt and the bottom shock mount bush (google if you don't believe me) ... otherwise that bush will pull out of the shock. Amateur mistake on that install!!! I'd be concerned.

That shock should also be spun 180 degrees or swapped left to right ... one side of that bushing has that lip on the inner bolt guide, but flush on the other side .. the flush side faces the outside.

Edited April 13, 2014 by M3_Power

[Beeker2 69]

You need an oversized washer (one larger than the bottom shock lollipop) between the bottom shock mounting bolt and the bottom shock mount bush (google if you don't believe me) ... otherwise that bush will pull out of the shock. Amateur mistake on that install!!! I'd be concerned.

thanks, will look into that.

That shock should also be spun 180 degrees or swapped left to right ... one side of that bushing has that lip on the inner bolt guide, but flush on the other side .. the flush side faces the outside.

Excuse my ignorance, if you spin it 180 degrees, wont the dial then be facing fwd?

So, swapping sides is best?

What's the consequence of having this installed as is ?

[M3_Power 636]

Excuse my ignorance, if you spin it 180 degrees, wont the dial then be facing fwd?

So, swapping sides is best?

What's the consequence of having this installed as is ?

I'd just swap the shocks so the dial is facing backwards for easy adjustment. It doesn't really matter which side the dial is facing, but having the flush side against the washer and the bolt serves the very purpose of keeping that bush in its place.

Make sure that the washer is larger than the lollipop that hold the bushing.

[E30-323ti 66]

Looking good.

Further to M3_power's invaluable input.

If you are likely to keep soft rear springs, look at getting the Barrel shaped ones (Voltgand (VSS) do them for use with adjustable perches and a variety of rates, also the ground-control kits use this shape spring).

You'll see the ones in M3-powers' pick have the top/bottom coils of a smaller diameter.

The cylindrical springs will make a mess of things when/if they coil-bind, Also check if the bumpstops are still functional Vs the spring 'block height' and with that threaded perch up the top.

And the gospel inner-web will tell you it's all fine, but most 'inner-web gods' in the US of A are running 700 to 1000 lb springs in the rear on track-only cars.

ps. If you didn't already know, the quickest way to check for coil-bind is, to stick a zip-tie on one of the coils. As it just get pinched and goes missing if you have a problem.

[Beeker2 69]

Looking good.

Further to M3_power's invaluable input.

If you are likely to keep soft rear springs, look at getting the Barrel shaped ones (Voltgand (VSS) do them for use with adjustable perches and a variety of rates, also the ground-control kits use this shape spring).

You'll see the ones in M3-powers' pick have the top/bottom coils of a smaller diameter.

The cylindrical springs will make a mess of things when/if they coil-bind, Also check if the bumpstops are still functional Vs the spring 'block height' and with that threaded perch up the top.

And the gospel inner-web will tell you it's all fine, but most 'inner-web gods' in the US of A are running 700 to 1000 lb springs in the rear on track-only cars.

ps. If you didn't already know, the quickest way to check for coil-bind is, to stick a zip-tie on one of the coils. As it just get pinched and goes missing if you have a problem.

thanks for that. Will Zip tie it soon.

[M3_Power 636]

Looking good.

Further to M3_power's invaluable input.

If you are likely to keep soft rear springs, look at getting the Barrel shaped ones (Voltgand (VSS) do them for use with adjustable perches and a variety of rates, also the ground-control kits use this shape spring).

You'll see the ones in M3-powers' pick have the top/bottom coils of a smaller diameter.

The cylindrical springs will make a mess of things when/if they coil-bind, Also check if the bumpstops are still functional Vs the spring 'block height' and with that threaded perch up the top.

And the gospel inner-web will tell you it's all fine, but most 'inner-web gods' in the US of A are running 700 to 1000 lb springs in the rear on track-only cars.

ps. If you didn't already know, the quickest way to check for coil-bind is, to stick a zip-tie on one of the coils. As it just get pinched and goes missing if you have a problem.

Couldn't have said it better myself.

Definitely go barrel springs if you are running soft rates (below 600lb) in the stock position otherwise I can guarantee you that you will get coil bind under dynamic load (ask me how I know LOL).

If you switch to full rear coilover setup then you can run much softer spring rates for full control.

When the springs are at the stock position the dynamic ride movement is basically mm in control.

Also as suggested above, the Ground Control barrel springs are well designed together with their pivoting spring plateform - as the full articulation in that spring position isn't linear when measured.

[Beeker2 69]

Dyno test performed. All looks healthy at 172.5 wkw (completely stock).

Anyone else done stock e36 M3 3.0 at Torque Performance dyno?

Edited April 15, 2014 by Beeker2

[Beeker2 69]

Ran into some small issues yesterday. When arriving at Torque for the dyno run it made a very metallic grind on lower speed tighter right hand turns (not full lock). Not in reverse. Yet it didnt do this when driving the night prior and bedding in the brakes.

Once we pulled the wheel off, we discovered the right had suspension knuckle was rubbing on the back of the rotor here:

This wasn't happening on the left, only the right.

As its a cast item and a bit ruff in shape, we ground some of the raised bits off.

So far so good as a fix, however haven't conclusively decided its resolved just yet.

We've repainted the knuckle to see if it rubs again.

In talking to Kaine Barrie its a common problem i'm told.

Edited April 15, 2014 by Beeker2

[hybrid 1044]

Dyno test performed. All looks healthy at 172.5 wkw (completely stock).

Anyone else done stock e36 M3 3.0 at Torque Performance dyno?

Here is a list of the cars at the last dyno day

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/46436-auckland-dyno-day-results/#entry503984

[E30-323ti 66]

Ouch - wouldn't have thought they would cut the clearances that fine - Best drop the spring (wind the perch right down) and check the full bump travel.

Here is a nice fix for the problem from Bimmerworld but you're not allowed to weld the roll-centre spacers to the spindles in Nue Zuland

[Beeker2 69]

Ouch - wouldn't have thought they would cut the clearances that fine - Best drop the spring (wind the perch right down) and check the full bump travel.

Here is a nice fix for the problem from Bimmerworld but you're not allowed to weld the roll-centre spacers to the spindles in Nue Zuland

Are the evo arms different?

[sweetm3 180]

I had the same issue on my 3.2, when I fitted my USA BBK. I contact the supplier and they sent out different hats.

I just put it down to Euro M3 v USA M3 suspension geometry

[hybrid 1044]

basically the american 'm3' is watered down more than a two year olds juice packet.

[E30-323ti 66]

The EVO arms are different, namely the Outer ball-joints sits further forward, but still centrally in the control arm hole.

There should be no difference between the pre96 and +96 (EVO) balljoints themselves that the BW kit replaces with the offset bearing.

Whilst the US of A got a bored & stroked M50, all the suspension is per the euro spec, EXCEPT the brake rotors, which they got as conventional 1pc cast iron, not the 2pc floating alloy/iron rotors of the euro market.

BUT they are dimensionally the same 315x28 with a 52.5mm height, and many in the grand ole US 0f A have used Euro Rotors on their US Spec M3's.

EDIT: The only other factor would be the thickness of the rotor hat (Alloy Vs Iron), but this would be so small, as the rotor still needs to run centrally within the caliper-carrier.

Edited April 16, 2014 by E30-323ti

[sweetm3 180]

The EVO arms are different, namely the Outer ball-joints sits further forward, but still centrally in the control arm hole.

There should be no difference between the pre96 and +96 (EVO) balljoints themselves that the BW kit replaces with the offset bearing.

Whilst the US of A got a bored & stroked M50, all the suspension is per the euro spec, EXCEPT the brake rotors, which they got as conventional 1pc cast iron, not the 2pc floating alloy/iron rotors of the euro market.

BUT they are dimensionally the same 315x28 with a 52.5mm height, and many in the grand ole US 0f A have used Euro Rotors on their US Spec M3's.

EDIT: The only other factor would be the thickness of the rotor hat (Alloy Vs Iron), but this would be so small, as the rotor still needs to run centrally within the caliper-carrier.

mmmm I'm interest then why this knuckle rubbed ?