1993 530i V8 5 speed Manual M60b40 swap

[BM WORLD 1282]

yea 328i and m3 use similer things etc , almost the same as the 3l v8 etc as well.

i have had clutch pressure plates redone with a more grippier carbon kevlar material , more bite .

also can get the pressure plates ramped up so have more clamp pressure as most bmw ones are pretty soft.

i had a std e28 m5 pressure plate in my e28 and under hard driving would slip

have a modified one with a carbon kevlar disc in there now has been great use it at the track all the time no slipping etc.

makes the clutch a bit more like a switch , but you get used to that pretty quick.

pretty much just foot off and the car moves on =)

but if you car is just going to be used std then std will do

[kiwi328i 118]

Knowing that the base 530i oem flywheel and clutch kit would probably die fairly quickly if I was to drive it like a rental, I decided upon looking at alternatives. The problem with knowing what you don't want, i.e. standard is a good starting point. Knowing where to stop knowing all along being a car guy, you are probably going to buy something you don't REALLY need to is the problem..., but it gives you a nice 'cushion' should the need arise. I knew I didn't want a twin clutch set-up or a V12 280mm aluminium flywheel conversion either, because that would be ott, so I pegged it back to where I am now. It's so easy to go overboard. Many guys I see with the 530i to 4.0litre conversions I noticed actually underestimated the torque, by using uprated 328i clutch kits, so I also wanted to get a level above that. The stories of dying oem dual mass flywheels, also put me off using the std flywheel, so what I am came up with is a Frankenstein approach, that hopefully works. If by Joe the bloody pressure plate starts giving me grief I would uprate that as the next step I guess for more clamping strength, again I will probably try to modify it, or hell modify the oem one, which looks mechanically similar, I can use it as a guinea pig now I guess.

[kiwi328i 118]

So I wasn't thinking about doing any work today, but the bro was keen. I go some new pressure plate hex heads, like the originals, and $40.00 worth of new flywheels bolts, std ones are still in the original d.m flywheel, and the donor M60b40 auto ones are only 30mm. So I bought 40mm, not as good a grade as the oem bmw ones but good enough, a bit of medium blue threadlocker and its in there. No clutch alignment tool, so I hope my eyechrometer is bang on. There isn't a whole lot of space between the sprung hub and the heads of those flywheel bolts but hey?

I put a new pilot bearing in as well, remembering an auto wont have one.

Finally wriggled the engine in, I can see why doing it without the exhaust manifold on is probably the go. It's tight alright, and there is a bit of wrestling, but it's o.k. More wrestling getting the input shaft in as well, but it went in eventually. Trying not to munt the engine mounts, cause I really do not want to pay for new ones, one of the bolts got a bit munted, I am guessing if you get them really wrong, the oil will probably piss out all over the place or disintegrate the thing? Looks ok, and still got an extra one there if it is damaged.

New plastic pivot thing, new wire thing that keeps it there, a bit of grease on all of the friction areas including the input shaft. Got the bellhousing bolts on, well 3 of them before the cats and dogs came down in a hurry. All in all a great mornings work.

This is what I have been using pulling things in and out, an old swing frame. Poor kids, I am sure they understand.ha.

Left hand side, looks pretty untidy, another day though and I could have most of this back together

Right hand side, again, looks like crap, but its in and yeeeeharrrrrrgh.

Another day void of rain, and I think I might be close to giving it an initial start.

[kiwi328i 118]

Another day. Cleaned up the manifold, took the PCV off the 3.0 as it was god and the donor was damaged. Cleaned inside with petrol. The donor fuel rail was damaged too so swapped that out, replaced both front and rear manifold gaskets, re-cleaned intake manifold gaskets.

Engine mounts check, one bolt was turning so lifted the engine to create tension and banged it in, should be fine.

Exhaust back on check

Flywheel bolts check bar 2

Transmission mounts back in check

Tensioners in check

Belts replaced check

power steering crap, all back in, major headache

Throttle body, realizing the 4.0 is bigger, cleaned that up. I moved the as much of the original stuff over, as its a little different

Breather pipe o-ring replaced put the manifold on

Hooked up all the knock sensors and other sensors

Radiator in, top and bottom hoses in

Rear accumulator hoses on, replacing as many of those b-stard bmw hose clips

Cleaned all of the fuel injectors I was going to use the 3 litre ones as I know they work, but bugger it cleaned the 4 litre ones up and put them in, time will tell.

Starter motor in and seems to mesh properly

Put fuels lines on, and took forever, why bmw designed the fuel rail that way, I don't know, access is super ridiculous.

overflow back on.

Still have to paint the valve covers and put all that on, then I will be very close to giving her a first start

Heck I just remembered, better put some spark plugs in

[kiwi328i 118]

So anyway it's another storm of the year so I have to do the valve covers in the garage. I am going to use the VHT wrinkle plus black. You need heat. I goggled loads of stuff on how people have used it to best effect. It looks like a bugger. Mixed results using any method is what I gleaned so I just went for it.

Here is your average, paint peeled valve cover.

And another view, don't know where my images of them off are but you get the idea.

So I got them media blasted a month ago or so. I cleaned them up with a drill with a wire brush wheel head and cleaned them up because they were already well oxidizing. I know I should have primed them straight away.

I then primed them in a flash etch spray can black, cant remember now, but coverage was ok. I made sure you hit where the seals go, because you want that area coated. I aint going to paint that with wrinkle, because that would be daft. You want a smooth area for sealing sake. And you don't want it exposed either as it will oxidise, so just careful spray strokes and cover as best a you can.

So I tried the fairly heavy decent coat with 5 mins in between, 3 coats in all.

Here's the results:

Together, I had them further apart when I actually painted them because you want to be able to move around them. Just drying here.

All in all, I am more than happy with the results considering its a bit of a black art.

After the three coats I almost immediately hit them with the heat gun. I don't have a flash one, so I don't know the temperature, but hit them both well. I saw some absolutely terrible ones on the internet, with the exact same product and though feck that if they turn out like that. They were either just worm lines in the mud effect or glunky (tech term) muddy yuck effects. I got what I wanted. My guess is the hitting them with heat before it gets to dry 'properly' on the last coat. No need for an oven. My garage was cold as, and that probably helped slow down the time too. I think I would have done a better job, one at a time so you can focus your timeframes better. But heck 80% of this is under cover anyway so what the hey?

I also bought, some oil, antifreeze, fuel injector cleaner, so as soon as that sun peeks over...I am in there!

[2052NV 43]

Those covers look good man!

[francoisv 466]

They do look really good!

What coat did you use? and where did you get it from? Im in need of something like this for the rear of my ute

[kiwi328i 118]

Cheers guys,

The product is called VHT Wrinkle plus. You can get it from Repco or Supercheap I think. I got it from an automotive paint shop in Rosedale I think, but it shouldn't be to hard to find in a shop. You need a primer, get a good one for metal, there are so many to choose from, luckily I was in an automotive paint shop, good luck if you are getting advise from some of the more common shops. You need to get all that flakey crap off too, and if you are doing magnesium/aluminium valve covers, you need to have them blasted I reckon.

I aint an expert, just a tutu really.

[francoisv 466]

Sweet, ill go have a looksee. I used this Matte Black coat designed for heaters once, it worked really well. Only problem now is that its $35 a can from Mitre10 or Bunnings

[yng_750 247]

Supercheap have to order it and freight bumps the price up so last time i got a couple for use in future projects toi

[jeff002 23]

I did mine with falcon blue.lol

[kiwi328i 118]

I didn't take any photos yesterday, and whilst the storm was blowing shite everywhere, I thought I better get it down.

The thing I had to worry about was all the crap falling into the engine, so I did my best, but it was far from ideal. And it was cold.

But I got some things done.

Silicone the valve cover gaskets in a few places so it doesn't fall it whilst wringling the thing in there. Silicon the half moon areas on the heads themselves and the where the head joins the timing cover as its not perfectly flush. Drivers side is always a marnus as it fouls everything especially the aircon pipes. Passenger side same thing, slightly easier. Clean all of the nuts, washers and rubber grommets. The grommets where covered in bits of old paint. I am so glad I did those covers, as the old paint goes everywhere.

Pulled the old sparkplugs that were oiled to the max. Put my old ones back in, same NGK's and looked only slightly better.

this was done at night, so the next time I look hopefully I haven't totally stuffed it.

[kiwi328i 118]

ok,

so it stopped raining today, mean as, I am in.

Plugged in Oil Level sensor

Cable tied things that had broken

Coils on

injector rail nutted down

oil in

power steering fluid in

coolant in

fingers crossed

So I kicked it in the guts, and after a few cycles it started

Bit rough to begin with, a bit of smoke

Idling high, but after 10 mins it was better

Smoother too after 10 more mins, but still a bit high

Oil level low light on and its late

I reversed it down the drive, clutch is fine, standard basically, and forward, same deal, just like oem, I don't have the lights on yet, so couldn't give it a fand down the road

It got a bit hot

Tomorrow will be more oil, track down the ambient temp sensor as this might be affecting the idle

Feck knows what else could affect the idle

Hopefully cooling down tonight any air locks should take care of themselves

Will take some photos tomorrow if its fine!!!

ye har

[sonic_attack 89]

Nice work!

[BM WORLD 1282]

good work

did you check the oil pump bolts havn't come loose??

also the oil pressure switches often fail on these,also check for broken wires loose conections etc.

have you checked the ICV is free and not sticky etc, check for air leaks too.

[Young Thrash Driver 1020]

Love what you're doing here, great project!

[kiwi328i 118]

Thanks everyone.

Well I got some more oil.

I was trying to think of all the things that couls be attributing to the higher than usual idle. I remembered that little squiggle of a vacuum tube hanging off the fuel rail. Yes, to be sure, it was still there not connected to anything, so I put that back on the rear of the PCV. Put oil in, started it up, and it ran well, idle is now in the high 600's, which is better, ran smoother too, I am guessing the ECU may have come on board too, either late last night or maybe it had a wee think about things overnight, who knows?

It soulds good.

So the only problem at the minute is, the following

Low beam dip, or similar, which is I am gussing because the lights are not connected

Water fluid low, because that isnt connected either

Oil level low, now this bugs me, because I used the 4.0 litre oil pan. It is different, I dont know what the donor was, but the donor pan comes with an integral gasket for the oil level sensor. The 3.0 litre does not, it has an O-ring instead. As the donor oil level sensor was cut, I used my 3.0 litre original as it fits. I just didnt use the O-ring and it fits the integral gasket on the 4.0 litre oil pan just fine.

I checked realoem and low and behold there are 2 types of oil level sensors for the 2 separate pans. Maybe I cannot interchange them? If I cant work it out tomorrow, I will change the pans over. Rather not though.

Hey Brent,

"

did you check the oil pump bolts havn't come loose?? Oh yeah nothing had come loose, but I tightened them all up for good measure

also the oil pressure switches often fail on these,also check for broken wires loose conections etc. I kept the original one, and as long as it doesnt bring up a message, all good.

have you checked the ICV is free and not sticky etc, check for air leaks too." These are all good.

So I dont think I have oil pressure problems, the car rusn too well, and I tightened everything. The oil dummy light is on, and I am guessing it is due to the low oil level, NOT the pressure. Need another day.

[BM WORLD 1282]

These things hold about 8.5 litres of oil ,

oil pump bolts should

Be checked as they work them selves loose,

[kiwi328i 118]

8.5L? Well that explains that I guess. It's between the 2 on the dipstick, but I will have another go tomorrow, if it is just a matter of volume, I will sort it easy.

I checked all of the 10mm and 13mm bolts in and around the oil pump, none were really loose, just some not as tight as you would expect it to be. I didn't bother cleaning and thread locking them. The tension looked about right so left that also. I guess I was lucky with this donor motor.

Cheers Brent.

[kiwi328i 118]

O.k.

So 2 nights ago I ticked a few boxes.

Got the lights in, bloody plastic bits are half gone, so I will at some stage get the fiberglass out etc.

Got the bonnet on, which really should be done with 2 people, or its painful.

Got the right amount of oil in which must be nay on 9 litres. I was soo worried about the oil level sensor and different oil pan....and heck it didn't have enough oil. I was thinking of my 328i coupe that took 5 3/4 litres...egg.

Put some water in the wiper thingy..which has a crack where it connects to the car...more fiberglass, but at least I know the level sensor for it is working.

I was still having the oil lamp icon turn up on my dash, which went away as soon as you gave it the berries. Whilst I didn't have a "low oil pressure" message on the dash, I was still miffed. As I know those oil pump bolts were tightened, I doubted it would be the pump. Just as well Brent mentioned "also the oil pressure switches often fail on these", so after some faffing around I got the 3.0 on there. That sorted that and the icon has not returned.

So up until last night, no messages, sounds o.k...except the high idle.

I cleaned both I.C.V's that I have, same part number but as nothing from the donor was worth anything, honestly the previous owner of whatever it was, must have just driven it to death! I used the 3.0 one just in case.

I called Brent and I concurred, everything else being equal, it could only be the throttle position sensor (tps). The 3.0 one was burred, so more faffing around, bang bang with a dot punch, switched them over and wallah.

I kicked it in the guts...

My idle went to 750, and I thought, well that's much better, but not perfect, as I know my old 3.0 was around 500-550. In about 2 mins it had settled to 500-550 and I am over the moon.

so I let that idle.

Last night I re-silicone-d the little tabs that hold the engine cover, they look mint now, 2 of them were totally broken and the other 2 were about to be. Engine cover on. It has been a journey.

Now I just need to take it easy for a bit to bed that clutch and flywheel but I cant see any problems as it works as it should at the moment, I am guessing it can only get better.

After driving the car, I have just affirmed myself that I will keep the 3.07 and wait for a suitable lsd centre to fall into my lap and do that.

Thanks to all of your comments especially Brent the E34 guru.

I did a small video of the idle but you can only upload 2mg...oh well.

[kiwi328i 118]

o.k, got most of it all together.

It was idling when coolant starting pissing out all over the place near the rear. I have no idea where, but I am guessing its the valley pan, but I hope not, I was hoping a loose hose clip wa off, the car got hot then started coming out the overflow under pressure, didn't get too hot,maybe 1pm position.

Next job...finding the leak, have to pull flippin manifold off etc etc

[kiwi328i 118]

Ok,

So I went on holiday to Europe for 5 weeks and other stuff happened.

So where was I...oh yes car started and ran well, but there was a coolant leak somewhere, and it looked to be coming from the valley pan area. Under the manifold at least.

Weeks alter I bought a Uro valley pan with membrane attached. 2 weeks later I cleaned it up o-ringed everything and tightened it down...yippee

2 Weeks later its leaking, from what looks like the same area. I borrowed a pressure tester from work. Flash alright, it showed me what I already knew. It was leaking at the valley pan gasket. 2 weeks later I pull it apart. The membrane is split in two going all around. It's mustard. I clean up the original, with some 60 grit sandpaper or whatever was closest to me and did some good ole fashion googling.

After a time I buy some permetex 'the right stuff', it is supposed to be pretty good in areas like this, i.e. crap areas that like to leak all the time.

So I clean it up, clean all the bolts on a wire machine thing, Loctite them nicely, I even bought a nice 1/4" torque wrench. I noticed one of the bolts wouldn't go in straight so got a shorter one and that was better. It must have been one of the three that I had to drill out that must have had some dregs left.

As you can imagine I have m6 and m8 bolts of many sizes due to the swap over, so I used a shorter one. I used the permetex on the valley pan, nice and square, torqued to spec and prayed to god, using many swear words as possible.

Apparently it works straight away, the skeptic in me won me over and I left it overnight then some. No need to re-torque apparently.

I put it altogether and...

well it ran, and it didn't leak, but the idle kept hunting like a real mongrel. I swapped some stuff over...

There was a coil soaked in oil and was running on 7, so swapped that out. No leaks anywhere... I used crc, and it is still hunting and going up and down sporadically it was here when I went googling and I thought, I am stuffed without a diagnostic thing (whatever they are called), and I cant be bothered swapping everything over, only to find it is something I cant find..

I swapped in the old (cant remember which one actually, but the other one), the other TPS and coil looking thing. It ran, it stopped hunting, I also changed a temp sensor from the rear accumulator, could have been any one of them, but I don't care. It runs like a dream, before today, it never ran under 750rpm. Now its between 650-700 and its the best it's ever run.

So the swap is complete, well complete and running like it should. I have parts for Africa, and I hope I never have to use them, but it's fair to say, they are there when I will need them.

Going to throw the 3l to the recycle guys.

The clutch feels different, better? Don't know but it can handle the power for now, it should be run-in by now, and I have taken it for a good blast.

Best ever mod for a 530i 5 speed by miles.

Next on my list is to go to 17" alloys as my 18x8.5 Hamanns are probably a tad too big for the HD billies and stiffer springs and spherical this and that. Then there is the glovebox to fix...

[kiwi328i 118]

Here you can see the different sizes. It ran fine with the smaller maf and airbox, but why not go the whole hog?

Thanks to Brent I have bought the another airfilter for an E34 540i.

I swapped the top with my bottom, the 540i one had an extra hole? It is supposed to be there, but it isn't in a place that is good for drainage, anyway when in doubt use the original till proven otherwise.

Bolted it up, and its awesome, same as. No leaks or anything. The secondhand MAF off trademe works as it should to, for all intents and purposes mechanically it is like any other 540i. I think the ecu's are the same, don't know for sure, but I am going to get it chipped. That should do me!

[BM WORLD 1282]

well done . 3L and 4L ecu's use different maps etc

I have spare 4L ecu and also a customer remapped one etc

[kiwi328i 118]

Brent you are encouragable I tell ya!

So tell me about this remapped one?