E34 v8 flywheel removal

[kiwi328i 118]

Help!!!

I have taken off the pressure plate, and the engine is on the ground. I have hammered the crap out of the torx t55 on my 530i and it aint coming off. Yes I am using a proper impact driver thingy. I don't think bmw really thought about ease of removal during this part.

How did you guys do it?

I will have another crack at it, but I think I am going to drop the bottom and remove the crank. I need the flywheel itself to go to the engineers, I wont be using it or the rest of the motor for that matter.

Cheers

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

if the engine isn't critical, maybe a breaker bar? you will need to come up with a solution to stop engine rotating, suggest you come up with some way using the front crank etc for ease. once you have got it budged a tiny bit, should be easy sailing from there?

[sonic_attack 89]

If you had a longish piece (the longer the better) scrap angle steel, you can drill it to line up with a couple of the clutch threads and bolt it to the flywheel to stop it rotating.

Then bust out the power bar and slide some dirty old pipe over it for leverage. A good hard crack to shock the bolts loose would work on anything else.

[BM WORLD 1283]

maybe take it to a engine builder , i am sure they can get it if off in 2 secs

[kiwi328i 118]

I can think of a few creative ways to stop the rotating mass...rotate. I usually grab the car jack handle and have access to many other things that can do the turning part. The weak point is the torx T55's all nine of them. I will rip them to shreds before they even think about turning loose, if an impact driver and me swinging a sledge hammer like Thor on acid don't move them...they aint going to move without disintegrating.

I may call around a few places, otherwise I will pull the crank from under

Cheers everyone

[aja540i 1906]

Lose the impact driver!! Proper torx socket and a half inch breaker bar should do it, extend the handle with a pipe if you need to.

Plus, eat more weetbix, and remember righty tighty, lefty loosey!

Edited May 26, 2014 by aja540i

[kiwi328i 118]

Well I will give it a go, those torx designs are rubbish, I mean it goes 5mm in and then loosely, I wont be putting those back in that's for sure. Another trip to Waitemata hydraulics should fix that. I don't know how many bmw bolts and nuts and screws I have replaced with much better items, but the list is growing.

I will tell ya how I get on, but I think it may all end in tears very quickly.

[Creaver 55]

Use the breaker bar as advised above. Worked for me, just make sure you leverage squarely otherwise you will strip them

[kiwi328i 118]

Just to let you all know.

I used a breaker bar of sorts and got 8 out of 9 of them off. I didn't think I would get that many, alas, still one to go, I went up to Mitre10, got a 8mm and 10mm colbolt HSS drill bits and went to town, I used cutting fluid as well, she sure got hot, but that got the last one out.

If I was to do it again...fingers crossed I will never have to, but having 2 people do it, with one just stabilizing the motor and putting pressure on the torx so that it is square and not so prone to burring might be the go.

Thanks everyone for your input

[sonic_attack 89]

You're a pro now. All us Auckland folk will be calling on you to come and do ours when the time comes!

[sonic_attack 89]

I had a crazy setup to crack the 36mm? nuts on the reduction boxes of my split kombi's. One had 9" wheels on the back so had a 3/4" power bar with a 6" extension balanced on a portable trolley jack with a 6ft piece of rusty old pipe you had to practically jump on to crack the nuts. Used to scare me everytime..