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M3_Power

A guide to ebay Diamond Keys for EWS3 - E46 and E39 relevant

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Okay .. we all know official keys from BMW cost an arm and a leg and we all know there are alternatives that's much much cheaper.

There are guides out there that teach you how to do this on your own, but nothing that really explain what's what, so here's a quick run down of what's possible and the rough costs of doing so.

Ebay diamond key with remote chipset and EWS transponder - The good ones cost about NZ$45 landed.

To get the keys cut it'll be between NZ$30 - $40 ...

Then it's a matter of getting hold of somebody with an EWS chip reader and transponder programmer that can code the keys to your EWS module (or if you feel like it, buy the tool yourself .. cheapest I've seen are about NZ$80)

Realistic cost of a new working key with remote and ews functions enabled = under $100!!

So here's what to look for:

Remote chipset - I have personally coded both to my own car so I know both work brilliantly and correctly. There are two types out there, both work perfectly fine and will respond to remote unlock and locking coding to the GM5 module: The difference being one has a replaceable battery whilst the other has a rechargeable via the ignition coil (or simply throw it on your Oral B tooth brush charger stand to charge!!).

Left chip set is the rechargeable type - notice the coil - right hand side chipset allows frequency change from 315Mhz to 433Mhz (NZ type!!)

IMAG3271_zpsfzsn7rfd.jpg

Notice the rechargeable Panasonic Battery on the left chipset

IMAG3272_zpsq1l01ugx.jpg

Transponder - there are two types

EML10030A (which is what you will find in the factory keys with remote)

PCF7935 (which is what you will find in the valet keys and earlier larger remote key sets)

Both type of transponders work and will flash with the tools correctly.

My experience shows that the PCF7935 transponders are easier to work with.

Here's what a PCF7935 looks like:

IMAG3273_zpsgrnxrtgr.jpg

What the key machines do?

Basically you have to open up your EWS box and read the main chipset off it - Each EWS has 10 keys max, that's all. The tools simply codes the ISN password to the transponders allowing it to be recongised and rolling code passed on. You can obviously also lock and unlock keys from any of the 10 sets or write over it with a new transponder. Easy. EWS modules can also be manipulated to provide new VIN number and mileage record.

If anyone needs assistance, I'd be more than happy to help.

Edited by M3_Power
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Is it the same method for e36 3 button remotes? I've seen empty keys with the buttons and a blank blade for sale on ebay from china I think. I've not seen the chipsets though, not that I specifically searched for them or would know what to type in to find them!

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Is it the same method for e36 3 button remotes? I've seen empty keys with the buttons and a blank blade for sale on ebay from china I think. I've not seen the chipsets though, not that I specifically searched for them or would know what to type in to find them!

Basically the same ... the transponder chipset in the EWS 2 and EWS 3 are interchangeable and code the same way. The difference is in the rolling code portion of the code, but that doesn't affect the way you code the keys.

Tom- you are my new favourite person on the internet. A big thank you :)

The ebay listings I have looked at all say E46- are the keys interchangeable or no?

Here's what I have purchased and found working and good seller to deal with:

Rechargeable keys, remote and transponder package:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EWS-Remote-3-Button-Board-433MHZ-CHIP-7935-and-Case-BMW-E46-KEYLESS-KEY-/271405038818?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item3f31003ce2#ht_1474wt_827

Replacement battery type:

The person selling is called Topfob - but his listings seems to be down at the moment. He ships from the UK via snail male - so be prepared to wait.

In my opinion, the first key type is better as it is rechargeable and the guy ships a heck of a lot faster (order to receipt usually within 5 working days) than the second seller.

Do tell the person to ship the 433Mhz type ... he got confused and sent me a 315Mhz for the US market the first time around. I've told him now that NZ uses 433Mhz, so he shouldn't get it wrong again!!!

You can also buy the transponder chips from ebay .. Just search PCF7935 ... they are quite cheap in lots ... so if you ever felt like having all 10 keys, you can!!!!

Edited by M3_Power

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A bit off topic, but is anyone aware of a reputable supplier for IR type E39 keys? Would also like to source a blank valet & glovebox key if possible too! :) Have got all the kit minus loom(EWS box, 1x key, lock barrels, RF aerial boxes & complete steering column) to reftrofit RF to the wagon but not sure I'm brave enough but not sure I'm brave enough to tackle the job.

Ta :)

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Carried over from the tools for hire thread:

Okay, so I now have my spare key cut (Armstrongs $40.30), it operates all the locks and starts the car if I hold my main key close enough to the barrel. FYI: Armstrongs in Takapuna can't do this at the moment and they don't have an ETA, their two compatible machines are down. The Mairangi Bay guys sorted me out.

So if I wanted to hire you or your tools to complete this what do I need to bring to the table (in addition to the key)? The whole car, EWS unit, bin file or? i.e. how much can I progress myself without any special tools? This is transponder only, no remote.

Do you have and quality links on this I can pursue?

At least for the time being I have a spare key that can at least get me into the vehicle!

Two options

1. Come grab the tool from me together with the software and install it in your own laptop and do this by yourself if you are confident enough to do so (I can show you how it is done on a spare ews unit) and ensure no one else has your EWS chip bin file ... no charge, happy to lend the tool out to established respected members on here; or

2. Unbolt your EWS from your car but leave it plugged in so you can drive it (bring your own USB stick) ... come over to my place, unplug it, I'll show you how it is done and if you are happy with the process, we'll do a reading of your EWS and provided there's already open key slots, I don't actually need to write to the EWS unit itself just the key transponder (e.g. 5 keys open in the EWS and you only have one key ... you just write the key number of the open slot to the transponder together with the ISN passcode). I will only record the EWS chip bin file onto your own USB stick not the hard drive of my laptop so I don't have a copy of it at all (so no suspicion that I can clone your EWS unit and steal your car LOL!!).

My number 021 281 0155 - located in East Auckland, Botany area.

p.s. It takes literally about 40 seconds to read the chip off the EWS ... another 20 to manipulate it and then a further 60 seconds to write back to it. The key programming is about 40 seconds or less from the bin file. So a fairly fast trouble free process.

Edited by M3_Power

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thanks Tom for the info on these Keys,

I just did the mod that Andy posted about the Japan E46 IR to RF converstion http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/50157-diy-e46-retrofit-infrared-to-radio-frequency-remote-control/

And with these keys, all is working great..

the guy who cut the keys was all doom and gloom about me suppling the "cheap replacement" aftermarket keys, but after they where done he was very impressed at the qauilty of theses ones - He said most ex china type keys are crap metal etc.. and he was very impressed at the cost landed and the fact they are rechargeable etc etc

cheers Dean

Edited by Dogballs

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No that's the transponder to the EWS module.

The module should be under the dash. Black or white box with yellow or purple plug.

I've been doing some reading on EWS2 as it seems some have had trouble cloning keys on this module - especially if it carried the Motorola 2D47J chip. It seems when you pull data off this chip directly it corrupts the ISN and the EWS no longer becomes sync'd with the DME and apparently no way to resync either. I am still trying to confirm if this is the case as the AK90 tool specifically states that it can work with the 2D47J chip, you just can't power it up like the other EWS modules.

I am going to grab a MSS50 start up kit with keys and EWS modules and test this out as it seems rather weird that it would do this.

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Can you open the EWS box and have a look at the main chip on there and see whether it has 2D47J laser-etched on there in the middle of the chip like this?

ak90-key-programmer-4.JPG

The reason I am a little cautious is because I came across a post of an owner in the USA with an E36 M3 with that particular chip in his EWS unit and he did a read on the EWS unit with the AK90 to get data off it so he could flash the key transponders and for some reason his EWS became in-operable after that despite the fact that the whole operation went perfectly as one would expect - all the keys turned the starter on and cranked = EWS recognising the new transponder chips, but it wouldn't provide fuel which means the DME was no longer sync'd with the EWS's ISN. It isn't clear whether he attempted to resync the EWS with the DME but in the end he couldn't get it to work and had to get an EWS bypass done.

Another thread I came across also had the same 2D47J EWS2 module and that was in an E39 and the owner reported everything went smoothly and he was able to code a new key to the unit without issue.

So whether the above two are just an operator error or a tooling issue I am not 100% certain. But the last thing I want to do is to take a reading from the 2D47J and have it lose all ISN data to the EWS (which technically speaking it shouldn't as the chip isn't powered with 12V to read as per picture above).

I am aware however if you power the 2D47J up with 12V then it will erase certain parts of the chip (like a reset) and it will no longer be sync'd.

The AK90 tool however is advertised as the only tool that will do the 2D47J chip without erasing it - and if you look at earlier tools you'll see it requires de-soldering of the 2D47J to do a full read and write - the AK90 has a chip adaptor that fits over the chip to do a reading just like the earlier tools without the desoldering, so technically speaking it's only when you read it over K-Line that causes issues.

So my best solution so far is to find an EWS2 module with that chip and take a reading and see if anything looks amiss and buy an E36 M3 MSS50 unit with its EWS and do a clone and see if it works first.

I hope that explains it properly !!

Edited by M3_Power

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Yes, of course mine is the problematic type!

Keeping in mind I have no expectations of you to be able to help out here although I do appreciate your time and advice!

EWSModule.jpg

I suspected it was going to be ... it's okay, we have a way to test it first now before we proceed.

Special mention out to Ray at Hellbm who has come on board to assist with this - he has kindly lent out a DME kit with an EWS2 unit with the said troubled 2D47J chip for me to test out with - I am going to test read this and flash back new contents and Ray is going to test to see if it fires up - if it does, then we know it'll be fine to read with my tool - which we believe it is.

Edited by M3_Power

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I can report that my tool does seems to read 2D47J chip okay on the EWS2 kit Ray@HellBM supplied (E36 323 coupe I believe) - I have manipulated the EWS2 file on this module by opening up two more key slots and re-wrote the 2D47J chip. This is now going back to Ray@HellBM for testing to confirm results.

Will keep you all updated.

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Ray has reported back and confirms the EWS2 kit functions perfectly. So looks like my tool will be fine for the 2D47J chip.

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Hey Tom,

Very interesting - I have gone through this a couple of years ago and got stuck with the 2D47J chip as well.

Did you end up de-soldering the chip to re-program?

Cheers,

Andrew

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Hey Tom,

Very interesting - I have gone through this a couple of years ago and got stuck with the 2D47J chip as well.

Did you end up de-soldering the chip to re-program?

Cheers,

Andrew

No I didn't. The adapter cable fitted right over the chip itself - you get a pop up warning to say not to put 12V power through it however as it'll corrupt data.

I must get Ray to give me the firmware version of that module too actually.

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Hi I have just purchased a 2000 E46 330ms, it has the 2 button key, unfortunately I only have 1 key. Will a 3 button key work for my car? also being a Jap import is it 433hz?

Regards Mike

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Hi Mike,

For your Jap import - it will be an infra-red key. These are different to the keys anywhere else.

However, you can make a key to open your locks and start the car using Tom's method. But you won't have a functioning remote.

Cheers,

Andrew

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Hi I have just purchased a 2000 E46 330ms, it has the 2 button key, unfortunately I only have 1 key. Will a 3 button key work for my car? also being a Jap import is it 433hz?

Regards Mike

Fairly sure I've seen two button keys being sold at Mister Minutes at shopping malls and the likes of Armstrong - I do believe they carry both infrared and 433Mhz versions - Then it's just a matter of programming your key to the central locking GM5 module for remote locking and unlock and then get a tool to make yourself a transponder for the EWS.

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Hi. Thanks. Mine has the battery so it will it be 433hz ?

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Infrared keys are infrared ...

Radio keys are 433Mhz or 315Mhz (Euro, NZ, Aus vs US and I believe Jap spec)

They all have batteries ... some rechargeable some are not.

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FYI ... just in case some were wondering. These cloned keys can be read by the official dealership network machines and the data on them are correct.

I just did my airbag recall on a cloned key and it worked exactly like a real thing when read through the dealership key readers.

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