E36 track car

[francoisv 466]

So finally got around to this on Saturday morning. Did the complete heater delete, now I just have to hope and pray that the two coolant pipes I joint together have the same directional flow, as I have removed the heater valve which had 3 pipes coming off it, 2 were attached to the firewall going into the heater coils under the dash. 1 goes to the rear of the block <-- this one is now connected to another hose that comes off the water pump I think? from under the intake manifold, originally the 3rd heater coil attached pipe.

Then started with the intake and break down of the right side head light for direct intake, so the car will have 3 headlights instead of 4. Just need to find a plastic headlight cover as I may have broken the glass one trying out my glass cutting skills.

Have ordered the following parts which should arrive soon,

- Clutch Kit, incl Lightened flywheel, stage 2 clutch, pressure plate and also a heavy duty clutch

- K&N Pod Filter (currently playing with the idea of a M3 M50B25 hybrid intake)

- Bonnet Clips

- Exhaust tubing for custom side exit exhaust or straight through

- SIA approved race seat and 6 point safety belt

I also have some sheet metal that ill be fabricating the intake cold air box that will house pretty much the entire intake incl throttle body.

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Yip, heater plumbing should be fine. The flange on the rear of the head is the incoming hot water, the bottom outlet is the return.Might pay to introduce a bleed point on the hose junction to be 100% that you're not trapping any air as thats equal to the highest point in the E36 cooling system. You can eliminate the airbox temp sender by routing the hose back over itself on the throttle body, those little plastic lugs break real easy once they get a bit older. I had three fail on mine causing coolant leaks and resulting ballaches before I just ditched the circuit altogether.

Can you just delete the lights entirely or do the series rules not permit that?

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

Yip, heater plumbing should be fine. The flange on the rear of the head is the incoming hot water, the bottom outlet is the return.Might pay to introduce a bleed point on the hose junction to be 100% that you're not trapping any air as thats equal to the highest point in the E36 cooling system. You can eliminate the airbox temp sender by routing the hose back over itself on the throttle body, those little plastic lugs break real easy once they get a bit older. I had three fail on mine causing coolant leaks and resulting ballaches before I just ditched the circuit altogether.

Can you just delete the lights entirely or do the series rules not permit that?

if you loop the hose to bypass the sensor coolant will be flowing through the throttle body = not ideal

Need to either delete system all together, or do what I did on my daily, use two cut down bellhousing bolts to remove the thread, then pop them in the end of the two hoses and put a hose clamp on. Goes without saying of course deleting the system is better

[francoisv 466]

Yea, ive had a look at deleting the Air temp sensor, so might continue with that. If Not, but custom cold air box could house the sensor, and by custom cold air box I mean a nicely folded / bent computer case.

Managed to delete the entire air con system without breaking anything, so that was a plus.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

Yea, ive had a look at deleting the Air temp sensor, so might continue with that. If Not, but custom cold air box could house the sensor, and by custom cold air box I mean a nicely folded / bent computer case.

Managed to delete the entire air con system without breaking anything, so that was a plus.

Bettter to delete the curcuit as much as possible, its unneeded unless you are in Dunedin, and certainly not on a race car.

Lol i can send you all the computer cases you will ever need.

Deleteing the Aircon completely is a bit of a pain in the ass, did you delete all the under dash part as well? i usually just remove everything in the engine bay and leave the two pipes coming out the firewall there.

[francoisv 466]

Bettter to delete the curcuit as much as possible, its unneeded unless you are in Dunedin, and certainly not on a race car.

Lol i can send you all the computer cases you will ever need.

Deleteing the Aircon completely is a bit of a pain in the ass, did you delete all the under dash part as well? i usually just remove everything in the engine bay and leave the two pipes coming out the firewall there.

Hahaha I managed to 'borrow' one from work. Hopefully the boss won't notice his computer is louder than usual.

Yep, I've removed everything from under the dash including the two tanks. I just need to remove the auxiliary fan and tank. I can't see any other connections to it, so hopefully it's not needed.

I also started on the coolant sensor removal, but need to trace the second pipe which goes under the intake manifold. I have to take the manifold off anyways to remove the auto box, so will do that then.

Would you know if removing the oil breather pipes from the throttle body pipe will cause any issues? I'm thinking of installing an additional oil breather

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

Hahaha I managed to 'borrow' one from work. Hopefully the boss won't notice his computer is louder than usual.

Yep, I've removed everything from under the dash including the two tanks. I just need to remove the auxiliary fan and tank. I can't see any other connections to it, so hopefully it's not needed.

I also started on the coolant sensor removal, but need to trace the second pipe which goes under the intake manifold. I have to take the manifold off anyways to remove the auto box, so will do that then.

Would you know if removing the oil breather pipes from the throttle body pipe will cause any issues? I'm thinking of installing an additional oil breather

I know a few running modified M5x engines that have deleted that system and using a catch can setup etc. all doable, depends what sort of $$ you want to spend and what amount of research you want to do

[francoisv 466]

Well haven't really set a budget as I just buy as I go along, like I won't be spending silly money until I can actually race and know how the car works and feels. I saw a post, that I can't seem to find now, of a member on here that had a pretty decent oil breathing and oil cooling system on their M50 red E30, would probably want something similar if I can find that post again

[francoisv 466]

First world problems, car is to low to get into the garage.

[francoisv 466]

Did some weight reduction today, mud flap delete, lightened steering wheel

Also got the car up on stilts for the new suspension and break system. Waiting for the couriers is almost as bad as waiting for the wife to finish shopping

[francoisv 466]

Front disks arrived today. Hopefully the suspension and rears arrive soon.

Anyone have any recommendations on race pads?

[francoisv 466]

Been a busy few nights, got the new Hawk race pads done, installed my new XYZ full race spec coil overs (will have to get these set up a someone with more knowledge on them) and then dropped the auto gear box making ready for manual conversion as soon as my stage 2 clutch kit arrives.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

i had XYZ on my E34 and was impressed, probably would go them on the compact too but will put me over my budget, how much they set you back? (pm me if you want)

[francoisv 466]

Managed to get the manual pedal box in last night. Bit of a nightmare actually, as I had to remove the entire control module with all its wiring, and then somehow manage to get the brake switch clip through the brake. All this was done with me lying upside down, bit of a head rush.

Just waiting for the clutch kit now, so I can start getting everything back together and get it drivable again.

[Daniel0663 30]

Mint build. Following!

Edited November 26, 2015 by Daniel0663

[francoisv 466]

So started on the exhaust, pretty much 3" straight through. Pieces purchased from Autobend

- 3m X 3" Mild Steel
- 30' X 3" Bend
- 2 X 2" into 3"

Welding doesn't look the best, but it did the job. will be grinding them down for coating next week. Cant see any pin hole, but will do a pressure test this weekend.

Need to trim the end piece off, it might be frowned upon to have almost a meter of pipe sticking out

[zero 1162]

What make/size etc are the front discs?

Progress is looking good.

[francoisv 466]

Zento or something. Bought them off trade me, they seem to have good feedback for the entry level races. They are the stick 286 replacement size, as if I was to upgrade to bigger, I'd have to change the tears too....apparently.

But we will see how they perform

[francoisv 466]

Clutch kit finally arrived. Should be installed and car should be drivable by end of the weekend. Then off for a roll cage and finishing up on the wiring and sound deadening removal.

[francoisv 466]

So spent pretty much all day doing the manual conversion, must say that it did surely suck.

Tomorrow will be spent getting the exhaust mounted and doing a full system flush incl brake/clutch, coolant, oils etc

Should be able to drive it around by Monday

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Yup, its an awkward bugger of a job if you don't conveniently have a hoist & trans jack at your disposal. Took more than month for my neck to come right after doing the swap on mine, there's two scars on my left knuckles as a permanent reminder too Very satisfying once its done though.

[francoisv 466]

Yup, its an awkward bugger of a job if you don't conveniently have a hoist & trans jack at your disposal. Took more than month for my neck to come right after doing the swap on mine, there's two scars on my left knuckles as a permanent reminder too Very satisfying once its done though.

Haha yea, was like a high 5 moment once it was in.

Flushing the system was a bit of a task itself as 4 points for the brake and then the clutch, but looks like I'll be able to take it for a test drive tomorrow after I do the coolant and race oil

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

Haha yea, was like a high 5 moment once it was in.

Flushing the system was a bit of a task itself as 4 points for the brake and then the clutch, but looks like I'll be able to take it for a test drive tomorrow after I do the coolant and race oil

whats race oil?

[francoisv 466]

whats race oil?

Ummmmm no idea. Haha 10W60 Penzen fully synthetic.

Apparently it's what racers use

[zero 1162]

How do you think the getrag 220 will stand up to track use?

Is it strong enough?