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lordandrevv

How reliable are M50 engines, and e36 generally?

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My dad is looking at buying a 2.5 to 2.8L e36. some people apparently complain about them being to expensive to fix (most are ppl who never owned 1 i guess).

My questions are:

-do they break that easy (from what i know, bimmers are the complete opposite. japs break down quicker, but there are plenty of parts for them)

-and when the unavoidable happens and something does get buggered, how easy is it to find replacements(for a e36 obviously), be that OEM BMW parts ,like electronics, engine parts, or general stuff, like a sunroof servo or something?

I reccon they're great cars, and i'm gonna buy a e34 525i soon no mater what any1 says anyway.

cheers

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Guess I'll start.

Have an m50 325i, It's up to about 180,000 kms now. The engine it's self and the car is fine , if the odder meter had 130,000 less I'd doubt I'd notice any difference as it still running smooth as.

Maintenance / parts was, seems to be fine, no more or less to maintain than any other 6 cyl car. Although for some reason water pumps normally need replacing at 130,000 to 150,000 kms. These should be replaced with the later metal impeller version. I've also had the (1/2) radiator replaced (no overheating issues though). Other thing with BMW is with standard brake pads these tend to eat disk rotors. I've normally replaced rotors at the same stage as pads (roughly 190,000 kms on my manual and about 120,000 on the wife’s auto). I've had no issue with electrics on my NZ new car, but did have issues on the wife’s imported e36 318i, mainly window switches / dash lights and voltage regulator.

The extra torque of the 328 is work it over the 325, but the 325 engine is a sweet, smooth revving engine. I prefer the 325 to the 3.0 engined Z3 I drove in this regard.

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I never had any engine problems with either of my E36s. But I certainly had enough other little niggles to make me very wary of ever buying another.

Both had to have new steering racks (at around 110k), both needed suspension work, both needed brake switches, both had these stupid little tail-lighting faults caused by BMWs silly sliding contacts, both had window winders (electric) fail.

The 318 needed new cam belt at 100K of course, but the 325 is chain driven so no bother at all with that.

The VANOS was smegging noisy and I felt embarassed being close to people when I started the car up - sounded like a Massey Ferguson. The exhaust note was sweet in both, but better in the 325, although quite noisy from outside the car when starting off in the morning.

All that said - I enjoyed both and they handled brilliantly - I just won't have another - I've moved on. If I was to go back to a 3 series, it'd be an E46 - which IMO is the most beautiful 3 series ever.

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Yep the alternator / battery doesn't cope that well with an ICE system that draws 80+ amps if it's humming. But I guess a second battery could be an ideal along with a larger alternator.

Funny about the vanos , mine’s still quiet at 180k kms. The only BMW engine I did like the sound of was the 98 -04 3.0 , it sounded too much like a Holden 202 for my liking. Too much fan noise.

Also forgot about the rear shock mounts failing , this is a trate on E21s/E30s and e36's. TMS motorsport sells items that sort this for good.

Edited by Neal

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My 320 is nearing 157kms and the only engine problem I've had was with the viscous coupling on the fan - it jammed, the fan spun off and ripped through the radiator - fun times!!

Other than I service it with good oil every 5000-7500kms and it's still going well.

Random problem I had last week - battery terminal snapped when I went over a decent bump. I thought something was seriously wrong but the force of the battery hitting the bump and the terminal must have had a fracture in it...

Very enjoyable car for long trips, love the sound of the 6.

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Guest Andrew

No problems with mine - cept oh wait the radiator completely died at 57000 kms. At least its new now.

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try checking the e36 buyers guide. I think theres a stickied threads.

Bmw's are great cars, and the best thing is that everything which wears out is VERY predictable. You pretty much know exactly when it goes, and what it was.

Main things which go around 130k km Waterpump, which kills the thermostat, and also the radiator neck.

CHeck the buyers guides. Theres a list of things which happens to every car, so plan for it, and youll be fine.

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I should just shut my mouth but my E36 is in the shop right now, i've had it for 5 moths and have 94000 on the clock,

Car overheated on the motorway, ripped off the top radiator neck, after a brand new radiator and thermostat the car still overheats, my only two options now are water pump and or head gaskit.

The pump is being done on monday and i'll see if it fixes the problem.

If i had to say one thing, it's try and get insurance that covers this sh*t, lucky me, i'm only paying $250 for the lot and i've never had a problem before.

If you get you car serviced and checked out at the right time you will be fine.

You can't go past a bimmer mate .. they rock and i'll never buy another type of car ... EVER ..

:)

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Replace the whole cooling system as soon as you buy one.

Cheap insurance!

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Replace the whole cooling system as soon as you buy one.

Cheap insurance!

Cheap??? Unlikely!!!

Just buy a really comprehensive warranty with the car - I brought one for $900 which covered everything and if I ever claim I only have to pay for the wearable parts - like I just got a whole new radiator in after it shattered the endtank - I just paid for a new radiator cap and thermostat.

Otherwise they are brilliant cars - I really regret having to sell mine but I want a car that loses traction when I lean on the gas in 3rd at 80km/h :mosh:

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Other thing with BMW is with standard brake pads these tend to eat disk rotors. I've normally replaced rotors at the same stage as pads (roughly 190,000 kms on my manual and about 120,000 on the wife’s auto)

The problem isn't with the pads eating the rotors too much. It's because the rotors are made soft to enhance the grip. That's why they brake so well and why you buy new rotors and pads at the same time.

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