Advice on removing thrust arm ball joint E39

[rusteee 52]

Hi guys

Another PITA issue with this e39 540i. Currently having massive issues trying to seperate the ball joint spiggot of the drivers side thrust arm, from the steering knuckle and wondering if anyone has any advice on how to remove the damn thing. I have the proper tool that should normally press them out, and currently has been sitting with that on it for about 4 hours under major tension and is now starting to press the steel insert that the spiggot seats into, out of the ali housing. Has sat all week with CRC etc, and have tried using all sorts of rods and large hammers etc as last resorts but it won't budge. Not too sure whether heating is ideal? as steel insert in ali housing. Any help apreciated

[B.M.W Ltd 950]

There are not many "right" tools out there. You don't going hitting sh*t out of it with a hammer. You'll end up damaging or cracking the carrier.

We use a specific factory tool.

[jonesrp 63]

That`s why I use a mechanic to fix up `stuff` on my e39.....

[rusteee 52]

Well thats all fine, but I was after advise. I am very aware of what damage can occur from hitting it with a hammer, which is exactly why I didn't just go hitting things in there willy nilly. I was trying to 'shock' the metal with a short sharp hit. I have the proper tool that was BMW specified for the job that is made to press the spiggot out, like an adjustable 'H' type clamp arrangment. It seems comletely seized. Every other ball joint has come off without a hitch.

[B.M.W Ltd 950]

Show me a picture of what you are using and how you are using it. You should not be pressing the steel insert out of the aluminium housing. The tool should be pressing the ball joint taper out of the insert. Some tools sold will not do what the manufacturers say they will. Googling what' s available just proved that to me, even on other BMW sites

Edited July 25, 2015 by B.M.W Ltd

[rusteee 52]

Cheers Glenn. Sorry my phone is crap in the dark will try take pic tommorow. But its exactly like this one in the pic attatched. I have the wheel turned so the tool slots in nicely above the arm, and now far enough so the fork will support that steel sleeve (mistake on my part). The top has a firm flat seat on top of the ball joint bolt, then tighten the nut/bolt to press the bolt out.... supposedly. Is this not the right tool for the job?

[B.M.W Ltd 950]

These tools often don't push squarely on the taper and the base quite often doesn't support the steel seat base correctly. This caused the tool to press slightly side ways and not break the taper and all you'll end up doing is bending the tool

[rusteee 52]

Oh right, it does look pretty square once its on tight enough to start pushing down on the bolt, but I suppose not seeing as this stubborn joint isn't coming off. Bugger is, its worked well for the tie rods, centre drag link, rear control arms and front passengers thrust arm, just this drivers side almost feels like its loctite in there. Don't suppose there is anything else I can try?

[B.M.W Ltd 950]

If you are replacing the thrust arm, you could try fitting the lock nut back on the ball joint, but not tight. Load up the tool and hit the nut with a drift & hammer or hit the ball joint in the thrust arm to shock it's release

[rusteee 52]

Thanks for that Glenn, appreciate it. Yeah I have complete thrust arms as the boot on the ball joint were already split. Will give that a shot tomorrow

[Allanw 1051]

Doesn't your tool have the strengthening ribs on the wrong side?

My tool looks like this (Franklin TA331):

So the flat surface sits against the carrier and the arm pushes pretty square on the ball joint bolt.

I cranked this thing up, and it made the arm let go with a real bang! It threw the tool down, and chipped the concrete!

Of course mine is a 6 cylinder, so maybe slightly different.

(HAHA! He said tool etc...)

[rusteee 52]

Its goes both ways, I've put it around the other way as learnt pretty quick that how it is in the pic wasn't going to work. Not too sure but I think the 6 cyl has a bit more room to play with? Basically left it sitting cranked up in the hope that it would eventually press out, but no such luck. Will give it another crack tommorow

[richard.pykett 36]

Drown it in CRC, walk away (overnight), refit the tool, crank it up and then warm the alloy with a heat gun. My old BJS would not fit so I bought a Toledo from Tool and Industrial Supplies at the end of Harris Road East Tamaki.

[rusteee 52]

Thanks Glenn! Managed to pop it off this morning using that method. Came off like gun shot, then i've pressed the steel sleeve back up the few mm's it came out of the housing and have fitted the new thrust arm. Yet to load it up and torque the bolt on the bush up to spec, but happy to have that done as was holding up the whole job. Appreciate the help

[Andre3000 55]