russellc2 9 Report post Posted August 9, 2016 Hi all, It looks like the infrared sender in my 99 model E39 2 button key remote is dead (tested with digital camera with new batteries & no go) The led on the key is working fine and the EWS chip is fine as the car starts no problem. Does anyone know if you can swap the IR sender / rest of the internals from a working key over to my dead one (with the EWS chip as well of course to match my car) Not too keen on $450+ for new key from dealer if there is a way around it. Cheers, Russell Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted August 9, 2016 Yes this should work fine, provided its done right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Young Thrash Driver 1020 Report post Posted August 9, 2016 The question is... can you source an IR sender unit?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellc2 9 Report post Posted August 9, 2016 No, that's my next question does anyone have an old 2 button IR key from an E39 or maybe late E36 / early E46 lying around from a wrecked car? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dkonsta1 109 Report post Posted August 9, 2016 Does it have to be blank blade? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellc2 9 Report post Posted August 9, 2016 No, I'll try and transfer internals over to my key / blade so doesn't need to be a blank. Just a working infrared sender is all I need. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogballs 115 Report post Posted August 9, 2016 Hi Russell, - just be careful before you right off your IR key fob, the digital camera test is not a 100% accurate of checking if the IR transmitter is working. ( of course it maybe stuffed too ). in particularly newer cameras filter IR, so you won't always see it working.. have you tried re-syncing it with the car..? there is a very specific procedure and must be done in the right conditions.. - i.e. out of the sunlight or other IR sources>.. if the battery is out for more than 30sec(from memory) or goes flat it will need to be re-synced. If you are 100% sure its no good, I have an old key you can have... Cheers 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellc2 9 Report post Posted August 10, 2016 Hi Dean, thanks for the info - I didn't realise newer cameras (I used an iPhone 6) filtered IR... I had an auto locksmith try re-syncing with the car, I've got a copy of the exact process he used. I have changed the 2x CR2016 since then (did the battery swap in under 30 sec's after reading about what you mentioned) but haven't had any luck with a re-sync since then. I'll give it another whirl tonight and let you know. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogballs 115 Report post Posted August 10, 2016 the sync procedure is very specific.. Read this thread.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellc2 9 Report post Posted August 10, 2016 ok the plot thickens.. Re-tested the IR functions on both lock and unlock using the front (not rear facing) camera on my iPhone 6 as well as a known working remote in my house and they are all functioning fine So it looks like the IR sender is not at fault. Ran through the steps provided by Glenn in the post you sent through about 4 or 5 times and still no joy. I get the red LED on key flashing whether I hit the round lock button 3 or 4 times (tried both methods) but it still doesn't activate the central door locking. I've double checked fuse 53 in the boot is still fine too... I found another article that mentions doing something in DIS around the radio / IR functions but I wasn't sure which menu that was under so gave up! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellc2 9 Report post Posted August 10, 2016 Cracked it! One step in Glenn's instructions wasn't quite right. His step 2 says wait for 5 seconds, other instructions I found said it needs to be done quickly (key in, onto position 2 / ignition on, then off & remove in under 5 seconds) this did the trick for me. For anyone else with same issue, try this: 1. Get in and close all doors 2. Turn the ignition on &off quickly (no more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds 3. First key -hold down button #2 (unlock -on the bottom left with the key blade pointing up) while striking button #1 (lock -~he BMW logo) three times. Release button #2. This should be confirmed by door lock operation. 4. If you have more than 1 key then you need to repeat for the other keys within 30 seconds of first or they will be rendered inactive. 5. After last key then cycle the ignition on/off to finalise the process (it is not necessary to start the engine). 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogballs 115 Report post Posted August 10, 2016 well done... no new key required then! Good result 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted August 10, 2016 If all else fails MillAnd brought me in a genuine key from Germany, took less than 2 weeks from payment to delivery and came to about $260 inc GST. Far cheaper than the Stealership and only a couple of days slower 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites