77jessejames77 1 Report post Posted March 19, 2017 Hi, My name is Jesse I live in New Zealand and i have an 87 M535i (auto) with 260k km on the clock. Desperately need some tech knowledge /advice. I have been having issues with the car stalling on me in the last 2 times i have driven it. I use the car maybe one or two times a week but i have another BMW as my daily driver. as the E28 is king Now what happened initially was after driving about 30 min to my workshop to do my oil change i parked my car, made a coffee and let her cool for about 40 min. After coming back i started the car, and went to pull it inside and she died. after trying to start the car again she was just turning over and not starting ( although it did start once or twice while i gave it a shitload of revs, but soon died again after) I have recently changed the spark plugs and oil. after a brief IAC valve clean I managed to get it going again and drove home (about 30 min drive) parked it up, and she sat for a week. Now when I decided to take her for another test drive she died on me after about 15 min of driving, this happened while i was going at about 100ks p/h (60m p/h ). I was on the freeway but i managed to get to get to an off ramp. What happened was as I was going 100km p/h the revs started dropping and when i put my foot on the gas to try and give it more revs this happened - (revs going crazy up and down, Fuel usage meter going crazy, I don't recall the temp gauge moving much but it may have been I was trying not to crash lol) I had to really fight to get off the freeway at about 30km p/h. My first thought was the idol air control valve, but it seems that might not be the issue. i have taken the IAC valve off again and cleaned it out really well, (contact cleaner inside, then after i used some crc multi lube gel to get everything nicely lubed and moving inside it). The IAC valve seemed to be sticking half open and not closing or opening completely. ( i have also tested the pins and they all have the correct resistance). A couple days ago- After re-fitting the IAC valve, Parked in the driveway I started it up and after 2-3 min the revs began to fluctuate (mostly drop down) and eventually the car just stalled. and would not start again. (i did start the car again today and managed to move it into the garage but I suspect it would have died soon after.) I'm no expert mechanic so I'm a bit stuck right now as what the problem could be. I do know I need to consider things like Crank and cam angle sensors, MAF sensor, water temp sensor?? or so I have heard, or the oxygen sensor. I'm wondering where to start. I have a friend with a code scanner would it be worthwhile hooking it up and seeing if any faults come up? What recommendations would you have or experiences have you come across in the past with this or similar issue? Thanks as always, any advice or tech know-how would be extremely appreciated! I have tried to give as much info as I possibly can if you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. *maybe worth noting the previous owner replaced the IAC valve a few years ago. * this post is also on MyE28.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted March 19, 2017 fuel pump dying ? , or bad crank sensor or ecu (dry joints) etc also check the dizzy cap and rotor etc when it dies and wont start , you need to check if you have spark at one of the spark plug leads ?? if you do then look into the fuel system , fuel pumps die these cars have a lift pump in the tank and a high pressure one under the car call me tomorrow if you want more info 021433600 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
77jessejames77 1 Report post Posted March 19, 2017 Thanks brent, I will chuck in a new cap and rotor to see if it makes a difference porobably do the temp sensor at the same time. im pretty sure the car is getting enough fuel but will check the pump also thanks mate will let you know how i get on! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted March 19, 2017 My first thought was dead coil, as Brent said check for spark next time it dies. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave@nz 11 Report post Posted March 21, 2017 I would start at the battery terminals make sure they are tight. Doubt scanning will reveal anything probably the computer system will most likely not have the capability. If you manage to get it running at home and it is missing dying connect a timing light to any plug lead and watch for light going out momentarily when missing to indicate electrical problem, if it is dying out and light still steady strobe then worn out fuel pump would be my pick. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted March 21, 2017 50 minutes ago, Dave@nz said: I would start at the battery terminals make sure they are tight. Doubt scanning will reveal anything probably the computer system will most likely not have the capability. If you manage to get it running at home and it is missing dying connect a timing light to any plug lead and watch for light going out momentarily when missing to indicate electrical problem, if it is dying out and light still steady strobe then worn out fuel pump would be my pick. I'm not sure Motronic cars (particularly early ones, like this is likely to be) record many useful fault calls, I could be wrong though? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted March 21, 2017 these cars have a few common faults , give me a call some time 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
77jessejames77 1 Report post Posted March 22, 2017 (edited) Update! Unsuccessful with the code reader, the plug i needed was the 15pin and he had the 20pin plug, oh well. So I have changed the Crank angle sensor out for a brand new one. Now the car did seem to be idling much better,very steady no jumping up or dropping down. but after about 10 min of parked idling it did die on me again, and was reluctant to start again after it stalled out. A bit of gas got it going again for a very short time and after it died a seccond time it would not start just turn over. i lett it sit for about 10 min and tried again this time it ran for about 5 min and again, stalled. hmmmm not sure what to replace next, dist cap + Rotor? probably the temperature sensor. (mine does have 2 temp sensors side by side do they do different things?) Edited March 22, 2017 by 77jessejames77 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted March 22, 2017 11 hours ago, 77jessejames77 said: Update! Unsuccessful with the code reader, the plug i needed was the 15pin and he had the 20pin plug, oh well. So I have changed the Crank angle sensor out for a brand new one. Now the car did seem to be idling much better,very steady no jumping up or dropping down. but after about 10 min of parked idling it did die on me again, and was reluctant to start again after it stalled out. A bit of gas got it going again for a very short time and after it died a seccond time it would not start just turn over. i lett it sit for about 10 min and tried again this time it ran for about 5 min and again, stalled. hmmmm not sure what to replace next, dist cap + Rotor? probably the temperature sensor. (mine does have 2 temp sensors side by side do they do different things?) call me mate 021433600 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
77jessejames77 1 Report post Posted March 25, 2017 Update number 2 Changed temp sensor (only $30) why not the old one looked really bad. same issue. once car is warm (about 6-10 min of parked idle) it dies and wont start. I have checked the spark at the plug and there is defiantly spark at the plug. plugs were actually quite black and sooty (replaced less than 200km ago) the fuel pump was replaced in 2009 and the fuel filter in 2014. thoughts? Cheers - Jess Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted March 26, 2017 On 25/03/2017 at 1:14 PM, 77jessejames77 said: Update number 2 Changed temp sensor (only $30) why not the old one looked really bad. same issue. once car is warm (about 6-10 min of parked idle) it dies and wont start. I have checked the spark at the plug and there is defiantly spark at the plug. plugs were actually quite black and sooty (replaced less than 200km ago) the fuel pump was replaced in 2009 and the fuel filter in 2014. thoughts? Cheers - Jess ok so you have spark , but still no start , ok so next you need to check is there high pressure fuel at the fuel rail , disconnect the fuel hose at the reg end and crank it over . if fuel is there , are the fuel injectors ticking when you crank the engine ?? you may have spark but is it in time ? check with a timing light ? is it being over fuelled ? black smoke ? when it stalls , bang the ecu box with handle of a screw driver ? so if it starts ? did you check the distance from the flywheel trigger to the crank sensor (the rear one) is the trigger solid mounted to the flywheel , not cracked welds etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
