E36 Auto Transmission Gasket Replacement

[drtimwright 104]

Hey everyone,

I've got a leaky auto transmission in my 1998 E36 328i. Photo of the transmission attached - hopefully it has the transmission code on the photo.

This seems to be the gasket replacement kit that fits:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-automatic-transmission-filter-kit-24111421kit

Just wondering if anyone can say "no that's wrong" before I buy it (I don't expect anyone to say "yes" - I just want to reduce my risk of buying the wrong part)

Thanks,

Tim

[drtimwright 104]

Or is this one OK: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-auto-trans-filter-kit-fk1870

I don't seem to have two pans - just one. Like I've seen on an E46!

Edited February 9, 2018 by drtimwright

[B.M.W Ltd 950]

They are both the wrong kits. From those poor quality photos it's hard to determine whether it is the pan that is leaking. Several items can cause the leak shown. I would get it checked by a professional.

[drtimwright 104]

1 hour ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

They are both the wrong kits. From those poor quality photos it's hard to determine whether it is the pan that is leaking. Several items can cause the leak shown. I would get it checked by a professional.

Thanks - it was hard to get good quality photos with one arm stretched under the car (didn't want to crawl too far under when it's only jacked up). I've booked it in with my mechanic now (remembered that it's still covered by the mechanical warranty I purchased).

Tim

[zero 1162]

If you are doing the gasket its the perfect time to do new trans oil and filter too.

[drtimwright 104]

On 09/02/2018 at 1:59 PM, B.M.W Ltd said:

They are both the wrong kits. From those poor quality photos it's hard to determine whether it is the pan that is leaking. Several items can cause the leak shown. I would get it checked by a professional.

The professional said: leaky pan gasket and probably needs replacement seal on the side (I forget the exact part - potentially the extension shaft seal but will find out more when I talk in person). Can be done without having to remove the transmission. He said there was nothing wrong with the seals joining the engine and torque converter.

Now to find the right parts. I got him to write down the transmission model code  And, yes, I'll be doing a fluid and filter replacement at the same time.

Tim

[*Glenn* 854]

That's the selector shaft seal on the L/H side of the gearbox- common leak issue on the older cars

[drtimwright 104]

Turns out it's a ZF-5HP18.

 

 

[Gabe79 410]

I wasn't thinking when I saw your original post, I'm sorry.

 

You can actually plug your last 7 here:

www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi

And it'll tell you what your engine and transmission models are.

 

[drtimwright 104]

In case anyone's interested, I'm half way through the replacement.

I found the right gasket, oil filter, and shift selector seal on trademe. They came from Australia.

So far I've managed to do the hard bits. Tuesday night:

• Drain the oil (thick black crud)
• Remove the oil pan (more thick black crud)
• Remove the filter (lots of extra yucky oil comes out)
• Remove the valve cover
• Remove the shift selector seal
• Install the new seal
• Reinstall the valve cover
  • Note that you don't actually have to remove and reinstall the valve cover in order to replace the shift selector seal. You can dig it out from the outside using a screwdriver. Of course, I didn't know this until the (heavy) valve cover was out.
• Have a shower because I was covered in oil

Wednesday night:

• Torque the valve cover screws to spec
• Replace the old oil filter & oil pan, torque screws to spec
• Buy a socket that will fit the oil fill screw (only BNT seemed to have a 17mm hex driver)
• Fill with oil (damn that was messy)
• Take for test drive (it was awesome! Much better shifting and power)
• Check the oil wasn't still leaking (spoiler: it had stopped leaking)
• Took another shower for the same reasons.

2 weeks later:

• Remove oil pan and filter again
• Install new filter
• Replace oil pan
• Fill with oil

The most surprising thing was how dirty the oil was on the second change. I've got enough oil to change it again, so might do that after a few hundred more kms. But after this change (oil and filter) the car was even more peppy - changing gears even faster than before. Wish I'd done it before the driver training day!

Tim

Edited March 13, 2018 by drtimwright
added update...

[Ken 0]

Thanks mate seriously I’ve been trying  to fill this same type of gearbox in the wrong fill port it’s first time I’ve seen a actual photo of this gearbox thanks again done the fill and wow she’s like brand new and yea messy job 

[drtimwright 104]

5 minutes ago, Ken said:

Thanks mate seriously I’ve been trying  to fill this same type of gearbox in the wrong fill port it’s first time I’ve seen a actual photo of this gearbox thanks again done the fill and wow she’s like brand new and yea messy job 

Glad I could help! Yeah, trying to fill through the drain port would be a nightmare. I kinda wish I'd taken photos when the gasket was off so you could see inside it too.

Tim

[hotwire 352]

On 27/02/2018 at 10:23 PM, drtimwright said:

In case anyone's interested, I'm half way through the replacement.

I found the right gasket, oil filter, and shift selector seal on trademe. They came from Australia.

So far I've managed to do the hard bits. Tuesday night:

• Drain the oil (thick black crud)
• Remove the oil pan (more thick black crud)
• Remove the filter (lots of extra yucky oil comes out)
• Remove the valve cover
• Remove the shift selector seal
• Install the new seal
• Reinstall the valve cover
  • Note that you don't actually have to remove and reinstall the valve cover in order to replace the shift selector seal. You can dig it out from the outside using a screwdriver. Of course, I didn't know this until the (heavy) valve cover was out.
• Have a shower because I was covered in oil

Wednesday night:

• Torque the valve cover screws to spec
• Replace the old oil filter & oil pan, torque screws to spec
• Buy a socket that will fit the oil fill screw (only BNT seemed to have a 17mm hex driver)
• Fill with oil (damn that was messy)
• Take for test drive (it was awesome! Much better shifting and power)
• Check the oil wasn't still leaking (spoiler: it had stopped leaking)
• Took another shower for the same reasons.

2 weeks later:

• Remove oil pan and filter again
• Install new filter
• Replace oil pan
• Fill with oil

The most surprising thing was how dirty the oil was on the second change. I've got enough oil to change it again, so might do that after a few hundred more kms. But after this change (oil and filter) the car was even more peppy - changing gears even faster than before. Wish I'd done it before the driver training day!

Tim

The torque converter would still have been full of fluid - hence the dirty fluid second time around. Sounds as if it does need another flush.