E91 330i sump gasket replacement

[Jacko 2078]

Might as well document this little project... same as all N52 sump gaskets, they eventually fail (normally in the rear left corner). Parts are cheap but its a lot of work to get access to em.

Will do the same as what I did on my 130i, drop the subframe down without removing it and work around it... its a bit of a mare but totally removing the subframe really requires a hoist! 

My 330i is an auto, so has the bulkier alloy sump rather than the 130i's pressed steel manual version sump, hopefully it doesnt make it more of a prick to remove.

Obligatory engine mount replacement at the same time.

 

Step 1 - degrease the sh*t out of it all and give it a clean up

[Jacko 2078]

Engine supported, engine mounts unbolted from the bottom side, subframe bolts out, tranny cooler loosened off, steering rack unbolted, CCV drain disconnected then undo all the sump bolts...

10 minutes of swearing and jiggling and the sumps out, the auto sump is much more of a chinese finger puzzle than the manual. The tranny cooler lines and extra bulk compared to the manual sump make it much more challenging.

 

 

[Jacko 2078]

Decided to drop the LH suspension arms to give myself another few inches of room, Sump cleaned up, new oil level sensor seal, and a bit of sealant on the gasket this time and Bob should be uncle.

Discovered a good trick to getting the RH engine mount done up, as access to the top bolt is blocked by the steering shaft. Leaving the two steering rack bolts out, If ya line up the bottom engine mount bolts and put in loosely so key lines up, then shove the rack over a few inches can get the top bolt in, then shove the rack back to the right and presto. LH mount can be got with a spanner, so not so bad.

Its amazing how many stone the subframe collects, good weight reduction! 

[Jacko 2078]

Should finish this up, all back together and good to go.

One thing I noticed on this and the 130 is that is engine feels significantly smoother with new engine mounts, and neither case the engine mounts looked toasted. Im guessing its the lower diaphragm in the fluid filled section that dies (and Im guessing at around 100,000km?) 

[nick496 268]

Here's a question for you, just pulled the sump off mine (out of car on crane).
And the rear of the sump was catching on the galv plate that goes between the engine and the trans.

Did you find it was just a case of sliding the sump forward so that it wasn't in that wee slit? Or did you not have that issue?

[Jacko 2078]

13 minutes ago, nick496 said:

Here's a question for you, just pulled the sump off mine (out of car on crane).
And the rear of the sump was catching on the galv plate that goes between the engine and the trans.

Did you find it was just a case of sliding the sump forward so that it wasn't in that wee slit? Or did you not have that issue?

Its sits in it with the two little lumps, shouldnt catch though. Maybe its not properly lined up on the back of block, has a couple of dowels?

[Olaf 3245]

16 hours ago, Jacko said:

Should finish this up, all back together and good to go.

One thing I noticed on this and the 130 is that is engine feels significantly smoother with new engine mounts, and neither case the engine mounts looked toasted. Im guessing its the lower diaphragm in the fluid filled section that dies (and Im guessing at around 100,000km?) 

I think ten years or ~150k kms and all mounts are toasted.  By replacing engine and box mounts in all of my BMWs over the last few years I've netted a significant reduction in NVH.  Well worth the $$.