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nick496

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nick496 last won the day on December 26 2020

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About nick496

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    2nd Gear

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  • Name
    Nick
  • Location
    Hamilton
  • Car
    E30 320i Touring
  • Car 2
    E36 328i

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  1. Yes. I think I want some sway bars. Will have a better look tonight and flick you a pm.
  2. From what I could tell, OBD2 was standard on bmws on later e36s in the USA. I had a 2000 318ti, still didn't have OBD2. Just good old OBD1 which is the round plug in the engine bay.
  3. I personally wouldn't be looking at a low KMs E36 320i for 13k, especially if you're wanting to then just manual swap it. Better off buying something like this https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2985237483?bof=8Z9MJgwM Which is already manual, has the larger engine, and looks like it's been looked after a bit.
  4. I'm assuming these are what you're referring to? https://www.umnitza.com/browse-by-car-model/bmw/3-series/e30/projector30-153.html Couldn't find too many other people running them in the E30 online, so don't think you'll see many people running them over here in NZ.
  5. Not too bad. @S3RIES Let me know if you are going to place an order, and I'll join in to combine shipping.
  6. Looks like it might still be able to fit. What if you unbolt the gearbox brace from the chassis, drop the gearbox down a touch, then slide the mounts onto the gearbox, then raise it up to bolt the brace to the chassis?
  7. Hmmm, it shows up for me in the trademe app. $5500 was the winning bid with reserve met.
  8. With regards to temperatures on the M52. I originally ran an 88 degree thermostat in my swapped car, and the temperature needle sat bang on halfway. (Standard E36 6 cyl rad, with the 80/88c switch) After doing a few track days and general use, I found my Aux electric fan only turned on when I either towed, (high revs slow speed), or sat in traffic on a hot day for a minute or so, before turning off. Since the temperatures were consistent, I then swapped to the stock thermostat for the M52, which I believe is 96 degrees, in hopes of better fuel efficiency. This meant with no other changes to my cooling system, the E30 needle sat in the middle between halfway, and the 3/4 mark. My E36 rad later starting weeping, and I swapped to the Z3M rad, as it wasn't too much more than a standard replacement. I will note though, that I never managed to put a temp gun to anything, as I ordered one from Aliexpress, played with a few times in my office, and when I went to use it in the garage, it stopped working. But figured providing the temp needle was stable, I shouldn't have too many issues. Though being able to read the actual temp might be useful later on.
  9. Oh gosh, a page with comments from 2012-2020 Yeah, that's why I reference the current standard which the modification is being measured to, because I believe your certifier signs off on things, and it then gets submitted to the pencil pushers who if they have any queries, will go back to that standard for any clarification.
  10. Figured I'd pitch in here, since I've spent a lot of time looking over LVVTA's standards for wheels, brakes and spacers recently. Most of those points are all highlighted here: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf Granted, that's dated 2016, but I don't see any of these points being laxed, and if changed, would expect them to be tightened. 1. It can, for pressed steel wheels. However, for cast aluminium wheels: see 2.5(2) a: the spacer is designed to fit only one stud configuration. This is clarified in the notes: ‘Configuration’ means, within the context of 2.5(2)(a), that whilst a spacer can be of a multi-fitting design in that it fits varying pitch circle diameters, it must be of a type that will fit either a four-stud wheel or a five-stud wheel, but not both. Spacers that will fit both four-stud and five-stud wheels must not be used in any situations. 2. There is a method is pretty clearly spelt out in 2.5(1) f: be set-screwed or attached by another secure method to either the wheel or hub face; 3 and 4, I think that's pretty spot on in 2.5(1) e: be fitted as to ensure the wheel locates snugly over the hub spigot so that the hub carries the weight of the wheel assembly instead of the wheel studs, or where there is a mis-match between the hub spigot and the wheel centre, a close tolerance fit center bore locator must be provided 5. I'll just nitpick on this one, it's 6.5 turns: 2.4(4) b, i: in the case of a 12 mm metric stud or bolt with a 1.5 mm coarse thread pitch, 6.5 turns OR in 2.4(4) c "in the case of an unmodified hub assembly, not less than that originally provided for the fitment by the original vehicle manufacturer." , but given that you've spaced it out, I'd say b would be applicable. This is all from the LVVTA standard, though as myself and may others have found, the interpretation is entirely up to the individual certifier, so what one certifier may say is acceptable, another may not. In particular your local guys notes about using a heat resistant adhesive, some might pass that, and others might not. And then whether you get pulled up on it for a WoF is another story. As your cert guy says, since you already have a cert, for spacers, it wouldn't be worth going in for a re-cert providing you meet all the criteria above. But in terms of other modifications to your car that vary from it's initial certification: What does your cert say in regards to your wheel size? Unless it's stamped OEM, most will specify a diameter and width (but oddly never offset, or tyre size) With regards to brake calliper changes, that also would require a cert as per: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf See section 8-1, as it doesn't list a calliper change there. How that would be proven given that it bolts on would be another topic, but figured I'd bring it up. But you can fit those larger rotors, as I'm assuming they would be "the same size as the OE rotors; and catalogued aftermarket items for that make and model of vehicle (and can include cross-drilled and/or slotted types)"
  11. Sold. Will let the new owner sort out their own project thread.
  12. Not sure, it's been like that since I got it, so didn't know that was wrong.
  13. Right. Now that I've actually cleaned the car, I can post some pictures of the body issues, which I'd say is above the average wear and tear. Bit of a scrape here on the tail light. And a dent here on the drivers rear Probably the worst bit, the weird dents in the drivers guard And the bonnet clear has faded in the middle, and is starting to go on the roof also.
  14. Yeah, pricing on E36's has gone up, but figured would see if anyone within the forum would take it keep it in the family, rather than just flicking it to some random.
  15. Nah, not particularly, given how little I've driven the E36, I don't have a lot of use for 2 project cars 😜
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