E36 328i manual conversion?

[Beemerboi 0]

Hi all just have questions about manual converting my e36.

1. Can I use a pedal box out of another factory manual model like a 318i?

2. I’m not the best at wiring so how difficult is setting up the ecu or could I find a manual ecu and just plug it in?

3. Is there any fabrication involved in making it fit? Or does it all bolt up fairly easy with the right parts?

Any other advice would be welcome just trying to figure out if I do the swap or hold out till I can afford a factory manual Cheers.

Edited May 5, 2022 by Beemerboi

[euroriffic 612]

1. Any e36 pedal box will work

2. The only wiring required is to wire the auto trans selector to think it’s in neutral or park so you can start it if you’re not reflashing the ecu,  And for the reverse switch, but is super easy and many how-to’s around. I did have issues with rev hang and stalling when cold pulling up to an intersection, which was solved with a manual ecu.

3, No fab work required.

From memory there are two different types of clutch masters with different fittings on them for the hard line, so be weary of that if replacing with new.

There’s a 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder shift linkage, the 6 being 20mm-ish shorter, but can cut and weld the 4, or just get a DSSR.

Also need  the front half of the drive shaft as is a different length to the auto, and I think is different between a getrag 220 and the zf, the zf being the stronger box correct to a 328i, but 220 is more common  being fitted to the 325i and down. 
Are also two different sized guibos (driveshaft couplers) so check for the right one of getting a new one. 
Oh, and some 4 cylinder drive shafts have a balancer on the front which fowls the shifter linkage and needs removed. 
 

think that’s about it. Definitely worth doing looking at the price of manual big 6 e36s currently, and even better if going from a horrid jatco auto!
 

 

Edited May 5, 2022 by euroriffic

[promo 93]

9 hours ago, euroriffic said:

1. Any e36 pedal box will work

2. The only wiring required is to wire the auto trans selector to think it’s in neutral or park so you can start it if you’re not reflashing the ecu,  And for the reverse switch, but is super easy and many how-to’s around. I did have issues with rev hang and stalling when cold pulling up to an intersection, which was solved with a manual ecu.

3, No fab work required.

From memory there are two different types of clutch masters with different fittings on them for the hard line, so be weary of that if replacing with new.

There’s a 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder shift linkage, the 6 being 20mm-ish shorter, but can cut and weld the 4, or just get a DSSR.

Also need  the front half of the drive shaft as is a different length to the auto, and I think is different between a getrag 220 and the zf, the zf being the stronger box correct to a 328i, but 220 is more common  being fitted to the 325i and down. 
Are also two different sized guibos (driveshaft couplers) so check for the right one of getting a new one. 
Oh, and some 4 cylinder drive shafts have a balancer on the front which fowls the shifter linkage and needs removed. 
 

think that’s about it. Definitely worth doing looking at the price of manual big 6 e36s currently, and even better if going from a horrid jatco auto!
 

 

Rev hang I can flash ecu for you. 

[dirtydoogle 383]

Different guibo is between ZF and Getrag boxes.

4 cyl driveshaft is a little longer on the front half, 4 cyl gearbox sits further forward 

4 cyl shifter will work on a 6, gear lever just sits 20mm back

Early clutch master is longer, has an aluminium housing and holds the pedal a bunch higher. Later master is a more natural pedal height, is plastic housing and uses a push in fitting with a clip. 

Later cars with dual mass flywheel had a clutch delay valve, throw that into the bin of replace with a new one 

 

Leave the auto shift selector in the car, in park or neutral position. It will fit under the console fine and means you don't have to bother joining 2 wires 

 

Try to use an m52 starter if you do it, the starter flange has threads, VS the stupid M50 nut and bolt