f20 116i Coolant outlet housing leaking

[318Touring 40]

Just got back from the indy who advised that the "Coolant outlet housing" is leaking and will need to be replaced. This is at the back of the engine.

Unfortunately they are going to source aftermarket parts.

Anyone knows what exactly this entails so I can go to BMW and get the parts myself? The indy can then fit it for me.
 

[Eagle 1662]

Have you got N13 or B38 engine?

Temperature sensor cracked (common issue on N13 engine) (no 5) or maybe the housing itself or seal has failed. Looks like you can replace the sensor from under the vehicle without taking much off.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1A12-EUR-10-2012-F20-BMW-116i&diagId=11_5012

[318Touring 40]

N13 

Could be the housing where numbers 5 and 7 are located?  That seems to be the only candidate for leaking.  I can't find anything else relating to this.

They said it's at the back of the engine and costs around $800 to replace using aftermarket parts.  I'm very tempted to get BMW to quote the work after telling them what's leaking.

[Eagle 1662]

I misread the diagram. The housing is part no 1 (11537600586) and appears the genuine BMW part contains everything - seals, hose and temp sensor (Some aftermarket kits appear to contain the temp sensor)

They are probably using something like this - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/radiators/listing/3873650419

Could just be the sensor leaking as mentioned above, maybe hard to differentiate between it and the flange and they just quoted you the whole job (probably requires removal of more stuff) 

[318Touring 40]

Thanks for clarifying this, in realoem it is shown as #1 - which I didn't spot until just now.

There isn't anything else at the back of the engine that's called 'housing' and can leak, is it?

Unfortunately the job sheet isn't very clear on whether the cost is part+labour or parts only.

"approx $805 for replacement housing and seals. Labour content is approximate as access to housing will require some disassembly of other engine components"

Hence I wanted to know which part will cost $800 that can leak.  Based on the information you have helpfully provided, the costs is a total of labour+parts and not parts only.

[Eagle 1662]

Not at the back but a few more around the engine. My old work place we stopped doing jobs like these because they all tend to start failing one after another, aka game of wack-a-hole. Most owners understandably don't want to keep spending 1000's on these sort of repairs.

[318Touring 40]

18 minutes ago, Eagle said:

Not at the back but a few more around the engine. My old work place we stopped doing jobs like these because they all tend to start failing one after another, aka game of wack-a-hole. Most owners understandably don't want to keep spending 1000's on these sort of repairs.

Understandable, especially the value of these cars drop by 50% every 3 years, and before long the cost of one repair is about 10% of the value of the car.  Unfortunate, as I think these are good cars and I'd rather drive a 6-7 year old BMW rather than a 2-3 year old Mazda. 

[Gaz 1060]

Common issue on these so dealer will be very familiar. Easy enough job if you've got small hands

[318Touring 40]

Update:  went to Conti BMW, bought the part, showed it to the local garage, confirmed it's the correct one - going in for replacement tomorrow.

[charles28 136]

On 11/29/2022 at 10:08 AM, 318Touring said:

Update:  went to Conti BMW, bought the part, showed it to the local garage, confirmed it's the correct one - going in for replacement tomorrow.

How many K's on your 116i? just so I know when to expect this perhaps. 

[318Touring 40]

10 hours ago, charles28 said:

How many K's on your 116i? just so I know when to expect this perhaps. 

59900 kms, 2013, NZ new

In actual fact, while buttoning up everything, something else was leaking coolant.  There was an O ring under the turbo that also leaked. 

I suspect it's the age of the car where everything starts to leak.

Annoyingly, there was no indication that anything was wrong apart from the one "engine temp' message that flashed, and the fact that the reservoir level was down below the Min level.  The engine's response itself was restricted by the ECU, but there was no code, no warning light, nothing, nada.  But without any code you would think that the car had always been that 'slow'.

This is my son's car and he's just got back from finishing his year-long TI at another city so I'd just been able to drive his car.  Don't know how long this had been an issue.