bravo 35 Report post Posted March 6, 2007 OK - no idea about the stiffness in springs between 4 and 6 cyl. Progressive rate - get stiffer the more they compress so softer ride, but still stiff under cornering etc. Forward rake - front slightly lower than rear - makes the car look more aggressive. Blue no-brands are on my car - I didn't write my post too well - they are not for sale. (Gus has first dibs if I ever sell anyway). Look in the for sale section - Andrews Jamex's may be the ticket - he's after $150. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted March 6, 2007 Ahh i see that clears things up. Oh hah i thought thats what u meant wasnt to sure though. Will have a look at Andrews Jamex's Cheers dude Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted March 12, 2007 Need to know the stock sway bars sizes for a 325i pre f/l if that makes any difference. Cheers Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted March 12, 2007 Does pre f/l interior (seats, door cards, etc) fit in a f/l? Yep! Does take some pissing around though, as the seat belts won't click if different connectors. So easiest thing to do is to leave the seat belts in your p/fl, then change the connectors to p/fl, or if you want to muck around for the actual seat belts, be my guest. Just not that automatic windows will have seperate holes, so in the back you will have the button holes cut-out, and no winder. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted March 13, 2007 Need to know the stock sway bars sizes for a 325i pre f/l if that makes any difference. Cheers Chris BUMP Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted March 13, 2007 (edited) Chassis, steering or suspension component - often the front control arm bush housing is the lowest point at the front. What you suggest would be one way to work it, but it's not exact. There are 3 or four different thickness spring seat pads standard on e30's - if you are too low, get one o the thicker pads. A 50-55mm drop will have you pretty much on the 100mm limit generally depending on how much weight you cart about in terms of sounds, how flat your tyres are etc. I've gone 60mm drop in front and 40mm rear, perfect stance IMO and gets warrants no worries, and that was with smaller tires as well. I never actually measured before and after so its possible my car is sitting a little high. Edited March 13, 2007 by Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted March 13, 2007 Need to know the stock sway bars sizes for a 325i pre f/l if that makes any difference. Cheers Chris 20mm front and 12mm rear, unless it has mtec suspension they may be bigger. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted March 13, 2007 Cheers dude. Didnt happen to find those pics did ya? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted March 13, 2007 Yip, check your other thread. not that useful sorry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bimmer boy 21 Report post Posted March 13, 2007 Are the front speakers in a E30 5.25" like the rears? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 13, 2007 Yep, but 6.5" will fit (may need very thin spacers - I used a piece of corrugated cardboard for my spacers and worked fine.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M325is 0 Report post Posted March 17, 2007 HI there, I cant find the old thread on idle problems. As now its my turn. Just restored the engine on my M325i, new everything. Took it down to hamilton and back for my first run in and found that when it got warm and I had to either stop to give way or for a traffic light it would stool on me, the revs would just drop. So Im trying to pin point this problem. I have bled the coolant properly, what else could cause this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted March 17, 2007 HI there, I cant find the old thread on idle problems. As now its my turn. Just restored the engine on my M325i, new everything. Took it down to hamilton and back for my first run in and found that when it got warm and I had to either stop to give way or for a traffic light it would stool on me, the revs would just drop. So Im trying to pin point this problem. I have bled the coolant properly, what else could cause this? check your idle valve, if you have a bentley manual there is a whole bit on this problem. Turn on the ignition and feel it, it should be buzzing. (first check). Also check the throttle position switch (tps) is working and set properly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
martyyn 2 Report post Posted March 17, 2007 When I had a similar problem it was the rotor arm, make sure you check the simple things before getting too involved. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
POWER 0 Report post Posted March 18, 2007 (edited) Hey guys Im Mat from Welli. Im in the market for a new Car at the moment and Im just wondering, how much would I be looking at if I was wanting to buy an e30 325i? Any help would be appreciated. Edited March 18, 2007 by Mat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 18, 2007 $4500-5500 for a good manual one. $8k plus for a good m325i (uprated suspension, LSD plus a couple of other bits). As little as $2k for an auto in average to below average condition. Roughly - there are deals and rip-offs to be had - par for the course. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLLIE 26 Report post Posted March 18, 2007 i am looking at buying an E30 with airbag suspension. My Question is .... How easy is it to swap back to the original suspension setup and what is involved? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted March 18, 2007 (edited) E30 Wagon on trade me?? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-91592558.htm If it is the underbody wont be in very good condition... Seen it draging on its ass on the motorway. How much you selling the airbag kit for?!! And yuh its pretty simple to convert back to stock, Most of the airbag stuff for E30's is bolt it. Unless its been bodydropped etc Edited March 18, 2007 by ED1RTY Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 18, 2007 It would depend on the exact setup - if they used original suspension points with bags setup to mount in stock locations, then not too hard, but if fabricated mounts etc, then may be difficult esp since you would have to make sure nothing they did contradicted the series rules regarding modification to chassis etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted March 19, 2007 When i was enquiring about bagging my car they were going to use air struts in the front and bags in the back that just sit on the normal spring perch with a locking collar. Id say it would be the same. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted April 19, 2007 (edited) I'm removing my manual setup, I've just purchased a 90bux air wrench yet still struggling to remove the 20mm bolts on trany and even the 17mm? on the driveshaft!? Used CRC and cranked it on different speeds. Any tips???? [Rattle has clutch] Edited April 19, 2007 by JP Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rowanhol 0 Report post Posted April 24, 2007 I'm removing my manual setup, I've just purchased a 90bux air wrench yet still struggling to remove the 20mm bolts on trany and even the 17mm? on the driveshaft!? Used CRC and cranked it on different speeds. Any tips???? [Rattle has clutch] If the bolt heads are easy enough to get to try tapping them with a hammer..with a small amount of force. if all else fails apply heat, mmmm blow torches are fun Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nz320i 0 Report post Posted April 24, 2007 heat - expands metal??????? surely not? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bimmer boy 21 Report post Posted April 24, 2007 heat - expands metal??????? surely not? Its a true story Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rowanhol 0 Report post Posted April 24, 2007 i think the heat helps break the bond between the two metals letting them pull apart,especially bolts that have been in since new and corroded into place.not 100% sure but it seems to work quite well Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites