Engine Change on the cards

[MADBMA 0]

Hey guys, im looking to swap the pidly 318is m42 engine for the big brother m52 2.8 dohc,

my cars just over 200,000km and the way i drive id say its got 1 or 2 years tops in it.

now at the moment my 318is is a manual, so im wondering if that manual gearbox will line up with the m52 and be strong enough to cope, if i cant get it to work with the manual gear box ill go for a different engine alltogether, i wont be caught dead drving a auto, and trying to find a manual gearbox for one of these is near impossible.

the front ends of the e36s are basically the same aye? i mean i shouldnt have to modify firewalls or mounts to get this engine to fit aye?

other engines i thought about were nissan skyline 2.5 twin turbo, would be cool but not to sure if itll be possible yet.

or an old school V8 into it, saw one of these up in meri meri start of this year, sounded awsome.

[smokenbaby 0]

Hey guys, im looking to swap the pidly 318is m42 engine for the big brother m52 2.8 dohc,

my cars just over 200,000km and the way i drive id say its got 1 or 2 years tops in it.

now at the moment my 318is is a manual, so im wondering if that manual gearbox will line up with the m52 and be strong enough to cope, if i cant get it to work with the manual gear box ill go for a different engine alltogether, i wont be caught dead drving a auto, and trying to find a manual gearbox for one of these is near impossible.

the front ends of the e36s are basically the same aye? i mean i shouldnt have to modify firewalls or mounts to get this engine to fit aye?

other engines i thought about were nissan skyline 2.5 twin turbo, would be cool but not to sure if itll be possible yet.

or an old school V8 into it, saw one of these up in meri meri start of this year, sounded awsome.

Here is a list of parts and basic info for the swap

Parts Needed:

-Engine: Any M50 or similar engine will work. We personally prefer the post 92 m50 engines since it came equipped with VANOS, a form of variable valve timing (for more info consult your Bentley Manual).

Engine Mounts: Use the standard e36m50 aluminum engine mount arms, along with the e28 535i motor mounts. These do not have to be modified. Use the outter hole on the e30 subframe vs. the inner hole which is used on the m20 engine. The m50 engine will bolt right in, no mods, welding, cutting, needed.

Oil Pan: An e34 525i M50 oil pan will be needed, along with the e34 525i oil sump, and the e34 525i dipstick tube and dipstick (and of course an oil pan gasket). This is needed to clear the subframe and sway bar in the e30. With the e36m50 oil pan removed, you will have to remove the e36m50 oil windage tray for clearance. There is also a brace for the e36m50 oil sump pick up that has to be removed in order for the e34 oil pan to fit. Since the bearing cap bolts have to be removed in order to take the brace out, and the fact that we do not want to wait for the dealership's special ordered parts to come in, we just broke the old bracket off by bending it back and forth until it cracked off.

Throttle Cable: The throttle cable from the e36 will be needed due to fitment issues. We tried both; the e36 works. We also wanted the cruise control to work, so we took the end from the e36 and replaced the e30 end with the e36 connector to mate up to the throttle body. The stock routing remained the same.

Radiator: Both the e30, and the e36 325i radiators will work. We chose to go with a new Bher e36 325i radiator which is actually cheaper than the e30 325i, by a few bucks. The hoses from the e36 325i were used as well. We found that the e30 radiator may have provided more clearance for an engine fan. We currently do not run an engine fan and we have had no problems of overheating as of yet (knock on wood). You CAN fit a fan but it is extremely close. An electric fan is ideal. Be sure to throw out the plastic thermostat housing and update this with the aluminum styled thermostat housing, and a new thermostat. This is cheap and will save you headaches later on.

Air Intake: Due to space limitations, neither the e30 or e36 air box will fit once the 24 engine is installed. To compensate for this, we simply used a cone style filter and custom welded a bracket to hold the air flow meter and filter.

Temperature Sending Unit: This was a pain to figure out. Cut to the chase, we use the temp. gauge sender out of the e30 m20. This is the BROWN sender with the single lead coming out from it, not the double. Threads neatly into the m50, and used the same connector.

-Transmission: Word on the street is that the e30 M20 5 speed transmission will work in the m50 conversion. We did not do this, so the information is still undetermined. We used the stock transmission that came out of the 93 325i, but any 325i e36 transmission will work. This allowed us to used the e30 driveshaft which bolts right up to the newer transmission. Change your clutch! This is the perfect time to install a new clutch and it is no fun with this drivetrain in an e30 later on.

Shifter: Stock e36 325i shifter base with all the accessories. We opted to go with the Z3 shifter which creates a shorter throw in the shift pattern. We found the Z3 shifter to be better than the stock e36 shifter handle, but we were not as wild about it as some people are. But $79.95 beats $300 for a UUC or similar handle.

Transmission Brace: Stock e30 transmission brace, was used along with optional e21 320i, transmission mounts. We chose these mounts vs. the standard e36 mounts due to their thicker 12mm studs and better overall structural integrity. If you use the 320i mounts, the transmission brace holes will have to be enlarged from 10mm to 12mm to accommodate the studs, and the transmission ears also have to be opened slightly.

Reverse Light Switch: e30 reverse light switch, can thread into the e36 transmission. This will allow you to use the existing reverse light switch wiring. The e36 wiring that comes on the engine harness can be neatly tucked away.

Guibo (Flex Disc), THIS IS COOL!: We found that the standard e30 10mm bolt holed guibo can work with the swap. Does this mean that the e30 guibo can be used on the e36? Perhaps! And it is $20 cheaper than the e36 guibo. If anyone has more info as to whether or not this will work I would love to know.

-Driveshaft: The stock e30 5 speed driveshaft will work fine, or you can also use the e36 driveshaft that had the four bolt rear section that mounts to the differential output flange. The later e36 shafts with the CV joint style will not work. If you are using the e36 shaft, be sure to install the e30 driveshaft center support bearing.

[westy 614]

I believe he wants to do this on an e36 not an e30.

Nice post tho

MADBMA,will probably cost less to buy a 328.

Dont know about gbox fitment but,I wouldnt trust a 4 cyl gbox behind a m52b28.

[BM WORLD 1260]

yes 2.8 will fit to 4 cyl gearbox , but might not last behind that torque . should be alright though , i sold a 4cyl one to a 320i owner .

as above prob easier to just buy 328i , they come up now and then $5k upwards

[TronSpec 0]

Here is a list of parts and basic info for the swap

Parts Needed:

-Engine: Any M50 or similar engine will work. We personally prefer the post 92 m50 engines since it came equipped with VANOS, a form of variable valve timing (for more info consult your Bentley Manual).

Engine Mounts: Use the standard e36m50 aluminum engine mount arms, along with the e28 535i motor mounts. These do not have to be modified. Use the outter hole on the e30 subframe vs. the inner hole which is used on the m20 engine. The m50 engine will bolt right in, no mods, welding, cutting, needed.

Oil Pan: An e34 525i M50 oil pan will be needed, along with the e34 525i oil sump, and the e34 525i dipstick tube and dipstick (and of course an oil pan gasket). This is needed to clear the subframe and sway bar in the e30. With the e36m50 oil pan removed, you will have to remove the e36m50 oil windage tray for clearance. There is also a brace for the e36m50 oil sump pick up that has to be removed in order for the e34 oil pan to fit. Since the bearing cap bolts have to be removed in order to take the brace out, and the fact that we do not want to wait for the dealership's special ordered parts to come in, we just broke the old bracket off by bending it back and forth until it cracked off.

Throttle Cable: The throttle cable from the e36 will be needed due to fitment issues. We tried both; the e36 works. We also wanted the cruise control to work, so we took the end from the e36 and replaced the e30 end with the e36 connector to mate up to the throttle body. The stock routing remained the same.

Radiator: Both the e30, and the e36 325i radiators will work. We chose to go with a new Bher e36 325i radiator which is actually cheaper than the e30 325i, by a few bucks. The hoses from the e36 325i were used as well. We found that the e30 radiator may have provided more clearance for an engine fan. We currently do not run an engine fan and we have had no problems of overheating as of yet (knock on wood). You CAN fit a fan but it is extremely close. An electric fan is ideal. Be sure to throw out the plastic thermostat housing and update this with the aluminum styled thermostat housing, and a new thermostat. This is cheap and will save you headaches later on.

Air Intake: Due to space limitations, neither the e30 or e36 air box will fit once the 24 engine is installed. To compensate for this, we simply used a cone style filter and custom welded a bracket to hold the air flow meter and filter.

Temperature Sending Unit: This was a pain to figure out. Cut to the chase, we use the temp. gauge sender out of the e30 m20. This is the BROWN sender with the single lead coming out from it, not the double. Threads neatly into the m50, and used the same connector.

-Transmission: Word on the street is that the e30 M20 5 speed transmission will work in the m50 conversion. We did not do this, so the information is still undetermined. We used the stock transmission that came out of the 93 325i, but any 325i e36 transmission will work. This allowed us to used the e30 driveshaft which bolts right up to the newer transmission. Change your clutch! This is the perfect time to install a new clutch and it is no fun with this drivetrain in an e30 later on.

Shifter: Stock e36 325i shifter base with all the accessories. We opted to go with the Z3 shifter which creates a shorter throw in the shift pattern. We found the Z3 shifter to be better than the stock e36 shifter handle, but we were not as wild about it as some people are. But $79.95 beats $300 for a UUC or similar handle.

Transmission Brace: Stock e30 transmission brace, was used along with optional e21 320i, transmission mounts. We chose these mounts vs. the standard e36 mounts due to their thicker 12mm studs and better overall structural integrity. If you use the 320i mounts, the transmission brace holes will have to be enlarged from 10mm to 12mm to accommodate the studs, and the transmission ears also have to be opened slightly.

Reverse Light Switch: e30 reverse light switch, can thread into the e36 transmission. This will allow you to use the existing reverse light switch wiring. The e36 wiring that comes on the engine harness can be neatly tucked away.

Guibo (Flex Disc), THIS IS COOL!: We found that the standard e30 10mm bolt holed guibo can work with the swap. Does this mean that the e30 guibo can be used on the e36? Perhaps! And it is $20 cheaper than the e36 guibo. If anyone has more info as to whether or not this will work I would love to know.

-Driveshaft: The stock e30 5 speed driveshaft will work fine, or you can also use the e36 driveshaft that had the four bolt rear section that mounts to the differential output flange. The later e36 shafts with the CV joint style will not work. If you are using the e36 shaft, be sure to install the e30 driveshaft center support bearing.

Haha Nice cut and paste smokenbaby.............

Mate this swap has being covered heaps. Check out R3vlimited.com . I've put the 92 e34 nonvanos motor in my e30 with my standard 320i 5spd behind it. Car's running but not quite driving as I'm still making gearbox cross member. The biggest issue you've got with your swap is the wiring and ews security that they have. Hence why I used the older nonvanos motor. If you really want the 2.8 then get one out of a e34 or e39 and use aftermarket computer. If ya got any question's just ask dude. I know this swap inside and out........

[TronSpec 0]

All the info you need is on this forum. here's a link to a helpful thread just to get you started. Believe me if you run into any trouble you just take a picture and tell them your problem and they'll have it anwered in like 2 hour's. f**kin american's haha got nothing better to do. i used this for pretty much all the info I needed for my swap

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=63971

[smokenbaby 0]

Haha Nice cut and paste smokenbaby.............

Yes, is a very good cut/paste. But hey, what is a guy to do.