Brakes

[martyyn 2]

So, my 325 fails its wof because the brake lining warning light is on, it goes on and off all the time. I checked the brake pads when I put the Alpinas on it they all looked ok to my untrained eye.

Now Ive seen the sensors off the car and only seen close up pictures of them on the car....so does anyone have a 'wider angle' picture of the assembly so I know exactly what Im looking for. Ill get the car up sometime this week but I was hoping someone might have a piccie

Second thing is that I was sitting in it today with nothing switched on, pressed the brake pedal and heard a noise from under the passenger seat. Was just like you sweezing a teat (settle down at the back) definately air being pushed out and not sucked in.

Any ideas ?

[TronSpec 0]

So, my 325 fails its wof because the brake lining warning light is on, it goes on and off all the time. I checked the brake pads when I put the Alpinas on it they all looked ok to my untrained eye.

Now Ive seen the sensors off the car and only seen close up pictures of them on the car....so does anyone have a 'wider angle' picture of the assembly so I know exactly what Im looking for. Ill get the car up sometime this week but I was hoping someone might have a piccie

Second thing is that I was sitting in it today with nothing switched on, pressed the brake pedal and heard a noise from under the passenger seat. Was just like you sweezing a teat (settle down at the back) definately air being pushed out and not sucked in.

Any ideas ?

My car fail a wof on the same thing

That noise sounds weird martyn not sure on that. But if you want a cheap fix for your brake pad warning sensor light just remove the cable containing the wires form the front and rear calipers (only wire type cable going into the the back side of the caliper and use some side cutters and chop them off leaving the two wires bare. Link them up together in a "close loop" fashion and solder together. Now your warning light will never come on ever again. Just have to remember to check your pads every now and then for wear

Edited February 19, 2007 by TronSpec

[efirty 0]

Thats strange. I took my car in for a warrant on Friday, and noticed that the brake lining warning light was on. The inspector told me that it wasn't a problem and that it was not affecting the overall safety of my vehicle, and then tried to explain to me exactly what Tronspec just said about soldering the two wires together. I guess i could be concerned that my car didn't quite have a thorough inspection.

[cainchapman 0]

I would ask what their justification for failing on a tell-tale light is.

The rolling road test for brakes either passes the car, or it doesn't. And even then they guess the weight of your car to come up with a pass/fail anyway.

If they inspected your pads/discs and failed it, sure. But the light is a joke.

Like failing my car on an EDC or ABS warning. They are not part of the WOF test.

[TronSpec 0]

yeah cain's right.

But some inspectors are f**kin full of sh*t and have no common sense.

For example I worked on a customer's car the other day after it failed on brakes ( worn pad's & rotors ) but then after I jacked it up and got the wheel off I noticed it was missing a split pin through the balljont bolt that locks the nut on.

Now to me this is an obvious saftey failure yet they didn't even notice it at the time classic example of how bullshit these guys can be

Edited February 19, 2007 by TronSpec

[martyyn 2]

They failed it on the basis that its a warning light in full view of the driver. At the time (two weeks ago) the light would be on all the time.

Now it comes and goes. I think the brakes and pads were done a few months before I bought it and was wondering if either the sensors hadnt been replaced properly (in which case it should be on all the time) or the pads just hadnt bedded in yet.

I read yesterday that you can reset the light yourself by switching the ignition on but not starting it and having your foot on the brake for a minute....sounded a bit dodgy to me.

[Carl 3]

That squeezing noise from the passenger side is you pushing your brake on the RHD side in a LHD origin manufactured car. The brake booster is on the left, there's a bar running from the pedal box to the left where the original pedal box would be, do the math.

[Andrew 30]

They failed it on the basis that its a warning light in full view of the driver. At the time (two weeks ago) the light would be on all the time.

Now it comes and goes. I think the brakes and pads were done a few months before I bought it and was wondering if either the sensors hadnt been replaced properly (in which case it should be on all the time) or the pads just hadnt bedded in yet.

I read yesterday that you can reset the light yourself by switching the ignition on but not starting it and having your foot on the brake for a minute....sounded a bit dodgy to me.

Argue - they CANNOT fail it on a warning light. I have all my sensors disconnected (and on) and never fail.

[TronSpec 0]

That squeezing noise from the passenger side is you pushing your brake on the RHD side in a LHD origin manufactured car. The brake booster is on the left, there's a bar running from the pedal box to the left where the original pedal box would be, do the math.

haha well spotted Carl

i to have this squeezing sound now that I listen carfully

[kiwipetrolhead 1]

yeah cain's right.

But some inspectors are f**kin full of sh*t and have no common sense.

For example I worked on a customer's car the other day after it failed on brakes ( worn pad's & rotors ) but then after I jacked it up and got the wheel off I noticed it was missing a split pin through the balljont bolt that locks the nut on.

Now to me this is an obvious saftey failure yet they didn't even notice it at the time classic example of how bullshit these guys can be

> But some inspectors are f**kin full of sh*t and have no common sense.

I agree. I used to be a mechanic myself so I know what's safe and what's not. But whenever I go somewhere new I never let on to begin with. Then if they try any sh*t on, I have a good argument with them and I always win. And I don't go back there again.

My e21's pad wires are stuffed so the warning light will never come on. Yet one mechanic used to check all the pads in my cars (that's fine with me) and for three WOF checks in a row (over an 18-month period) he told me the rear pads needed replacing. But he still gave me my WOF each time despite that. He knew I was an ex mechanic though. Yip, the rear pads lasted for ages, even though they were quite low the first time he mentioned it.

So, yip - "some inspectors are f**kin full of sh*t and have no common sense"! I find the VTNZ type places are the worst. Generally most have a pack of Hitlers that can't make it as real mechanics, so they get jobs doing WOFs and nothing else. How totally boring would that be!

P

[kiwipetrolhead 1]

They CAN fail it on a warning light.

The argument is the manufacturer has included such items to ensure timely attention to items that affect the safe operating condition of the vehicle.

If you show up to a vehicle testing station with a light suggesting your vehicle needs attention it implies you have not dealt with it in a timely fashion and if they pass you the next time you will be taken to task is 6 months later.

They are getting tough on airbag, ABS and brake system lights

Simple answer just get it fixed.

PS if you go back for a re-check they may check that you have not just removed the lamp - I had an issue with the seat occupancy detector for the air bag in my E39 and despite the fact that I had a dealer invoice for the repair work they cycled the car on and off several times to ensure I had not fudged the warning light.

I also had an issue on my E36 where they failed it on a ball joint, which had been replaced by a dealer a month earlier. They would only pass it with a written statement from the dealer that it was to manufacturers specifications , and they took a copy of the letter for their file.

See.. I told you that "vehicle testing station" type places are generally a bunch of Hitlers. I never have this sort of nonsense in small garages.

P

[MADBMA 0]

ive been going to VTNZ places never had a problem, the last two times i went my brake light was up indicating that i needed to replace the brakes, but they didnt say anything, ive tripped out the wire now, and when i did finaly replace the brakes there was heaps of wear still left on them!! i put new ones in anyway but kept the old ones just incase.

i dont think it should be somthing they can fail you on, how is it unsafe to drive with that light on?, the light comes on a good 3 - 4 months before you really need to replace your brakes.

[Andrew 30]

They CAN fail it on a warning light.

The argument is the manufacturer has included such items to ensure timely attention to items that affect the safe operating condition of the vehicle.

If you show up to a vehicle testing station with a light suggesting your vehicle needs attention it implies you have not dealt with it in a timely fashion and if they pass you the next time you will be taken to task is 6 months later.

They are getting tough on airbag, ABS and brake system lights

Simple answer just get it fixed.

PS if you go back for a re-check they may check that you have not just removed the lamp - I had an issue with the seat occupancy detector for the air bag in my E39 and despite the fact that I had a dealer invoice for the repair work they cycled the car on and off several times to ensure I had not fudged the warning light.

I also had an issue on my E36 where they failed it on a ball joint, which had been replaced by a dealer a month earlier. They would only pass it with a written statement from the dealer that it was to manufacturers specifications , and they took a copy of the letter for their file.

Incorrect -

They can ONLY fail it on Airbag/ABS lights (These are in the WOF schedule). Nothing to do with brake wear. The brake wear test comes under the roller test or a drive of the car/visual inspection. I flicked through the whole WOF manual when they were failing my racecar on stupid stuff like that.

[martyyn 2]

Well Ian and I tried to sort this out last night and it looks like new sensors are in order. The rear one has been cut at some point and soldered back together (but looks ropey) and the front has a loose connection.

They arent expensive so replacements will be ordered. Ill have chat with the bloke sometime this week to sort out why he thinks it should fail.

I initially didnt think it was a problem, especially seeing as the sensor is on way before the pads need changing so Ill argue that and see what he says.

In the meantime I may try cutting the existing ones and looping them up to see if that does anything.

[will 169]

My wagon is doing this at the moment. Both sensors are fine, checked for continuity, tried the shorting trick, no difference, light stayed on, so removed the bulb. Brake pads are new so have many K's before I need to check it again.

The wiring loom has seen some plonker into it at some stage so I suspect that the circuit is damaged and open circuit. I will fix it when I am bored but in the meantime the bulb removed got it through a warrant.

I can send you a wiring loom diagram if you want to try to trace it.

Will