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About actletpone

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    2nd Gear

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    E30 325i SE

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  1. Have found a b pillar trim. Really need a fuel pump connector. Have a cheap chinese antenna but will look into new oe antenna, still keen on a nz radio (not the sony one).
  2. Was having a cleanup and found a cambelt I forgot I had. $25 shipped https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1875763193 Also still have this pair of E30 high beams lying around $50 pickup $65 shipped
  3. I have a clarion radio currently with red lighting, want to find an e36 style factory deck with nz frequencies to play with. Will check mercs for power antennas at to scrap yard
  4. hi,

    yes  u  still looking  for a  power antenna ? 

  5. Hi guys, As above I am after the following parts for my e30: Factory power antenna Interior right hand sand B pillar trim for 4 door (where the seat belt is) mine has de-laminated. Factory radio from e30 or e36 with nz frequencies, so must be nz new Fuel pump connector holder thing see photo, is there a common term for this thing which holds the two connectors? or is it a bmw part? mine is broken and the connectors keep coming loose Updated to add fuel pump connector
  6. 3 years.. really? believe it or not they still haven't been painted Any advice appreciated, thanks
  7. Updated - reduced to $1200 if anyone is insterested
  8. Home again so car is available to purchase. Took it for a drive today. Ran fine. Going to put rego on hold too so new owner just has to pay from change of ownership date. Edit: Rego now on hold
  9. Going away soon so no longer available at the moment. Will probably be up for sale again in a month or so.
  10. Wasn't aware I would be sent the bill up until the ownership change date, not that it makes much difference as rego is pretty cheap now. It's something that is in the buyers favour then as they will only have to pay from the ownership change date? I can't pay rego at the moment as to pay rego it needs a current wof.
  11. BMW 1996 E36 318is 217,000 km's Overall a good low cost runabout once it has a little bit of work Positives: New front tyres 6+ mm tread New drive shaft guibo + I think a control arm at last wof - can't find receipt but will have another look Fold down rear seats Drives well, good runabout been daily driving it for about 10 months, trans shifts fine Propbably one of the best looking cars in this price range Did several preventative maintinance things when I got it Replaced Coolant, pulled waterpump out to check it and replaced it with a metal impellar one in good condition, replaced brittle plastic cooling hose, checked thermostat and several other preventative maintinace things such as clearing leaves and dirt out of windscreen gutter so the ecu is not at risk of flooding (common issue). Negatives: Rear windows leak slightly in heavy rain Standard e36 interior, roof lining is stapled up and fabric on doors is loose Slow leak in radiator heaps of replacements at pick a part for $68 (has not overheated). Leaves a bucket lid sized puddle when parked up. When I cold start it parked uphill I have to keep the revs up with the pedal for about a minute or it tries to stall I think because the ICV sticks. Heaps at pick a part for $18. Cold starts fine on flat. No wof, took it for a test, failed on RH inner tie rod end / washer jets not working and wipers need replacing, quoted $250 including gst. Will need a new RR tyre for next wof too as it was right on the limit (RL tyre is 4+mm). When I got new front tyres (ling longs) they were $100 each. I swore I would never put ling longs on a car but honestly they are not bad for a runabout, I tried getting some good second hand tyres at the time but they were all rubbish (cracked etc). Rego on hold Purchased this so I had a car to drive around while I work on the E30, in the meantime I bought a van for a road trip. Have returned from road trip now and am not ready to sell the van. Don't have the time or space for 3 vehicles. Selling 'as is where is' without current wof or rego.
  12. I am after an e30 power antenna for a facelift.
  13. Poked around under the wheel arches while sweeping the garage. Most of this is from the rear left arch, not the first time I have cleaned it, amazing how much dirt can build up. Saw the first e30 at pick-a-part for a while, 2.5 manual! Unfortunately in the 7 days it was in the yard before I got there it was nearly completely stripped. Might be a good thing knowing my spare part collecting habit. Got the piece of plastic trim which runs along the boot as mine is all cracked + a bunch of plastic clips etc New cambelt + waterpump Tested the injectors (purchased rebuild kit from ebay a while ago), jumped fuel pump relay to make sure none were leaking, tested resistance = ok. The first time I put pressure to the fuel rail it appeared my feed hose clamp was leaking but it still leaked after I tightened it, closer inspection revealed the fuel hose was cracked, lucky I noticed. THIS IS THE FUEL HOSE I REPLACED ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO: I assume the problem here is a google search tells me SAE 30 R7 is not suitable for 'Fuel Injection' you should use SAE 30 R9. Why is it labelled 'injection hose' then? Seems to mainly be the outer layer which is cracked. The hose is codan brand, a google search tells me codan is good, a google search also tells me people have had 'R9' hoses crack after a couple of years, even 'Gates' brand R9 hose. Then there is a question of whether those people received 'genuine' 'Gates' hose or not. Substandard parts are frustrating, can't trust anyone anymore. Purchased some SAE 30 R9 hose, replaced the feed line, still have the original return hose on the car (not cracked), holding off replacing it as currently I trust that 27 year old hose more than the new stuff. Sending injectors away for a flow test / cleaning seems to run about $200 - $250 so I came up with a backyard solution. You need something to pulse the injectors because if you hold them open for too long it might damage them. Below is an 'em276 injector tester' cost about $40. I jumped the fuel pump relay and ran the injectors for 30 seconds each timed against a stop watch. If you do this I suggest a fused wire with a switch to jump the pump relay (be careful with sparks around fuel vapour!) Some empty bottles allowed for observation of the spray pattern All even. A 60 second test is probably better for the bottle size. Decided there was no reason to rebuild them but then I tried cleaning the pintle caps with degreaser which was a mistake as the dirty degreaser got stuck underneath them. So I replaced the pintle caps and decided I might aswell use the rest of the rebuild kit aswell, the basket filters looked clean when I pulled them out, new orings etc. I don't think I gained anything doing this as the injectors were already working well. but anyway, rebuilt, re-flow tested and reinstalled. Degreaser did not do much while trying to clean the inside of the intake manifold but sca throttle body / card cleaner did. New 'rein' 3 way heater hose to replace the original with bulging end. Annoyingly the bit by the overflow tank is about 1 inch longer than the original for some reason, still usable but doesn't sit properly (doesn't fit into clamp in the back of air box). New intake gaskets, it seems they commonly get oil soaked from the valve cover, maybe why they fail, so I tried something different. The outer edge of the gasket seems to be raw cut (doesn't have any coating) I assume this allows oil to soak into the gasket easier. So I put a FINE layer of silicone on the outer edge. I didn't use silicone on the gasket face itself, personally I am not a fan of silicone gasket goo, if bmw didn't put it there neither do I. Too many times I have seen / heard of it separating and ending up in the wrong place. I have seen people say torque specs are only for wheel bolts and head bolts. Each to their own, generally if I can find a torque spec I use it. Deleted more of the silicone hose that was on the car when I got it. This is the t-stat to throttle body hose, as mentioned before, I prefer the molded hoses, the silicone ones seem more trouble than they are worth. This one has yellow tape around it because it didn't sit properly and kept rubbing on something. Maybe the original hoses are molded for a reason. Motor is back together and running, haven't driven it yet as there are other things to be done...
  14. Thanks for the comment, really happy to hear it is still around, always wondered where it was now. Would love a photo if you happen to have one.
  15. Found this photo from a while ago (replaced dizzy cap + rotor) This is pretty much how the car sits currently. Pulled off intake manifold due to suspected intake gasket leak, confirmed leaking intake gasket, timing belt due for replacement so doing that at the same time. It has been a while since I painted the rocker cover + exhaust header so pleased to confirm the paint is holding up well (see page 1 for paint + process) Replaced smaller heater hose a while ago due to bulging. Apparently when they bulge they are likely to burst one day. This is the other heater hose a.k.a the one the links to t-stat housing and overflow tank a.k.a not a cheap hose. I am replacing this one now. I was pleased to find when draining the coolant that it was nice and clean.. It looks like there is a leak down the front of engine, cam seal possible suspect. I replaced this during previous head gasket change but decided not to offset it from the ridge on the camshaft. This time I have offset it slightly so hopefully it won't leak. New thermostat Valve adjustment.. Was mostly still within spec, just a slight tweak. More to come..
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