actletpone

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About actletpone

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    2nd Gear

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  • Name
    Ben
  • Location
    Bop
  • Car
    E30 325i SE

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    Male

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  1. Interesting article, wonder if anyone sells r12a in nz?
  2. A brief bit about the e36 a.k.a what has allowed me time to work on the e30.. a.k.a where my free time has gone recently #Needed a daily driver so I could work on the e30 without rushing to get it back together by Monday morning. #96 318is coupe slushbox. Purchased with faulty starter motor + no wof #First e36 I have had / worked on labelled everything took allot of reference photos and laid everything out so I knew how it went back together #Pulled starter motor out (Couldn't do it from underneath had to remove intake) tested starter and solenoid on battery = worked fine, pulled starter motor apart to check internals = no signs of shorting out or anything, installed back in car to load test = motor turned over fine. Starter motor contacts were really dirty = must have been the cause. Sounds easy but I spent allot of time on this car. #Checked everything else while I was in there (unknown car history so want to make sure it is a reliable daily). Fuel hose clamps were stuffed so put new ones on (I don't take short cuts on fuel lines). #Cooling system contained rusty water and hardly any antifreeze (not too worried just happy there was no oil in it). Expansion tank looked like a balloon so got a new one from the bone yard, also found a replacement for the famous m42 plastic cooling pipe which runs below the intake manifold (mine fell to pieces during disassembly) better to buy a new one but car was in unknown wof condition at this point so found an aftermarket one at the boneyard (aftermarket meaning it wasn't the original so probably wasn't that old) checked it wasn't brittle, tested thermostat in boiling water, checked water pump due to rusty water and not knowing age or condition (If you have pulled an m42 water pump before you might know it is not fun), took a couple of hours, found a jack handle was a good lever, made the mistake of not winding the assist bolts out evenly and snapped one of the ears. Got a new mint looking metal impeller water pump from the boneyard. Flushed out the cooling system and filled it with clean antifreeze. #Searched google for common e36 problems found leaves like to collect below the windshield cowling and block the drains allowing it to flood, build up and drown the ecu. Windshield wipers were a pain to pull off, seriously I had a harder time removing the wipers than the flippin water pump. CRC, gas torch, hammer, every method on youtube and they didn't budge. Ordered a wiper puller tool and decided I didn't want to wait for it to turn up, so I made one (have been wanting a reason to learn how to weld). Finally got wipers off and cleared leaves etc out of cowling and drains, checked ecu for signs of water = all looked good. #Took it for a wof, got some new tyres, needed ball joint and flex disc, decided I would rather spend my time on the e30 so paid the garage to do it #Car has fold down rear seats (half the reason I got it) incase you are wondering yes you can fit a bike in the back (front wheel removed). There is a couple of other things I want to do to it but they are not a priority. Unfortunately they don't seem to be worth much so trying not to spend too much time or $ on it. #Feels allot heavier than the e30 (because it is), like the look of it and the modern comforts of a newer car, driving an auto isn't as bad as I remembered (did I really just say that) I might retract it when I drive manual again. Anyway, back to the e30..
  3. Car had the sony radio from factory, but it was faulty. Spent way to long trying to fix it / deciding what radio to replace it with. Tried finding another sony but they seem to have a reputation for being flaky so didn't want to spend much on one. Didn't want a replacement that didn't suit the car, experimented with some old alpine units from early 90's toyota / honda some of them are nice, the honda one was the better option had front rca's and 25x4 internal amp but it didn't look as good (I would have removed the honda logo of course) , can't remember exactly but getting them to work properly was going to more trouble than it was worth, change lcd lighting from green to red, only front channels had rca out to put in the sony amp, still needed to wire in aux, had the factory blaupunkt booster amp in the boot but that meant hacking apart the factory harness which I didn't want to do incase I come across a working sony one day. Anyway ended up getting this from overseas, clarion fz102e, usb, red back lighting, aux no bluetooth unfortunately but I might change that one day. No battery in car atm so photo from google. Tried to leave the wiring as factory as possible. As the factory sony only has RCA outs into the factory amp the 12v power in the radio harness was a bit too small to properly support the internal amp on the clarion. There is an unused ACC 12v space in the fuse box but some google images of melted fuse box's scared me right of pulling mine apart and modifying it so I could use that. So I did the normal thing and ran a separate battery wire with inline fuse. Pushed wire through factory grommet behind glovebox Black conduit and inline fuse running with the rest of he cable along the firewall. If you can't see it I am happy. Didn't want to modify radio harness so If I came across a factory sony I could directly plug it back in. This meant instead of cutting wires and soldering I made my own harness that plugs directly into the factory 9 pin molex connector.
  4. I decided to see if there was any dirt under the rear spoiler one day when washing the car, that was worth while.. Picked up an IS style lip from Hans (mynbmr) on here, car looks naked without a lip imo, haven't installed it yet. Got some colour matched spray paint from supercheap + primer + gloss coat. The wing mirror had some rust bubbles so decided to try painting that at the same time. Happy with how it turned out (I am pretty fussy), followed spray can instruction exactly, if you did not know when looking at the car you would not notice.
  5. Can't believe it has been about 1.5 years since I have posted in here. Thing is I still have the car and have also picked up a e36 318is slushbox daily because that was the only way progress was ever going to happen on the e30. The daily was a small project in itself, thought about posting it on here but figured no one really cares about a 318 slushbox, might add a few photos in here, it's not really worth it's own thread imo. Have lost some photos in between different phones / computers but not allot has been done to the car since, basically haven't worked on it since last December. Now it is a project and not a daily driven project, hopefully progress will be a little quicker. Car developed suspected vacuum leak on the intake manifold gasket which gradually got worse, avoided pulling it apart because I knew I would want to do more work once I was 'in there' and that was not going to fit into a weekend, avoided driving it as I was worried about the fuel mixture, then stopped driving it all together, It has had one drive around the block in over 2 months! Anyway here are some of the photos I found starting from my last post. Being my third e30 I am fairly familiar with m20 idle issues, I have heard of and tested just about every possible cause in existence. For memory every winter the car hated idling at first cold start I tested everything and even made a smoke machine. When I got the car it had the miller maf but the miller chip was sitting in the ashtray, it had a bbr chip in the ecu which ran better with the maf than the miller chip? A search online tells me other people have had hit and miss luck with the miller maf. Anyway I eventually decided to put the stock airbox and chip back in as a good base line and that is how the car is currently. Even put a vacuum pump on the brake booster. Vacuum Fuel pressure, flow tested pump as well. Ended up putting in a new FPR Got rid of some more silicone hose. I actually like the look of the red hoses against the black engine paint but they are not worth the hassle. When I got the car they were everywhere but because they are not molded / made for the purpose they cause issues. The icv hose use to suck in on itself. This hose use to seep oil past the join and looked like a closed right angle on the throttle body end.
  6. thanks for the responses, I had a cold start issue (had to hold foot on throttle for first 30 seconds or it engine would cut out. temp sensor is fine), icv was not buzzing then started buzzing when I tapped it with a hammer. The following couple of days ICV buzzed but still had cold start issue but now the cold start issue has completely disappeared? Will be in touch in needed, cheers
  7. After an e36 318 idle control valve Part 13411433627
  8. I think you are right, thanks. Decided to risk it, disconnected battery for about a minute and radio turned straight back on when I reconnected it. Will see what it does after battery has been off for a long period.
  9. Hi, I am trying to find the code for an e36 radio. 1996 Japan import. Radio model CM5901J as pictured. Has metal tag on the back one letter, followed by 8 numbers. Strangely it does not say 'anti theft' on it like all the others? Or did some e36 radios not have a security code? Would rather find out first rather than disconnecting the battery and finding out it is locked.
  10. Looking for an e36 / e46 in the waikato /bop area No 316's or convertibles Must have fold down rear seats or be a compact 318ti Auto or Manual Looking for a cheap reliable daily, 1 - 5k as a guide
  11. updated
  12. Hmm I pulled the mechanical locking mechanism out, I understand now, how the arm actuates that piece up or down to lock / unlock the door. Funny thing is the locking cylinder will rotate CCW, and when I pulled the mechanical locking mech out of the door that lever which is actuated by the arm moved up and down as it should and locked / unlocked the locking mech. However now that it is all back together I still can't rotate the key CCW, meaning I cannot unlock from the drivers door. Pulling the interior lever with the door shut will lock / unlock both front doors and boot. Passenger door and boot also lock / unlock both front doors and boot with key. Rear doors have never worked, have not found out why.
  13. Have just rebuilt door lock but now it only turns in one direction. The 'arm' circled in the picture below was broken off on the old lock. With the new lock the arm will allow the piece it sits between to slide up but not down from the locks resting position. This means the lock only turn on one direction and does not turn in the direction needed to hit the micro switch. What is the arm and this sliding bit for? Why won't it slide down? (assuming it is meant to)
  14. Agree, more than willing to help but several good write ups on the internet just google search e30 buy guide
  15. Bump. Other bits gone. Have edited first post for what I have left.