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About Syy0628

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    1st Gear

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  • Car
    99 Subaru GF8 Impreza WRX
  • Car 2
    97 BMW e36 316i
  1. rounded breakline nut, help

    Can't seems to be able to find flared spanner anywhere? SCA doesn't have them in stock. I have tried a few hardware store, and have had no luck.
  2. Hey guys, I was replacing both the wheel cylinders on e36 316i because I was losing brake fluid and the first one came off easily, but the second one, I managed to round the nut a bit between the breakline and the wheel cylinder. I did use penetrating oil, but I used an open end spanner( I know, but that's what I have, and the other one came off easily), what should I do now? I tried to spin the wheel cylinder left and right, but it is not moving at all. thanks
  3. Help, crank no start problem e36

    It took castle parcel 4 working days to finally deliver the fuel pressure testing kit. The Courier didn't even bother to come down the driveway before I call the breach the second time. Just like *rUstY_nUts* said, it is low fuel pressure. But a steady 8psi is really weird, as it shows no sign of failure before, and suddenly died but not completely. Anyway, now I got a used fuel pump from pick a part, it is running alright now. thanks everyone for the help. One thing to note is that unlike normal Japanese car from the 90s, on BMW e36 m43 engined car, the coil side of fuel pump relay does not get power unless the DME sees all the signals it needs to start the engine(rpm is one of them, from crank position sensor). which means the fuel pump does not prime, nor does it work with the key at On position.
  4. Help, crank no start problem e36

    I bought the fuel testing tool from the link provided by Eagle, I should be able to diagnoses the problem properly this time. What are the common air leak location on a m43 engine, I have checked the all the intake boot before the throttle body, they are good.
  5. Help, crank no start problem e36

    Thank, this one is not too expensive. The one on sale at SCA is just ridiculous.
  6. Help, crank no start problem e36

    Thanks for the reply. I know sometimes the advice given on forum is not always accurate, most advice is based on people's experience. It can be the exact same problem or completely the opposite. Like Brain tumor will cause a headache but you have a headache doesn't really mean you have got a brain tumor. But it is always good to know what other people think about the problem. I do not plan to get it checked by a BMW specialist, I got the car for cheap, and I am learning to work on cars on this cheap e36. I have another car that is totally reliable if I have places to be. so I am not in a hurry. I have gone through the Bentley manual and find the BMW is quite interesting in design. I just hated the fact that tools are expensive in NZ, and there are no places to hire them from.
  7. Help, crank no start problem e36

    It's been a few days , today I installed new spark plugs and tried to start the car again, it wont idle, but I can get it to run by reving it to around 2000rpm. and after about 30seconds, I shut it off, and the spark plugs are covered in black powder like soot again. So is it running rich, or is it normal for cold start ? If it is abnormal, what can cause it to run rich? I would think that the fuel pressure regulator is bad? But would that cause the car to cut out at highway speed ? really need help Thanks
  8. Official Tools for Hire Thread

    Hi, I am a new member to the forum, I am currently working on my e36, I suspect a fuel system problem, do you happen to have fuel pressure gauge that I can borrow for a fee? I think my e36 316i with m43 is using M1.73 DME, does your scan tool work on my car? Can I borrow that as well? thanks
  9. Hi, My e36 316iA with m43b16 engine left me stranded on the state highway 1 last Sunday, I was doing 90kph slight downhill when the engine just lost power and rpm drop to 0. I taxied the car to the side of the road and checked the oil and coolant as I thought the engine seized, but both coolant and oil look good. Next, I pulled the spark plug, and I can see spark going and the spark plugs seem normal with good a bit red-ish color. I tried to start the car, it just cranks and won't catch at all. I jumped the fuel relay and I can get 12V and ground to the fuel pump, but the car still won't start. At that point, I thought I have a bad fuel pump, but when I took the pump off and bench tested it with a spare battery, it pumps fine, enough pressure to shoot gas right onto my face. So I changed the inline fuel filter, and it doesn't help either. I also checked the fuel pump relay coil side pin 85, 86, 30, 87 I am getting 12V at the fuel pump, so 87- fuse - pump circuit is good, and I bench tested the relay, it is working good. Pin30 is getting 12V at all time which is good, I am getting 12V from pin 86 when DME is turned on, but I got a strange 0.02V at PIn 85 and no continuity to chassis ground. I read it somewhere that a bad crank position sensor will stop the coil side of fuel pump relay getting power, so I tested it, and it seems good apart from quite dirty. In addition to that, I cleaned the MAF as well. Now I have put everything back and it sometimes starts but won't idle, and sometimes won't start at all. I pulled the plugs again, and there is black soot on the plugs? I was under the impression that I am not getting fuel so no start, but why is there soots on the spark plugs from I trying to start the car? note that when the car first broke down, the spark plugs look good. I am out of ideas, please help. as the problem is kind of interment. to conclude the problem above. When first broken down, won't start at all. Then after I took the fuel pump off and put back on, together with a new fuel filter, it won't start but catches sometimes. After I tested and cleaned the CPS and MAF it starts but won't idle but will stay at 1500rpm if I give it some gas. However it eventually died even with throttle input, and I discovered spark plugs covered in black soots. I cleaned the spark plugs, and now it won't start and catch occasionally. I think I should do a fuel pressure test, but I don't have the gauges and being a poor uni student, I am not going to tow it to the shop and pay for the repairs. Does anyone in the forum have fuel pressure gauges is kind enough to lend it to me for a few days? Sorry about the long and unorganized text written in shitty English, thanks in advance for advices and suggestions.
  10. Bad vibration on highway speed

    Hi, it's an old thread, but I haven't really solved my problem yet, I plan to install a second-hand drive shaft to see if it will fix the problem. Is all drive shaft for e36 automatic the same? I saw a driveshaft from e36 compact 318ti for cheap. my car is e36 316i sedan, will it fit?
  11. E36 Oil leak

    Yes, I think that's the only place where 316i come with leather seats and stuff.
  12. E36 Oil leak

    The O-ring I used at the first time was part of the kit, which I bought from BM workshop. They melted into one after the wrong installation. The current one I used is from the dollar store, they are softer than the one from BM workshop, don't know how long they will last. I put one dollar store O-ring in some used engine oil for one night, it is still alright, so I thought I will give it a try.since I am reusing the gasket anyway. I don't mind taking it apart again, it is relatively quick to do, about half an hour. now the leak is from the lightly damaged gasket instead of the valve plug. I just don't know if it is worth it to spend more money on this thing, I already regret buying this one, I was given the choice between a roadworthy high mileage 318isA for a bit more than 1 grand and this low mileage for the year lemon with like new interior for half the price, after I got it, I realized everything rubber and plastic is falling to piece, and a seized rear U-joint on the drive shaft. now I have already spend 200-300 on tyres and bushing on the chassis to make it pass warrant. (the previous owner left this car to die in his backyard after 2011) to make the car reliable, I think I will need a new radiator, a new water pump and all belts and idlers pulley and some more rubber parts, two struts, a rebuilt drive shaft. then change the ATF fluid and diff oil. Which comes together to about 1000 on parts only. for a 316i and for what I paid for it, that is a lot of money.
  13. E36 Oil leak

    The image is right after I pulled the OFH off the first time, so it is not clean. I took it apart the second time, the two O-rings is kind of melted into one is already a little bit hardened? for only one day? I almost think there is something wrong with my engine oil, the oil leak started not too long after I changed the oil.I used Nulon 5w30 SN grade because they are on sale and as cheap as milk. I did heard that some SN grade oil would harden rubber seal. but it is not supposed to be this quick. I found some 25x3.1mm O-rings and used those instead. The gasket seems to have a little bit damage from the incorrectly installed O-ring at the top (got squeezed by old O-ring), but I decided to reuse it anyway to try my luck, and most importantly because I am broke. The bad news is after I put everything back, it is still leaking a bit, much better than it used to be. I should not have saved the 20 bucks on a new gasket. And the worst news, the 20 years old radiator expansion tank cracked after I support my elbow on it while doing the job twice, now the oil leak is not so bad, but the water leak is as bad as the oil leak use to be... A new radiator is just too expensive, I guess I won't be able to drive it for some time.
  14. E36 Oil leak

    Damn, I think you are right. I found this picture online photo 4, the good one should look something like this. I am new to BMW, and I don't really know what I am doing. I should have asked you guys before I put it on. but hey, I learned something new(the hard way). someday, I will manual swap it and put an m52b28 in and play with the cam a bit. But I swear to god mine old ring looks like a part of the valve, and there is no gap whatsoever. Even the reception guy at BM Workshop part department couldn't tell. I went to buy the O-ring with the valve, and after I got the O-ring, I ask him about where the O-ring should sit, he had a good look at it and told me it is supposed to be on the outside, and then I asked him it doesn't look like it will fit since it is too wide for the gap, and he said, you have to lube it with engine oil, and it will fit. The question is can I reuse the gasket and O-ring this time? it is only on there for one day.
  15. E36 Oil leak

    thanks for your reply, yes I did used a new gasket, about the torque, somesay 20nm, is is not on the Bentley manual.