flake 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 You should have a positive power feed and the alternator feed on the big 13mm one, the power feed from the relay on the 10mm one, and the 8mm one is the accessory delete wire, not needed I believe, it stops the radio lights etc when you turn the key to start. thanks for that i've connected everything else but have just left the 8mm wire taped up incase i decide to use it. makes it much easier to get to everything with the inlet manifold off. Supercheap auto have 14" electric fans, like $80-$90 for one or two for $115... sweet i'll check them out. thats roughly how much i was expecting to pay for one didn't get her started today, had a play around with the wiring but managed to get it all tangled up and i got scared. i was also trying to figure how i'll insulate it, whether i just go mad with black tape and cable ties or if i try to use the original plastic cover. i seem to have an idea with it. and if all else fails. stand on your engine and look at sh*t re-fitted all the sensor plugs, heater coolant lines, ICV, starter motor wires, fuel lines, fuel rail, inlet manifold, coils packs and didn't want to look at the loom wires so i made a start on relocating the brake reservior. i was at bnt, repco and supercheap yesturday and none of them could help with pushlock type fittings and fitted into the rubber bungs on the master cylinder. *** (just to note i am using an e32 booster and M/C. to make the brake booster fit i had to slot the original mounting holes away from the engine to maximise the space between the booster and inlet manifold. also i grinded the finns off the inlet manifold and spaced the engine up 3mm to get clearance. and there is F@#K all. also had to rebend the brake lines to the M/C to get them to line up properly.) *** so being the master (apprentice) fabricator that i am. i got an idea to use copper tube to seal in the M/C and connect to the reservior as i have about 25meters of the stuff in the workshop. domestic copper was to big (1/2" ID) but i tried gas copper which is 1/2" OD (12.5mm outside diameter) and this fitted perfectly. so i bent up my lines to the reservior and connected to it with left over rubber fuel lines and hose clamps. but to stop the copper blowing out at the M/C end i put the rubber bung on first and "flared" the end of copper to produce a 45 degree lip all around it. this will basically make it impossible for the copper tube to slip out of the M/C and gives it a better seal. pictures cable ties are my best friend. finished product only things left to do is the exhaust, fit radiator and thermo fan, fill with fluids and bleed everything, install my wiring harness and get power and earths to whatever needs them, check everything is tight, get some front seats then do skids. yay BTW WTB. wow thats a coincidence of abbreviation. By The Way, i, Want To Buy. a set of black leather recaro front e30 seats only (not rears). a bit of a long shot but someone has to have something. name your price. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 Wow. You work fast! Pressures on for all the Wlly members, i leave at the end of next month so we'd better all get cars fixed/working etc for a decent meet-up! Cant wait to see it driving! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mark247 38 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 That's a cool idea with the copper piping. I used the propper little plastic elbow joins which cost something like $70nzd brand new because they come out of the weird model bmw. Pretty damn expensive.. Good work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Ari Gold Report post Posted April 25, 2010 That copper is rangi as f**k, and win at the same time. Nice one! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted April 28, 2010 Its been 10 days..... running yet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1039 Report post Posted April 29, 2010 hahahah meaaaaaan. Love the copper tube! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted April 29, 2010 Polish up the copper bro, haha. Nice work _b Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flake 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Its been 10 days..... running yet? wow 10 days went quick. plan was to have it running by friday to test it and drive to auckland on the saturday. so now i'm gonna postpone the trip till next saturday if i get the car running in time, if not it will be the next next saturday and so on till she runs. haven't gotten much more done since sorting the brakes on monday, stupid question but brake fluid isn't going to eat at the copper from the inside out is it? just wondering if i should remake them with stainless tube? mucked around with the loom wires, managed to reuse the e36 plastic loom holder. its not perfect but it looks abit more tidy. everything now has power to it and last night i began making my c101 to x20 connector. this morning i hooked the battery all up and put the key on, sweet, dash lights light up, sterio works, check panel tells me whats wrong (everything). take the key out, plug in my loom connector, turn key on again and go to engine bay to check for fires, nothing, go back into car ready to start the engine. (sniff, sniff) hmmm smoke. FFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU. key off, disconnect battery. guess i shouldn't have made my loom connector after 7 beers last night, woops. the smoke was coming out from under the dash on the drivers side so i'm thinking i have connected the wrong wire for oil level, tacho, coolant level or something to do with the gauge cluster. now the plan is to double check the wires on my loom connecter and connect the wires one at a time to see which one i'm doing wrong. another stupid question. what are the minimum wires i have to connect to get the enigne to start? as in, if by not connecting the engine speed, coolant temp or oil pressure will this effect anything for just getting the car to start? i am using the same wiring table as john did on his m50. advice? any clues? thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 394 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Don't connect the ones in red on the table. Or did you? Did you do it by pin # ? What year is the e30? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flake 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Don't connect the ones in red on the table. Or did you? Did you do it by pin # ? What year is the e30? definatly didn't connect any of the ones in red. my e30 is a 1990. when i labled everything i did it by pin# not colour, but all the wire colours matched up with pin# from that table. i also haven't connected c101 pin6 to x20 pin22. e30 ignition relay to e36 o2 sensor doesn't sound right. how did you get on with yours? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 394 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Well I'm pretty sure I did all of them except pin 8 on the c101, pin 20 and pin 10. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flake 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) on my e30 c101 side i haven't connected pin 6,8,10,12,20. sweet so 8,10,20 i don't need to worry about. i'm going to connect pin6 now. but reason i didn't do pin12 on c101 is cause there was no pin8 on my e36 side to connect it to. function of pin 12 on c101 is "ecu check engine". what does that mean? lolz Edited May 2, 2010 by flake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 394 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) Oh yeah I missed that one too, My e36 connector didn't have that either. It's just the check engine light on the instrument cluster, not all cars have.. Edited May 2, 2010 by e30ftw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flake 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 thanks john for running that by you of which wires i dont need. my bet is its something to do with spagetti wires in my loom connector. i'll give it a crack when i feel motivated tonight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) Did you remember to not connect the ABS wire....Mark had the same problem and it caused fires. Edited May 2, 2010 by Hellpina Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Give us a yell if you need help/motivation. Can even take you for a spin so you start missing the awesomeness of an E30 again Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flake 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 i found the problem hadn't taken anything apart yet or changed anything, i just wanted to see where the smoke was coming from so i braved it once more. connected my loom plug, hooked up the battery and popped my head under the dash and sure enough i could see a little flicker of light/fire. removed battery, took a photo and upload to bimmer. the photo is of the back of the rev-meter gauge so this suggests i've connected a wrong wire to do with rev-meter (tachometer? revometer? ??? ???) so plan is to go back to the wiring to see whats happening, take the dash out and see the damage. i dont think there will be much, at first glance none of the plastic coating on any of the wires looked bubbly or burnt. but i will need a new gauge cluster just to be safe. oh well it's all fun and games. i'll need a hand after 5 tomorrow for an hour to help remove the dash, never done it before and i hear its a prick of a job. cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 ^ Sorry bro I am busy writing essays and tryna diagnose what the frick is wrong with the green machine, busy tomorrow night, but if you want to wait till tues night I will give you a hand. I have done 4 dashes now, it's not that hard Check your fuses too for the instruments after that short out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 ^ Sorry bro I am busy writing essays and tryna diagnose what the frick is wrong with the green machine, busy tomorrow night, but if you want to wait till tues night I will give you a hand. I have done 4 dashes now, it's not that hard Check your fuses too for the instruments after that short out. Haha and i can help Monday, but working Tuesday night... and not entirely sure i'd be much help, we just brutalised mine till it came out when i built the cage... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 chop all the wires that u "adapted" in your adapter thing that go to the inst cluster. connect one by one and flick power on and see which one causes the short.... will make diagnosis much quicker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted May 18, 2010 Not that I'm impatient or anything.... but is this done yet? Running? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tibbs.james 1 Report post Posted June 15, 2012 Not that I'm impatient or anything.... but is this done yet? Running? Bumping mega old post i know Anybody have any leads on what happened to this car, I'm interested to know if it got parted out and such. Worst mistake i ever made to sell this car, still miss it heaps. I notice DNH570 on carjam is lapsed/dead Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
