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You can have your oil tested, it would be interesting to see after 25k. You take a small sample they analyse it for wear, carbon, water, fuel contamination etc etc Thats how they know to change oil on big engines esp diesels, like trucks, heavy marine or large power system generators. Mate works in that industry, recons that oil even tho it may look like dirty brown pooh still may be perfectly functional and have all the wear protection you need for a particular application. Test probably costs more than an oil change tho he he.

We got Branches all over the world , and I think your mum is a faraway auntie of my, txt me all the details Askan and I will get a price for you on Thuesday

Yes the old ones were the 17mm hex and they are being replaced with victor reinz torx bolts. The guy at the engine shop mentioned the importance of making sure the threads were clean. He suggested compressed air, which i don't have. He also recommended using brake cleaner, so I'm going to use that for now. Any other suggestions? Also I googled bottom tap, but still not sure what they do/how they are used? Would lubing it with engine oil be adequate or do I need special assembly oil? Totally agree! Have made sure I keep everything nice and clean/organized so far, reassembly should be easy. I'm back in Wellington as I have work tomorrow, but I'll head back to levin afterward. The plan is Sunday night clean the block, Monday get all the belts etc off (just going to grind my 32mm wrench as it's too wide to fit over fan clutch), Tuesday get the head back and on, then hopefully reassembly will all be finished by Wednesday! Edit: I've been forced to drive like a grandma since I started loosing coolant back in August. Once it's all back together, is there some sort of break in procedure/period, or can I clean out the cobwebs right away? I can't wait!!!!

Alright, princess is for sale, I dont have room or time for her anymore as other projects have taken priority, I would of liked to have super charged her but I just don't have the time. She makes a good paddock basher or skid car, or maybe a daily driver for your partner. Comes without the LSD diff, but I can throw in a welded diff thats in pieces, just needs a new input bearing. Has leather electric, heated E39 seats. good for winter paddock bashing. If you're interested, PM me.

Spare wheel well needs removing - it does'nt have a spare anyway - you can't fit one with the 7 seats anyway. I can't do a big thread yet... I already nearly gave up once*, and I'm still not 100% on the details of if it will work out. I have a semi-thread on nzveedubnuts. *Mrs went in the Touran, and thought it was powerful enough. I didn't agree. She was pregnant, so I didn't argue. Baby is out (3 boys now!), so I am safe to "discuss" it with her.

Get a 518i bagde from an E34.

This will help. Pins 1-2 are the ones to test, pin 3 is the shield. 540 ohms is ideal. There is no need to try to read from the plugs though, just plug the speed sensor into one of the engine loom plugs, then test at pins 47-48 (speed sensor) and 8-31 (cyl ID sensor) on the MCU plug. Whichever gives you a reading is the one you plugged the sensor into. Swap if necessary.

I think it's a silly interval on the n54 - with me running a tune and track days , I'm changing mine every 5k Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you want to give it an overhaul then you're up for gaskets, bolts, head skim etc to get the engine back to its original output. If you want more ponies, then high comp pistons, new cams, larger valves & port grinding, new rings, gaskets plus a remap / new DME etc etc etc. Be prepared to replace every o-ring, oil seal, hose and spend a LOT of time cleaning and polishing. Brother in law recently rebuilt his Audi 2.8 V6 using 30 valve heads etc, new pistons cost him well over $1500 before rings. If you just want a reasonably cheap bump in power go turbo. NA power can be had but good God it doesn't come cheaply. Probably the best bet is to start with another engine so yours is still on the road while you do the overhaul. Bear in mind that if you choose FI then you're probably going to need an uprated clutch and possibly a stronger diff as well. A lot of cash can be saved if you can weld / have a friend that will do it for you. As I've learned in the last year, any increase in oomph requires a lot of time and quite a bit of money. There are a number of threads around documenting various M10 rebuilds, spend a bit of time researching just what can be done and make a decision on your goals. Ie 300hp NA M10 is just dreaming, but with a turbo it'll be doable. Engine swaps are easier, but I personally wouldn't bother with anything less than a M52B28. Sohc just ain't worth the effort unless you have your heart set on one Good luck dude!

Nothing wrong with those pistons and bore from what I can see. There is also no real evidence of coolant getting into the cylinders as it would normally clean up the top of the piston it is leaking into, although the gasket does look a bit iffy between the water jacket and the bores in some cylinders (3, 4, 5). A very small leakage of coolant into a cylinder would not be that obvious from the cleaning of crud from the piston. There is still the possibility of a crack into the upper part of the head. Did you find evidence of oil/water sludge buildup under the rocker cover?

I have ordered it, I am happy to repay people for going to the effort and expense of making such a "specialist" film - rather than ripping it off from a free download, it's not like they are a major Hollywood outfit looking to make millions from the enterprise. Currently the distributor is out of stock of both the DVD and blue ray so waiting on a new shipment to arrive, hope it's soon I want to watch it all!

It's a selfie...

Hey Guys, I got my hands on Amit's (AMDAMAN) E46 M3 start of the year, and it really needed some TLC! Products Chemical Guys Honey Dew Snow Foam Chemical Guys Citrus + Gloss Hyper Wash Chemical Guys Medium Clay Kit Chemical Guys 3n Nano Pro Polish Chemical Guys Pete's 53 - Black Pearl Signature Paste Carnauba Wax Chemical Guys Green Clean All Purpose Cleaner & Degreaser Chemical Guys Extreme Leather Cleaner Chemical Guys Pure Leather Conditioner Chemical Guys New Look Trim Gel Tools Hose Karcher Water Pressure Washer x2 20L Plastic Bucket - Using the 2 Bucket Method Auto Masking Tape Chemical Guys Detailing Apron Snow Foam Lance - Karcher Fitting Meguiars Gold Class Deep Chenille Wash Mitt Detailing Brush Set Kestrel DAS-6 Power Plus Dual Action Polisher Lake Country Kompressor Orange Light Cut Chemical Guys Black Finishing Pad Hex Logic Chemical Guys Waffle Weave Huge SUV Microfiber Drying Towel Chemical Guys Elite Ultra-Plush Super Premium Microfiber Before Shots! Snow Foam! Chemical Guys Leather Cleaner and Conditioner! Swirls Galore Chemical Guys Clay Bar - To remove all contaminates that can't be seen by the naked eye, but can be felt by gliding your fingers over the top of the surface of the car, it'll feel very rough and not smooth at all. Single pass with the DA Polisher, Lake Country Kompressor Orange Pad and Chemical Guys 3n nano pro polish! Getting under the door handle with hand applicator, using the 3n nano pro polish After Shots!