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mine (full disclosure - it's a 3L so slower warmup) takes ~15mins on the motorway for temp to get to centre of gauge. slightly faster in summer. I would be unhappy doing less than 40k round trip in mine

Short trips of only a couple kms is torture for any ICE, condensation never has a chance to evaporate and the oil gets contaminated very quickly with fuel, moisture etc.

Have been tuning system by ear but also have to finish tidying up the box on my intended subwoofer. At this stage it’s been about getting to know at what point to set crossover points and relatively volume from one speaker to the next. The Focal door speaker and tweeter where straight forward and testing indicated that Focal values work well. The front pair run active so have dedicated amp channels. EG , Tweeter 3500hz crossover point , running 24db / octave. Amp gain with slight cut Door midbass 150hz to 3500hz , running 24db / octave . Zero amp gain. Underseat Harman Kardon 8 inch woofers a bit harder to tune. With a boot sub I’ve found diminishing returns with getting the HK to go low for up front bass. Crossing them at 60hz to 150hz seems about right. Amp channel at +6db. But I’ve always intend to swap these out. However , I’m impressed with there power handling for an oem woofer. Have roughly 140 watts rms at 8 ohms and in the frequency range above the will go beyond the volume I’d listen too without issue. My backup Sub has been interesting ( small box 10 inch with passive radiator) , normally I would n’t overlap frequency ranges but Faser from Mobridge sent his tune file. So I tried his settings which worked really well. So 20-70hz @ 12db slope. I’ve also decided to replace the Harman Kardon subwoofers ( woofers really ) I’d tried modelling some higher end replacements conventional drivers but getting them to fit and operate between enclosure and seat rails problematic. There are plenty of aftermarket options , some will go lower , others are more accurate, and some excel in Mid bass and others aren’t as good as Harman Kardon. My shortlist with primary goal of mid bass performance of getting down to 50hz . BMW B&W option underseat woofer second had as high end option in M5 / X5 / 7 series., Focal BMW ISub ( very power efficient but highish QTS of 0.93 , 11mm Cone travel ) ESB BMW Sub 1 ( high powered, high efficiency and low QTS 0.36 18mm cone travel ) and Morel , BMWsubip82 high powered , QTS 0.57 but lowish efficiency , Cone travel not disclosed. Focals are very cost effective compared with the other two landed in NZ. ESB are twice the cost of Focals when imported. Went with importing Morels from Australia based on these being in a Mobridge powered car to great effect. If you’re looking to replace underseat woofers be your own judge but more power is required if your after a marked improvement . With QTS ratings in general the lower number is tight dry sounding bass , High values are more boomy. Numbers greater than 1.0 have trouble articulating different bass notes but do have a bass hump. Best avoided if your after bumph rather than boom.

As a minimum you'll need to give it about half an hour of full operating temperature running every 800-1000km (so about once per tank full) to regenerate the DPF. Obviously the more you can run it at at full temperature the better.

Yes...

Please only attempt to join if you own an E30 M3 and live in New Zealand. Thanks! https://www.facebook.com/groups/1324871358443487

you can also try this, while keeping the original CCC iDrive

Courtesy of Instagram. Unsure of original poster. A few captures floating around.