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Intro This is my 1989 BMW E30 coupe project. I've built cars my whole life, and this one is #68 of those I've owned. I'd spent 4 years pursuing a coupe, particularly a non-sunroof facelift version. I finally found this on Facebook and after a quick drive I bought it in December 2018. Prior to this was an E46 coupe that I ZF manual swapped - which was awesome, but plagued me with electrical headaches. So I wanted something simpler to work on, but with the same drivetrain....queue the E30! The Plan Originally it was going to be a facelift M3 body swap. After working out costs (even performing the bodywork myself), I moved to an Mtech2 goal However as this project has now cost way more than originally planned, I've subsequently sold the MTech2 kit to progress finishing it off as is and enjoy it. In a way it suits the original car better. It is / was a 318i base model, with only electric windows, a/c and pop out rear windows - a nice, simple car! I always wanted an M54B30 and ZF to go in it, so that's what's happened. Just, a little more complicatedly than expected.

Now the engine is in the hole, that largely brings me up to today, October 2019. The next big items are: Finish rust work Wire engine Install Renault Clio Mk2 brake booster Adjustables 5 stud conversion (E36 328i) Dash replacement Driveshaft hoop and seatbelt plates Install carpet Mount seats While all this is happening, I am ticking away at small jobs around the body such as replacing the rear quarter windows, prepping the new passenger door, installing an IS front lip, chrome-deleting the trim. Most of this I've documented and will upload. Items to document: E46 purple tag install Barina U Joint Reverse plug wiring Pedal install

A replacement battery section and spare wheel well were sourced, spot welds drilled out of both and everything prepped for replacement This took about a day solid - not rushing almost always means less re-work, and a tidier job.

Enjoy!

Great to see your thread, Mark. Inspirational too! Followed ?

Next up was clutch and flywheel. I'd previously used an RHD Engineering flywheel and M30 style (E28 535i) clutch in my E46 so I knew it worked. However this time for the flywheel I didn't get the super lightweight version, as the old one 'hung' at high RPM. Essentially letting the engine continue revving past when you depress the clutch. http://racehead.com.au/products-page/engine-components/bmw-lightweight-performance-flywheel-m50-m52-m54-s50-s52-s54-heavy-duty/ The clutch this time was an E28 M5 pressure plate and new 240mm clutch plate from FCP Euro (surprisingly cheap FYI). It's not a performance 2 stage or whatever, but I'm not turboing the car so this will be plenty. Also ordered new flywheel and clutch bolts.

Hmmm where'd we get to..... The above rust work took the better part of 4 months and isn't all finished yet. Being VERY much over body work, and having landed a ZF 5 speed, I started working on the driveline build. First port of call was to clean up and re-detent the gearbox. All 5 shift pins were replaced. Next up, a new throw out bearing, throw out arm, bushing and clip were ordered; along with a new slave cylinder. I'll add the pics when I find them, for now a placeholder.

The earlier post mentioned about boot-mounting the battery. So Inspector Screwdriver went looking there too, and ended up cutting the entire battery tray out (rotten in the seams). While I was there I lent on the spare wheel mount, and pushed it straight through the floor. Queue much bleeding, swearing and how the F did that happen's, I looked underneath more closely. A previous owner had managed to apply bitumen patches over rust from underneath, then sprayed with underseal. Drive it on dirt roads for a couple of kms and no one's the wiser.....apparently. Closer inspection revealed they'd done this in the boot floor also. I know some cars have bitumen sound deadening, but this stuff was repco-grade stuff, complete with what appeared to be chinese branding still visible in places. Around this time I should also mention - I checked this car over pretty thoroughly. It's not my first rodeo, so places like behind the fuse box, upper scuttle area, inner arches and lower arch areas I had been pretty thorough on. Being this far in I could only cut more out, and fix it PROPERLY. And possibly buy more whiskey.

- Stage 3 shifts are approx. 25% faster (according to their website) - Paddle response is faster (my 07 335i shifts almost as fast as my brother's F10 M5 DCT), HUGE improvement over stock - The torque limit before the TCU forces an upshift is raised in each gear - In M mode the car will never upshift on its own even when approaching/hitting redline. This could either be a good thing or a bad thing depending on the driver. I like it as in first gear with MHD the optimal shift point (if trying to go fast) is in the high 6k range while redline is at 7k. - Automatic rev-matches on downshifts in S and M mode, sounds great and feels smoother when slowing down quickly That being said, in D mode the stage 3 tune is not aggressive in the slightest. Feels very smooth and is perfect for daily driving. If I were you I would just flash straight to stage 3, which also seems to be the consensus on other forums from my research.

You would think for that price they would've put the throwing star covers on the correct way ?