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Eddie

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Posts posted by Eddie


  1. Can you move the subframe further forward if you only need "a little more space"??

    This will give you a bit more castor but may move the wheels too far forward in the arches!?!?

    Just a thought...

    yer- I looked that, but I think I will be modifying the sump


  2. Can you move the subframe further forward if you only need "a little more space"??

    This will give you a bit more castor but may move the wheels too far forward in the arches!?!?

    Just a thought...

    yer- I looked that, but I think I will be modifying the sump


  3. Isn't the E30 M40 sump an option on this motor? If so I believe it gives you more room?

    I may be wrong but isn't the steering rack on the back of the cross member on a E30?, E36 on the front

    anyone have any photos of the e30 M40 sump?


  4. The better alternative is to take out your hammer nd get stuck into the firewall. Even in my E30 I have beat on the firewall, But I want to move the lil M42 back ~95mm for weight distribution :)

    Keep up the good work, you are making solid progress.

    Thanks

    The motor is about 20-25mm further back than the m10. The 2002 has a dumb fire wall design which can make tunnel mods a real problem. Talking the a certification guy he said he was happy about the way I changed the sub frame mounts, but warned me about tunnel mods were the fire wall could be effected.


  5. Is it going to fit? I had to take to the tunnel with a hammer- not the best way. :unsure:

    The engine's not going to fit on the cross member like it did in the E36. The 2002 engine bay is to small, so it looks like the engine is going to be 55 mm further forward. Which means the sump or the cross member, or maybe both is going to have to be modified. I think I will move away from this problem and come back to it later in the week.

    For now I will work on finishing up the front cross member and control arm mounts. I will also have to install the sway bar mounts.

    Posted Image


  6. I happy with the results as the front suspension is only tacked in. The the front castor and camber is adjustable, but for its first alignment check I was just looking to see if things were in the right places, and if not was there going to be enough adjustment.


  7. The alignment came out tops- the only bad news came from the rear as the rear has a little toe out.

    Front and rear setback was excellent, as was both lateral and axle offset.

    Rear camber L-1.1 deg R-1.15 deg

    Rear toe L- 2.3mm R-3.4mm (toeing out)

    Front Camber L-1.22deg R-1.23deg

    Caster L-4.43deg R-4.11deg

    Toe L-3.1mm R-3.4mm (toeing out)


  8. So I ordered a brand new BT-50 4WD manual double cab wellside in highlight silver yesterday.

    Should be here around end of next week.

    Looking forward to the new ride. Outgoing ute is a clapped out 1995 Ford Courier with 383,000kms (of which I have done the last 150,000), so is a bit of an upgrade to say the least!

    Nice going. Good to see you went for the manual and not the 5speed auto (The auto craps out if towing alot)

    I brought a Triton a few years ago because they were the only ones happy to stand by the auto with what I was towing, other wise I would have got Ford/Mazda too.

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