*Glenn*

40 minutes ago, Olaf said:

And whatever you do, Get A PPI from a specialist independent BMW workshop, or a BMW dealer.  It's money well spent, can help you avoid a dog and go in with your eyes open.

leave the AA or VTNZ PPIs for run of the mill cars.

And to do it properly it needs to go to the Pre Purchase facility over night to carry out hot & cold checks. We will not now carry out any PPI and put our name to it on any late model Euro if we can't have it overnight to check it properly. Especially the cooling system and cold start noises. 

1 hour ago, Driftit said:

Every BMW I have driven with that motor has issues with valve stem seals.  But when it is not smoking at the lights it suites the motor well.

If you look at pictures 7 & 8 it looks like evidence it has that problem. Many other issues with these, especially the 4.8 petrol

29 minutes ago, 3pedals said:

Mainstream Audis are just fashion statements for people who don't get the art of driving.

Same applies to all the other Euros, including BMW. The A4 is on par with an E90 and a C180/C200 in the lower end range of those models

Every 5 years or 120k whichever comes first...if no receipts you must accept that its never been done and do it. Front off on these

Twice Graham on a 4 stroke providing you have a set point TDC and know the firing order

It would be better to do a leak down test

Cam belt ?? Breather & induction hoses, rocker cover gasket, rear cylinder head water housing, temp sensor, MAF, Sludging of oil pick up, front axle joints, suspension bushes..... the list goes on. Similar to any other Euro. It's knowing what to look for and when. 5w30 FS oil required. Is it turbo ? Can do an inspection and report if you  want  

Do the pads have the machined area on them, which must be perfect otherwise the new sensor will break ??... I can supply new sensors

You need to replace the progressive wear sensor and reset CBS with a proper scanner after the brakes are done to turn off the light. And it does have to be done, otherwise traction control light will also stay on with the brake warning light. The late model cars need to have this done every time pads are replaced

I would strongly suggest you get a PPI carried out by either the Dealer or an independent BMW specialist

Now that the photo upload option is now working again Chris. Will you please post photos as per the forum rules in the For Sale threads.

I don't disagree with the idea, just the poor execution of the build / mod

Looking at that info / video. I would very much doubt that this vehicle would pass a LVC in NZ. Some, maybe, alot of the work is very dodgy & unsafe in my opinion, and opinions are the same as arse holes

What charger did you use ?? AGM batteries will not charge properly with a trickle charger. They need 14.5-15 volts to charge them correctly. If the battery is more than 4-5 years old it's probably had it anyway. The smart battery system needs the correct type/ size battery to work correctly and will need registering or coding if you change the battery type/Ah . If you have done something wrong you'll need a tow truck

You should not be smelling fuel at all. I suspect it is still leaking. I suggest you take it back and get them to recheck everything.

I would say the release bearing carrier is the wrong one. There are 2 types, one is 10mm longer than the other

Fit 2nd arm & bolt. I would not use a heli coil for this repair

We have also had it occur in the workshop without load at about 1,500 -2,000 rpm. It does sound like chain rattle at times. Has been checked by dealers and independents  without resolve .Warranty  company also involved. When it breaks it might get fixed or write it off. In the mean time.... he hits the go peddle and enjoys it while he can. 

10 years old and over 100k these things become money pits. I have a X5 4.8 2007 done a 140k in the workshop at the moment which requires more than the value of the vehicle to repair. The original oil leak problems would have cost close to 1/2 the value of the vehicle. We also have another client with a 550 with exactly the same problem as yours and several well recognized repairers and a dealer can't fix. It has a warranty and the customer is resigned to drive it till it breaks.

Does it use oil? and has it been checked for valve stem seal issues?

Talk to Joe @ Eurosurgeon in Penrose

Seriously... and I don't mean to offend..... do you really think you have the skills to do this ?... If the car was mint, I'd be doing a M42 M44 motor & manual conversion not a M40

Any BMW with the engine prefex (N) as in N42, N54, N46, N62 etc having done 100k or more or over 5 years old is a money pit full stop

4 hours ago, Matth5 said:

Any of the BMW specialists should be used to doing this kind of job on a regular basis. 

The problem may be, not alot of them are willing to fit parts supplied by the owners

Do you have the center caps as well Raewyn ?