BMRBOI
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Posts posted by BMRBOI
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3 hours ago, zero said:In my opinion 12 ton is absolutely enough.
I used for e36 and e46 suspension one that I think was 6 ton or less and it was fine.
What you will need is an accessory kit which has a bunch of different sized blocks for different sized bushings, so factor that into the price.
Was it as it this one here Nathan? http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/SCA-Shop-Press-H-Frame-6000kg/214467#review-list-anchor
yep have factored in accessory kit!
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8 hours ago, *Glenn* said:I'd be looking to buy one with a wider bed than those two if money allows
Thanks Glenn, I will look into the wider bed. $400 would be my upper limit in all honesty.
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Hi team
Im considering buying a shop press to rebuild my e36/46 suspension and maybe future cars. Im based in Rotorua and I note that a company here is selling a 12t and 20t shop press.
12t press http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/auction-1352621016.htm
Would the 12t press be suitable for what I want to do or am I better off purchasing the 20t (twice the price $399 vs 203.50)?
Thanks in advance for the help,
Niroy
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Hi John
If you still have this when I come back from overseas end of May we may need to talk!
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Having this issue too!
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Hi guys
I have a e36 325i that I've taken parts from and is not required anymore. The chassis is no good for anything apart for mocking up conversions? Or hacking up.
All suspension parts are there, interior is pretty shagged, has no engine, no gearbox or exhaust.
As it sits I will take $250ono for what is shown in the photos. Or you can have it for free without wheels, mirrors and steering wheel.
Pick up from Rotorua only
Pm me for more details.
Thanks Niroy
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Hi all
$1 reserve for the m50b25 engine, please see listing http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1220328112
Was a factory manual 4 door car. Shell is no good as it has rust and torn subframe mounts. Have some other parts like lights, interior and m3 style mirrors. Will add some more photos tomorrow.
Thanks Niroy
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I have recently been purchasing from ECS Tuning. On my last order compared with Pelican parts they had better pricing and shipping.
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We have had a e46 318ti for over 3 years. Initially had to replace coils and ccv but apart from that it has been a reliable runner for about 40k. Uses oil though which I've been told to expect. Might have to touch some wood now haha.
Oh and lots of clutch shudder when hot. Worse than my track cars lightweight flywheel/heavy duty clutch combo.
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Hi team
Any information on these? I picked up a 12/1990 e36 325i manual (didn't know they made them that early) thinking it would be the getrag 250 but it is a zf. Are they stronger/same as the 250 getrag?
Cheers,
Niroy
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Thanks guys for the input.
Sunny day in Rotovegas today so spent some time diagnosing. Turns out fuse 31 keeps blowing (5amp blown fuses are hard to pick in the dark). This fuse is related to aircon pump, instrument cluster, obc, heater and EWS.
Put a new fuse in and car started right up yay... But when I went to start it again the fuse had blown and displayed same non starting issue. Through a bit of process of elimination it looks the heater valve may be at fault. Small amount of coolant weeping and when I disconnect it the fuse doesn't blow.
would have never picked the heater to be faulting the car with those symptoms.
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Hi all
Car 1996 E36 323i jap auto
The other day after driving my car and it was running fine. Parked up and went to start it again and nothing. Dash lights come up but no starter motor.
Things to note:
-can manually turn starter over
-check light is on but kind of flashes between bright and dim
- obc lights not showing and pixels kind of flashing
- dash beep not consistent
- checked key chip with lock smith and said he can still read it
- Peake scan tool says its EWS
- ecu seems dry
- tried other car batteries and still no good
Any one come across this kinda issue before or ideas where to look?
Thanks
Niroy
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Put one in my car. The coolant level low sensor wouldn't fit the whole, rang them up and said they have never come across this issue before. Brought a new Oem sensor but still same issue, had it milled out by my engineer to work. The the radiator cap thread is thin and soft also.
Seems to hold coolant though.
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Do you have the endlinks from the 318ti ones? Wouldn't they fit onto the m3 sway bar? IIRC I used a 325i 25.5mm sway bar with m3 link to strut and that works fine so you should be able to go the other way around.
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Hi allAfter nearly sitting dormant for 12 months I am looking for the final pieces to finish off my coupe.- Coupe door card plastic strip (attaches to the top) or a driver’s door card in average condition- E36 final stage resistor (same as photo)-Motorsport front bumper support panels: small one on passenger side to underside of front bumper, bumper to radiator underside panel-New Zealand new fan shroud and rubber strip which sits between radiator and headlight support panel-Motorsport rear bumper diffuser to suit twin exhaust-Both coupe seat belts-Rear window latch pieceThanks
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There was a build of the turbo set up on here. If I remember correctly he did document the dyno tune.
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If only I had the coin. Was for sale a year or so ago.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-969118451.htm
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Hi Glenn
I cannot recall the fault code off the top of my head. Comes up with something like Lambda fault. Exhaust light stays on a little longer at start up, slight hesitation when cold (gone when warm). I replaced spark plugs (plugs were pretty fouled up) thinking this could have been the issue which reduced hesitation a little. I was going to put a multimetre to it tonight.
Thanks
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Hi
As per tittle, after a Oxygen Sensor for a 1996 E36 318i m43. Not sure if they have pre and post cat sensor. Will find out tonight when jack the car up.
Thanks,
Niroy
Shop Press for Rebuilding Suspension
in Off-Topic
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Cheers guys for the input. Andrew, ill do some comparisons at lunch time with the machinery house items. Ill give some feedback too once I purchase one.